Are Sanwa RG buttons worth the premium price?

Are Sanwa RG buttons worth the premium price?

  1. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Would (You) fuck those buttons?

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      I've never fucked any of my arcade buttons, anon.

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        I fuck them now and then. Just replace them.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Can't you go be a pile of crap somewhere else?

  2. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    By the way this is a Ganker topic because these buttons were released in the 90s and are usually used to play Ganker era games.

  3. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    gone but not forgotten

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      From that site:

      Seimitsu Kogyo PS-14-GX
      Stroke to switch ON 1.57mm
      Maximum stroke 2.64mm

      Sanwa Denshi OBSF-30RG
      Stroke to switch ON 1.73mm
      Maximum stroke 2.81mm

      The difference is miniscule. I don't think anyone is going to notice a difference of 0.17mm
      The biggest difference would be the shape of the plunger.

      • 1 week ago
        Anonymous

        seimitsu buttons feel completely different

        • 1 week ago
          Anonymous

          That would be due to the amount of force needed to press the SW-68 switch that most Sanwa buttons use.

          However, in this case the switch is exactly the same between the Sanwa OBSF-30RG and the Seimitsu PS-14-GX. So the actuation force needed will be exactly the same. The only difference would be in the shape of the button plunger. The Sanwa will be a little convex whereas the Seimitsu is completely flat.

  4. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    I honestly don't know of a single English speaking human being that has ever knowingly used reed switch buttons, it's something I always wonder about when they buy all these chinc meme buttons.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      You ever meet a guy that really likes fighting games and reeks of boxed wine and cheap cigarettes?

  5. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    This site has a lot of information about buttons and switches.

    http://erwin1.blog64.fc2.com/blog-entry-3.html

  6. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Whatever you do, don't buy the translucent ones. They rattle like crazy and have a very unsatisfying sound when bottoming out.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      What changed from their usual plastic that the translucent ones that makes a different sound profile? It seemed the same for me on the outside.

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        >Those Bluetooth wireless Wii sticks were being sold for £25 13 years ago
        Now go for over £150+.

        Literally get a pit in my stomach every time I see a picture cus I was a broke teenager and couldn't get any. Should have bought fucking 5.

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          I remember buying two of them to make a bartop arcade years ago, cost me like 35 bucks. What made them good and why are they so expensive now?

          Mine ended up in the landfill somewhere like 99% of my teen stuff. I could've made so much money.

          • 2 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            No idea, they're just Madcatz sticks with garbage buttons, but I picked two up around that time for about 30 bucks from Gamestop. Swapped everything out years ago and dropped in a USB encoder

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          I too only got the Wii controller because it was really cheap since no one liked the system and retailers were desperate to get rid of them. I didn't think to get any more because I figured I got one for myself and wouldn't want more because it would have been wasteful because I couldn't afford much. However, now I realize the housing and stick are pretty good quality for just $25USD.

          >What changed from their usual plastic that the translucent ones that makes a different sound profile? It seemed the same for me on the outside.

          The plungers are comprised of three parts with some play between them as opposed to just one solid piece of plastic like in the opaque models. When fully assembled you can even twist the translucent color top cap back and forth quite a bit. So not only do they sound rattly, they feel like it too. You can try this for yourself. Take out on of these plungers like pic related, hold it by the lower white part and then hit it like you wanted to activate the button. Now do the same with an opaque model. They're fucking ass and feel and sound so unsatisfying to play on. Switching out the plungers for opaque ones was the first mod I did right after I bought a stick that came with these pre-installed because I was so disappointed with them. The housing is fine however. It's really just the way the plungers are constructed that makes them terrible. An easy fix in the end.

          Holding them in my hands again now, I have to say that I was actually too lax in my original post. The problem isn't only present when bottoming out. These buttons rattle if you so much as look at them. It gets a little better if you take the insert out from under the top cap but then you can see the little radial beam construction underneath and the loose top cap still remains somewhat annoying to me. If one really wants these for aesthetic reasons I would suggest taking them apart and carefully super glueing all the parts together. I imagine that would help quite a bit.

          I can see, it is sort of like the Cherry MX blues where there are more parts to move. I did add some foam at the bottom of each button and the cheap Madcatz housing probably dampens the sound a bit. My old ears are no longer as sensitive to the Sanwa, but I did start finding Cherry MX blues way more annoying sounding (I still lack the proper descriptive language for the sound profile) than other clicky switches so maybe I'll be more attuned to the sound if I paid more attention.

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        >What changed from their usual plastic that the translucent ones that makes a different sound profile? It seemed the same for me on the outside.

