I'm considering moving my TV over to my little PC desk on the right side of this pic. I sat on it, and I weigh 154 lbs and it didn't collapse under my weight, and this TV is apparently 104 lbs, so it should be able to support its weight.
Honestly, I have no idea how this little wooden side table somehow managed to support this TV's weight for half a year. I kept thinking it would collapse any day.
>32
Lucky. I've got a KV-27FV16 here, also using S-video.
It probably would. Every time I changed the cables, I feared that alone would cave the table in. Never even bothered cleaning the screen. But if that tiny table can support it, then I'm sure actual steel legs can.
not that anon but its frickin impossible to find good CRT stands that dont look like shit these days
you almost have to get a corner stand if you have anything bigger than a 20"
It's a perfect height for a larger TV and its made of solid wood so it's more than sturdy enough. Plus it's simple enough that it goes with most decor.
https://i.imgur.com/e927pt6.jpg
/crt/ thread
Post yours
I don't have a picture at the moment but my favorite TV and really my end game grail is a Toshiba 36A41 I've been lucky enough to have in the family since new. It's in storage right now because I lack the space for the time being but my uncle was the original owner. I consider it the perfect TV. Curved glass shadowmask with component is exactly what I want. And Toshiba made the absolute best of the best of that type, which is why I'm constantly surprised it doesn't get as much love as Sony and JVC. If I absolutely need to I'll ditch the D-Series but I'm hoping to get enough room to keep both.
Here's that D-Series I mentioned earlier. It's a JVC AV-32D503. A couple of the capacitors went bad. I know where they are, too, but I'm too lazy to swap them out right now. It works though so that's good enough for me for the time being.
I have a Toshiba 36A41 squirreled away that blows the D-Series out of the water. In fact, this D has a Toshiba tube in it which means I have a pretty even comparison and it's no contest. I think it's just that fewer people are aware of the Toshibas.
That said, the black D-Series sets are supposedly have better build quality. Over time JVC started cheaping out on the chassis. Mine only has one S-Video port, for example, even though you can see the cutout for a second. Also don't ignore non-D JVCs. What makes the D-Series special isn't the tube but the audio. It has better speakers than non-D sets but the tubes are the same. I think a lot of the D-Series love has to do with the branding. It's easy to identify so people gravitate to it. JVC's marketing worked 20 years later.
5 months ago
Anonymous
Talking about the look of the TV
5 months ago
Anonymous
>That said, the black D-Series sets are supposedly have better build quality.
Not sure about this. If anything, most people I've talked to say you want a silver one because the black ones are prone to developing a serious fish-eye problem as they age.
I got a black D-series for free and despite endless geometry tweaking and a COMPLETE recap, the image is just warped beyond repair. I ain't complaining because it was free, but I'd never seek one out.
5 months ago
Anonymous
mine isn't like that. Not all blacks anon
5 months ago
Anonymous
Sounds like a linearity problem
https://i.imgur.com/e927pt6.jpg
/crt/ thread
Post yours
Wish I could, phone makes file size too large
Currently watching some bluray rips of old anime on mine through my 360
5 months ago
Anonymous
Best I could do
5 months ago
Anonymous
>Sounds like a linearity problem
No. The edges around the entire screen are warped, and none of the geometry settings will affect it. It's just 20 year old TV that's fricking tired. My friend's dad had a D-series that is still tucked away in his basement. We dug it out and tested it and it had the exact same issue. I did a complete recap of the deflection board and even removed the speakers just in case they were causing distortion, and nothing made a lick of difference.
It's actually such a prominent issue on the early D sets that I've read people who got one as their first curved-screen CRT being so off-put by it they swear off of curved tubes forever.
5 months ago
Anonymous
Its honestly kind of funny how the D-Series is meme'd in the CRT community but you constantly hear about wonky units. Some of that is confirmation bias because they're very common and the more of anything the more problems you'll hear about but it's still a little funny.
5 months ago
Anonymous
I mean, for how tired my set is, it's still nice-looking. I think people are just clamoring for a big name brand alternative to all the overpriced Trinitrons on the market, and the D-series fits the bill.
JVC made a good set, I'm actually a pretty big fan of the i'Arts. I owned two of them many years back and they were gorgeous, with generally better geometry than any D-series I've seen, despite the flat tube. I was actually with my friend about 20 years ago when he bought a brand new 36 inch i'Art with money from his first job. I remember he said he liked it better than the Trinitron, and it's a sentiment that is echoed by a lot of archived product reviews I've dug up. Fricker weighed like 200 lbs, though
5 months ago
Anonymous
I have i'art and d-series and the flat has really bad geometry compared to the curved
5 months ago
Anonymous
I'm over the Trinitron hype for sure. One problem is that Sony went all in on flat tubes so there are very VERY few curved Sonys with component. Plus the benefit of the aperture grille was originally a brightness thing, which may have been huge in the 70s but wasn't a problem by the time you got to the 90s and 2000s slotmasks. A lot of flat trinis end up looking gaudy in comparison, with dreadful red push.
5 months ago
Anonymous
>dreadful red push
I specifically remember this being a frequently complaint about Sony flat tubes in the early 2000s, and one of the biggest reasons many consumer reviews said JVC's flat tubes were a better buy.
5 months ago
Anonymous
>Sounds like a linearity problem
No. The edges around the entire screen are warped, and none of the geometry settings will affect it. It's just 20 year old TV that's fricking tired. My friend's dad had a D-series that is still tucked away in his basement. We dug it out and tested it and it had the exact same issue. I did a complete recap of the deflection board and even removed the speakers just in case they were causing distortion, and nothing made a lick of difference.
It's actually such a prominent issue on the early D sets that I've read people who got one as their first curved-screen CRT being so off-put by it they swear off of curved tubes forever.
I've only owned this single one and luckily I have no fisheye problem. It has pretty bad focus in the corners though. It was the easiest and most recognizable curved CRT with component inputs to look for
5 months ago
Anonymous
This just requires adjusting the focus pot with minute adjustments
5 months ago
Anonymous
doesn't fix it, I've tried
5 months ago
Anonymous
what about a recap? i have the same problem
5 months ago
Anonymous
I have blurry edges as well as a fish-eye issue. I did a complete recap of the set. Didn't fix anything.
5 months ago
Anonymous
I'm glad you got a winner. They're not bad TVs at all. It's just that they're hyped to shit to the detriment of other brands that at least as good.
5 months ago
Anonymous
stop creating ficitonal situations in your head to get mad about anon. theres no "detriment to other brands".
5 months ago
Anonymous
How often do you hear about Panasonic or Sanyo? Those are great but nobody talks about them.
5 months ago
Anonymous
Neither of those use their own tubes anon
5 months ago
Anonymous
Neither does JVC. It's weird that the D-Series gets a unique amount of attention.
5 months ago
Anonymous
Well my grundig here
Best I could do
has a Thomson tube and it’s super sharp, I heard that the JVC’s had that and Toshibas so I assumed they were good
5 months ago
Anonymous
Panasonic and Sanyo don't sell CRTs anymore anon
5 months ago
Anonymous
>What makes the D-Series special isn't the tube but the audio.
Lol, that's dumb. Why would you accept a shitty tube just because it comes with good speakers when any random bookshelf speakers and an audio receiver from a flea market would be a thousand times better?
5 months ago
Anonymous
because it's not true and anon is making shit up because its turning into a contrarian circle jerk since he sees jvc as too popular. People look for d-series because they are curved with component and easy to find.
5 months ago
Anonymous
Back when these were new TVs were such a mature technology that manufacturers had to come up with ways of making their products look better than anyone else's. That involved improved side mounted speakers and other features that don't really matter anymore like picture-in-picture. The tubes were often identical though across a range of product lines.
The D-Series is fricked up for sure. It's got some bad caps I haven't gotten around to fixing.
My D-series looks better than that. That looks lower TVL
Interested in seeing it. Like I said, this is what the thing looked like right from Best Buy. I haven't fiddled with it at all because of where it is. Just getting that one picture was a production. It also looks a lot better in person. I have no idea how to take a picture of a CRT and not make it look like garbage. Even the D-Series doesn't look THAT bad in person. I'm using an iPhone. You're basically seeing both TVs in the worst possible conditions.
5 months ago
Anonymous
5 months ago
Anonymous
Do you know what tube is in yours? JVC used a shit ton of manufacturers.