        The plungers are comprised of three parts with some play between them as opposed to just one solid piece of plastic like in the opaque models. When fully assembled you can even twist the translucent color top cap back and forth quite a bit. So not only do they sound rattly, they feel like it too. You can try this for yourself. Take out on of these plungers like pic related, hold it by the lower white part and then hit it like you wanted to activate the button. Now do the same with an opaque model. They're fucking ass and feel and sound so unsatisfying to play on. Switching out the plungers for opaque ones was the first mod I did right after I bought a stick that came with these pre-installed because I was so disappointed with them. The housing is fine however. It's really just the way the plungers are constructed that makes them terrible. An easy fix in the end.

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Holding them in my hands again now, I have to say that I was actually too lax in my original post. The problem isn't only present when bottoming out. These buttons rattle if you so much as look at them. It gets a little better if you take the insert out from under the top cap but then you can see the little radial beam construction underneath and the loose top cap still remains somewhat annoying to me. If one really wants these for aesthetic reasons I would suggest taking them apart and carefully super glueing all the parts together. I imagine that would help quite a bit.

  7. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    The simple and obvious answer is: no.
    Reason:
    They are not used by the highest level players.
    If there was an advantage to using them then the top players would be using them.
    They were experimented with years ago and most reports indicated no difference in winning or scoring, or inferior performance to the standard buttons.

    Now, is is possible the winds could shift and if someone uses them to get a big win or a world record opinions could change.
    But these buttons have been around for decades now and that hasn't happened.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Wait, am I overlooking something here? Is the RG line suppoed to be special? These aren't the regular OBSF line? If so, you don't need them OP. Regular OBSF are just fine.

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        >Is the RG line suppoed to be special?
        Yes, they have a different style of switch that is supposed to have a longer lifespan and different feel.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      what are you using them for? if fighting games then like said, nobody is using them so they're 100% not worth it if they come at a premium. for other arcade games then maybe but regular obsfs already last forever even if you are a fighting game playing gorilla so paying extra for an allegedly extended lifespan doesn't seem worth it and I'd consider going with seimitsus if you are just looking for a different retro arcade feel though that obviously requires a different panel.

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        >regular obsfs already last forever even if you are a fighting game playing gorilla
        I killed five of them in less than a year playing normally.

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          I'd triple check my button harnesses at that point and probably replace them even if I think they are good.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      You mean paying a premium to the site shilled in the youtube you watched? They're not expensive.

      >Why yes mommy, if all the cool kids were jumping off a cliff I would as well. >How could you tell
      Obviously this sort of stupidity has been around for ages, but you zoombies have taken it to a whole new level.

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        cringe post

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Sanwa's pricing is 3x the regular OBSF-30, for 4158 yen for a set of 6. Only thing more expensive is metallic and clear buttons.

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          >Sanwa's pricing is 3
          Sauce.
          >the regular OBSF-30
          lol. That's because that's very different part that simply can't be used in some cases. A bigwheel is much cheaper than a car. Only one will get you to work.

          • 2 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            https://item.rakuten.co.jp/sanwadenshi/button_001/
            https://item.rakuten.co.jp/sanwadenshi/button_008/

            >can't be used in some cases
            Name literally one

  8. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    is getting a cheap xinput compatible chink controller and gutting it to hook up buttons to it worth it? i have a hard time believing chinks could fuck up the pcb

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Not in this day and age. You can buy a cheap encoder off of ebay that will do the same thing for about ten bucks.
      >i have a hard time believing chinks could fuck up the pcb
      Some say they drop inputs but I haven't seen empirical testing.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Not in this day and age. You can buy a cheap encoder off of ebay that will do the same thing for about ten bucks.
      >i have a hard time believing chinks could fuck up the pcb
      Some say they drop inputs but I haven't seen empirical testing.

      The Brook Zero Pi has pretty much replaced the generic zero delay encoders with better QC and it's only slightly more expensive

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        That thing actually has X-input which the rando shit usually doesn't, too.

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        That thing actually has X-input which the rando shit usually doesn't, too.

        does this work with the retroboard and the brooks board that does newer systems?
        i was thinking of building a cab that supports; saturn, dreamcast, gamecube, xbox, 360, pc, etc

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous
      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Not in this day and age. You can buy a cheap encoder off of ebay that will do the same thing for about ten bucks.
        >i have a hard time believing chinks could fuck up the pcb
        Some say they drop inputs but I haven't seen empirical testing.

        The rPi pico running the GP2040 controller firmware is faster and cheaper. If you know enough to wire things for yourself, anyway.

        Buy Raspberry Pi Pico for $5US, connect to USB and it will appear as a drive, dump free GP2040 firmware on. Works on PC, Xbone and Switch, and has tons of cool features though the button remapping was still borked last time i looked.

    • 1 week ago
      Anonymous

      Not in this day and age. You can buy a cheap encoder off of ebay that will do the same thing for about ten bucks.
      >i have a hard time believing chinks could fuck up the pcb
      Some say they drop inputs but I haven't seen empirical testing.