The popularity of BVMs for retro gaming is nonsensical. What they do to a 240p RGB image is going in the opposite direction of one of the biggest reasons people want to use in the first place: seeing obviously square dot graphics (I avoid using the word pixels here because it triggers autists).
For years 240p120 mode has been considered an inferior substitute for a real 240p60 display. But that's about what you're going to be looking at with a BVM, minus the extra ghosting effect. That's how thick your black lines are going to be.
To me BVMs are a meme for gays who want one because they are "the best". But that "best" was in a totally different context in totally different industries than retro gaming.
Somewhat ironically a BVM is going to be one of the easiest CRTs to simulate with a shader. The newest generations of high refresh rate OLEDs combined with shaders should be *very* competitive with a BVM in apppearance.
BVMs look fine at appropriate viewing distance. They are memes, but the huge black lines disappear when you sit back. Some of my giant CRTs have a similar issue when you get too close even at 400 TVL
The funny thing about PVMs and BVMs is that retro gaming is arguably not what they're best for. They exist to display a broadcast image with enough precision that a production staff can know exactly what's being displayed and make adjustments. Watching an actual movie on those things is what they'd be best for.
5 months ago
Anonymous
I'm not sure. It's a black 32 inch D-series. I haven't opened it up before.
5 months ago
Anonymous
>Watching an actual movie on those things is what they'd be best for.
I use mine for that, too. But I think it's silly to infer that a monitor--or any piece of equipment--should only be used for whatever it's "best" for.
Here's that D-Series I mentioned earlier. It's a JVC AV-32D503. A couple of the capacitors went bad. I know where they are, too, but I'm too lazy to swap them out right now. It works though so that's good enough for me for the time being.
I have a Toshiba 36A41 squirreled away that blows the D-Series out of the water. In fact, this D has a Toshiba tube in it which means I have a pretty even comparison and it's no contest. I think it's just that fewer people are aware of the Toshibas.
That said, the black D-Series sets are supposedly have better build quality. Over time JVC started cheaping out on the chassis. Mine only has one S-Video port, for example, even though you can see the cutout for a second. Also don't ignore non-D JVCs. What makes the D-Series special isn't the tube but the audio. It has better speakers than non-D sets but the tubes are the same. I think a lot of the D-Series love has to do with the branding. It's easy to identify so people gravitate to it. JVC's marketing worked 20 years later.
Here's that Toshiba 36A41 I was talking about. Excuse the photography, I don't really know how to take a picture of a CRT properly and make it look right. What I can say is my uncle is the original owner. I actually helped him pick it up from Best Buy way back in 2001. What you're seeing here is factory settings. I can not only guarantee the service menu has never been touched, I don't even thing the regular menu has been. My family was never particular about TVs. As long as it got a picture that was always good enough.
I use ikea kallax with some drill-on furniture feet I bought off of amazon. I also bought these shelf dividers off of etsy (because the official ikea dividers are fricking impossible to buy) and have most of my consoles tucked into them. Except the original Xbox, thing is too fricking fat to get into the shelf with the dividers on.
consider: they sell project boards at home depot and lowes of all manner of sizes, as well as metal pipes and fittings but also beams such as 2x4 lumber. this sounds crazy, but you might be able to devise a way to fasten some of these things together to create some kind of platform that could bear weight.
despite my sarcasm, i actually don't encourage anyone to do something fricking dumb like pay money for an ancient CRT and actually keep it in your home. I grew up with them. they're bad. trust.
And a shot of my little game corner. This room is cold as frick in the winter, but that just makes it all the more cozy. Nothing warms the heart like huddling in a blanket around the soft glow of the tube.
I upgraded. But true rumble is still mostly a product of the subwoofer. Best 20 bucks I ever spent.
In my research of arcade monitor specifications I've been looking for any information to allow them to be compared in terms of TVL ratings to consumer television and video monitors.
See what you think of my math.
But this 675 is across the whole width of the display. To measure TVL you only measure across the width an amount equal to the height of the viewable display space.
That is quoted in the manual to be 405mm.
675 / 540 = 1.25 dots per mm
405 * 1.25 = 506 dots
That would suggest 506 TVL. However, I strongly suspect it would be lower due to the lines blurring together at that fine of a test pattern if displayed.
You can have some fun with this with a PC CRT.
I have a PC CRT which has a shadow mask with a dot pitch of 0.28mm
The viewable screen size is 385 x 290 mm.
That equates to a TVL rating of roughly 1036 TVL. Or just round it down to 1000.
However, you can easily display a video game in a window on this monitor.
By setting a low resolution and shrinking the window but maintaining a 1:1 pixel mapping in software you can effectively lower the visible TVL rating because as the screen becomes smaller the dot pitch becomes relatively coarser in comparison.
So working backwards to achieve a 500 TVL rating you would need to set a window size of 187 x 140 mm while maintaining a 1:1 pixel mapping. By setting a PC monitor to 640x480 mode this can usually be accomplished.
I ordered a second pair of these for $42 for a setup corner I have. I want to use one set for a 13" Toshiba CRT for NES, Genesis and PC Engine games and the second set for a PC Monitor for Dreamcast games for VGA goodness.
Yeah a used PC CRT is great for that. I used to have a 19-inch Dell I got for free because it had a smashed casing. It burned out after a few years and I didn't care to fix it, but it was definitely great for watching old 4:3 SD content, especially anime.
But to answer your question, I'd lean toward the Viewsonic just from personal experience and memory, but the real answer is to take whichever is in better shape after 20+ years on this godforsaken earth.
slot mask? and doubtful I live in Raleigh, NC i've looked everywhere here, I mainly want a CRT monitor though cause the high pitch noise of TVs really fricks with my tinnitus.
My main monitor has been down for a while, but I finally got it fixed and have been shaking off the cobwebs with my umpteenth FF7 playthrough. These pre-rendered backgrounds are just peak soul.
Also kinda getting me hyped for part two of the remake. Not that I think it's amazing or anything, but I do enjoy seeing them extrapolate fully 3D environments from these 25-year-old renders, even if they are less soulful.
>i was thinking of starting with 6 tho.. hm.
If you have the patience, try 6 before 7. I think it's worth it, and gives you some added perspective on just how much of a big deal 7 was when it came out.
And a shot of my little game corner. This room is cold as frick in the winter, but that just makes it all the more cozy. Nothing warms the heart like huddling in a blanket around the soft glow of the tube.
I do. It's just an old house, and that room is actually a converted sunroom with a frickton of ancient windows so it's kind of drafty. But I like it because it's the last room in the house that hasn't been renovated since the 70s so it has wood paneling and is generally very comfy. Also I can crank the volume and not disturb my wife as much.
You have a heater but i guess its not stronk enough
I just use the heater to take the chill off when it's super cold. If I leave it running, it'll make it quite toasty, but I prefer a slight chill. Sometimes my kot comes to help warm me up, too.
lol no. She actually assumed I was going to set up the CRT in the living room when we moved in together. I decided myself to put it in the sunroom because of the wood paneling and because I like the privacy. Of course, my setup was much smaller back then, before I added the chunky amp, equalizer, bigger speakers, subwoofer, etc.
Also I don't think she expected it to be as loud as it is, lol. One time I was playing FF7 and I cast Beta and the whole fricking house vibrated. She thought the water heater was getting ready to explode or something.
>the whole fricking house vibrated. >those dinky speakers
doubt. but at least you're not completely audiocucked
5 months ago
Anonymous
I upgraded. But true rumble is still mostly a product of the subwoofer. Best 20 bucks I ever spent.
5 months ago
Anonymous
>fell for the pvmeme
soulless
5 months ago
Anonymous
I have three different CRTs that I swap out as the situation demands. I'm not going to pretend that the PVM isn't the best, though.
5 months ago
Anonymous
my other is a 27" JVC that I got with the intention of using for 6th gen games because I think fully 3D environments do benefit from more screen real estate, but to be quite honest, 480i content still looks so much better on the PVM that I'm fine with just scooting my chair closer.
5 months ago
Anonymous
Sour grapes.
5 months ago
Anonymous
P/BVMs are fun but a 28" consumer TV is better then a 20" PVM, size matters most.
Im glad I have a 28" PVM
5 months ago
Anonymous
>size matters most.
it's funny that you used an image with exaggerated pixels which would actually objectively look better on a smaller tube
5 months ago
Anonymous
Still all depends on the distance from the screen and the TVL.