      [...]
      The Brook Zero Pi has pretty much replaced the generic zero delay encoders with better QC and it's only slightly more expensive

      the effort you put into building or modding a stick is way more than the cost of the components -- buy the best you can, it's always going to be worth it

      my most recent sticks I built with Brook Wireless boards, they're really slick and work with every retro console over bluetooth adapters, well worth the extra cost

  9. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    I prefer Samducksa mech buttons. I've used sanwa buttons all my life but those are more satisfying and fun to use.
    Also LS-56 lever is very satisfying and fun, too bad it's kinda imprecise, you will miss DPs and other things because going from DB to DF often misses the D direction. Or in other words, going from 1 to 3 sometimes skips 2. I tried with the oversized acuator, the kowal extenders etc. Nothing worked. I wish I had a solution because the stick just feels so right. Ah well. I went back to the good old sanwa, 2lbs spring and oversized acuator.

    No I am not searching a competitive edge, just what feels the best without compromising accuracy.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      I've never had any problems with an LS-56 for anything but doing an input that requires starting at neutral from crouching, in which case I'm more likely to fuck up and get D, DB, B, instead of D, N, B or whatever.

  10. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    nothing but snake oil. a button is a button

  11. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    I'm still trying to figure out if the switches in these will mount in a normal OBSF-30 button body. Can't find a reference online.

  12. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    What's a stick that's better for SHMUPS than Fighters?

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      There isn't one. It's kind of a myth imo that there are some sticks good for shmups but not for fighters. For instance the LS-56 was installed as the default stick in Naomi Universal machines and would have been used frequently to play CVS2 and GGX.

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        I assume by GGX you mean Guilty Gear X?

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          Yes, it was a Naomi game.

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        what's your stick preference?

  13. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Play with whatever button sparks joy in you.

  14. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Aren't these just glorified keyboard keys?

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Cherry microswitches, or at least the original top quality ones were. They lasted for years of daily clicking.

  15. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Can I get a arcade stick that isn't loud and clicky as fuck? I hate all that noise.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      The short answer is yes, the long answer is kind of. As far as buttons go, just within the conventional Sanwa stuff there's the foam pads, which change the travel and make the bottom mushy but do a good job of turning that plastic smacking into a quieter thud, and the elastomer cap style which have pretty much normal travel but are a grippier material I don't love and seem to mostly turn high pitched noises into lower pitched noises rather than being massively quieter overall. Maybe in a case with less echo it would work better, I don't know. There's a bunch of other meme options with silent keyboard switches and silicon inserts and shit as well.

      Joysticks you can just flat out get non-clicking switches and only have the low pitched gate thud but the feel is different and the prices are kind of nuts. I've never bothered because ultimately the joystick isn't any louder than silenced buttons. The standard there is Hayabusa silent (I don't think you can buy them separately from a full silent Hori stick), and silent JLF high tension, but if I was buying one I'd be trying the LSQ-40.

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        I think best case scenario is optical stick and leaf buttons + foam inserts.
        Then pack the inside of your stick with foam to deaden the sound.
        All of that put together should make for a very quiet stick.

        >leaf switches for fighting games?
        Mileage may vary.

  16. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    For me... its iL

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      I use Hayabusa buttons. They're really high quality but a lot of people don't use them because it "feels" different from buttons people used in arcades.

  17. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    which DIY controllers do you guys like? is the flatbox worth making?

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Only if you ride the bus to locals because you live in a hyper urban hellhole or are a fuck up at life and fitting in your man purse or cargo shorts is a desirable feature.

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        To be clear, are you saying that it's uncomfortably small? I guess the only reason I'd want it small is so that I could print the case myself on my somewhat-small 3D printer. Do you have any others you'd rec?

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          >I guess the only reason I'd want it small is so that I could print the case myself on my somewhat-small 3D printer
          Well I guess that is a reason as well.

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          Dunno if I'd call it uncomfortably small but I printed this one out a few years ago. It's decent enough. The box has held up all this time but I kinda want to reprint it

          • 2 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            shit, lol
            https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2819864

            • 2 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              thanks

  18. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Since this is a semi related arcade stick thread I'm gonna ask:
    Is there any cheaper alternative for this board? This board and main board would cost me more than stick parts itself. I'm asking about multi system board preferably, open source

  19. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    >premium price?
    sanwa buttons are like $3-5 anon
    cheaper than a fucking mcchicken sandwich

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      You need to look up the various meanings of "premium".

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      $5 for one button is kind of expensive.

  20. 1 week ago
    Anonymous

    Just play on an actual arcade machine like a real man

    • 1 week ago
      Anonymous

      >implying

      • 1 week ago
        Anonymous

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