5 months ago
Anonymous
a 20 inch PVM will have higher TVL than a 32 inch consumer set... it would look even more "pixely"
5 months ago
Anonymous
CRTs don't have pixels, moron.
>just sit closer
nah.
Bigger size allows you to sit more comfortably and bigger tubes are generally sharper and more impressive.
There is a reason the bigger TVs were alot more expensive back in the day, everyone wanted a big one
>bigger tubes are generally sharper
objectively wrong >There is a reason the bigger TVs were alot more expensive back in the day, everyone wanted a big one
Which has nothing to do with quality of picture. Thanks for proving that you know jack shit about any of this. Consumers are morons.
5 months ago
Anonymous
>CRTs don't have pixels, moron.
I never claimed they did? The art style in
P/BVMs are fun but a 28" consumer TV is better then a 20" PVM, size matters most.
Im glad I have a 28" PVM
is pixely.
I was replying to
>size matters most.
it's funny that you used an image with exaggerated pixels which would actually objectively look better on a smaller tube
5 months ago
Anonymous
>objectively wrong
Majority of smaller tubes will have lower TVL too. So yeah, objectively right. Nobody was specifically talking about higher TVL PVMs or related, but tubes in general.
5 months ago
Anonymous
Except a bigger or smaller size literally makes the image look sharper to a greater degree than the effect of more or less TVL. The exact same model of set in two different sizes will ALWAYS look sharper when it's smaller.
5 months ago
Anonymous
Depends what tubes it uses, just because it's the same model doesn't even mean the tubes are from the same manufacturer. Mostly brands that make their own tubes stick to their own tubes, i.e. Sony. But even then it depends on size difference and TVL, it's not always.
5 months ago
Anonymous
TVL is something of a farce. It really only matters when distinguishing between monitor types, like a consumer versus professional. Within a class though? It's largely an illusion. Not only did manufacturers lie, the technology was very mature by the 90s and 2000s. 90% of the image quality is the chassis, not the tube.
5 months ago
Anonymous
>It's largely an illusion.
You clearly never owned a large collection of consumer tubes.
Even with PVMs the same size, TVL makes a big difference.
TVL and pitch play a huge role even within a class, doesn't matter what type of mask/grille it uses or if it's a TV, PVM, VGA monitor, etc.
>90% of the image quality is the chassis, not the tube.
No. Other way around and chassis mostly even plays a role only in professional or high end monitors.
Also I don't know what you're on about with manufacturers lying, TVL can easily be measured yourself.
Don't know if you're trolling or...
5 months ago
Anonymous
>You clearly never owned a large collection of consumer tubes.
Don't make assumptions. At far edges, sure, it makes a difference. But my point is that most of the conversation about TVL isn't at those edges. You see people arguing TVL between JVC and Samsung and at that point the differences, to whatever extent they exist, is pretty low on the list of things that are going to actually affect the picture quality. Again, the chassis makes more of a difference within a range. It's why a Toshiba tube in a JVC D-Series will look noticeably worse than the same tube in a Toshiba A Series. Tubes are pretty "dumb." The electronics driving it has waaaaay more sway over what the image looks like than the TVL. I'd argue even the type of mask matters more. Unless, again, it's at the far edges. But you're not going to find 800-1000 TVL tubes in a consumer chassis anyway. I think one of the most common example of what I'm talking about is the M tube you can find in some 32" JVCs. Yes, they look a little different but the effect is minimal compared to the weight people give to it.
Personally I'm interested in that universal chassis RetroRGB talked about a while back. It's in early development but if it pans out then you'll be able to drop in whatever tube you want and have a multisync monitor with every input under the sun. At that point even "low" TVL tubes will look fantastic.
5 months ago
Anonymous
>I'd argue even the type of mask matters more
Which is part of the tube.
>But you're not going to find 800-1000 TVL tubes in a consumer chassis anyway.
Got a 800 TVL (verified) consumer 15kHz monitor right here, not even a PVM.
5 months ago
Anonymous
>Got a 800 TVL (verified) consumer 15kHz monitor right here, not even a PVM.
What is it? Are you talking a computer monitor? I'm talking TVs.
5 months ago
Anonymous
>I'm talking TVs.
Ah okay, I thought you meant consumer hardware in general.
5 months ago
Anonymous
Ah, no. You're right in the larger conversation that TVL "matters." I'm just talking in the very specific niche of consumer TVs where people argue TVL. You can also lump arcade monitors in there, too, which are often consumer grade. Once you get into computer monitors, professional monitors, etc. things change. But at the same time, the whole display "changed" because it's built for a different purpose. The gist of what I'm saying is TVL doesn't matter that much in some specific contexts where it comes up.
5 months ago
Anonymous
>The gist of what I'm saying is TVL doesn't matter that much in some specific contexts where it comes up.
Yeah that's true.
5 months ago
Anonymous
>universal chassis
the open-source crt chassis? hasn't that been in early development for years now? is anyone actually working on it?
5 months ago
Anonymous
I think so. I haven't heard anything new but hopefully it's making progress behind the scenes. You always have somebody showing up asking about how possible it is to make new CRTs. But not only is that impossible, it's not even necessary. We have plenty of tubes. They're just trapped in garbage sets nobody wants. Imagine how awesome it would be if you could pick up a composite-only bottom of the barrel RCA, yank out the tube, and drop it in a custom chassis that turns it into a multisync beast. I know that's VERY optimistic but a man can dream.
5 months ago
Anonymous
>Also I don't know what you're on about with manufacturers lying, TVL can easily be measured yourself.
JVC routinely claimed it's D-Series sets were 800TVL, which is a lie. Or at least VERY deceptive.
5 months ago
Anonymous
>Don't know if you're trolling or...
Stop it.
5 months ago
Anonymous
The smaller size making the image look sharper is a subjective matter.
It is a matter of objective fact that the same slot pitch was used on tubes of different sizes. For example 25" and 29" arcade monitors have both used a .8mm center pitch. But on the 29" monitor this means the .8mm is a relatively finer pitch than it is on the 25" monitor.
5 months ago
Anonymous
Except a bigger or smaller size literally makes the image look sharper to a greater degree than the effect of more or less TVL. The exact same model of set in two different sizes will ALWAYS look sharper when it's smaller.
I was talking about actual sharpness not percieved sharpness.
Yes bigger tubes at the same resolution will look less sharp if you sit at the same distance, but you get the luxury of not having to sit too close and having a bigger image.
I actually have a 9" PVM lying around and let me tell you I would never use that over a 20" consumer TV.
Bigger is better.
5 months ago
Anonymous
>a 20 inch PVM will have higher TVL than a 32 inch consumer set
Not always. The older PVMs had ratings of 350 to 560 TVL and there have been various premium grade 32" consumer televisions which surpassed that.
5 months ago
Anonymous
Small pvms aren't worth it. I sold mine.
5 months ago
Anonymous
The only professional monitor I'd actually want is an XM29. But unlike PVMs those are legitimately rare and I've never seen one in person.
5 months ago
Anonymous
Arcade cabinets didn't have PVMs in them. Anyone who prefers authenticity goes with consumer slotmasks. Frick off with that shit.
5 months ago
Anonymous
That looks extremely comfy
5 months ago
Anonymous
It is. It's actually theraputic to me and I don't realize it. Sometimes I'll go several months without using it because of my monitor needing repairs or something, and the depression really starts to settle in.
I have 4 CRTs that don't work properly due to power failures.
1 was part of my main rig that no longer powers on
2 are ViewSonic PC monitors, 1 flat out doesn't turn on and the other "blinks"
1 will randomly turn itself on or off whenever its plugged in
I think I'm starting to regret collecting these things, bros.
Part of the territory, sadly. Power supply issues are fairly straightforward, though. If you can find maintenance manuals for any of your specific monitors, you'd be surprised how often OEM parts are availabe on ebay. I basically have search alerts for almost any kind of PVM parts, which I will buy and stockpile immediately.
P/BVMs are fun but a 28" consumer TV is better then a 20" PVM, size matters most.
Im glad I have a 28" PVM
>size matters most.
Unless you just... sit closer. The only way size matters is if you regularly do multiplayer stuff with friends. I have a friend coming over tonight to play some stuff, actually, and I usually switch out to my 27" consumer model for that, but we've played on the 20 just fine.
5 months ago
Anonymous
>just sit closer
nah.
Bigger size allows you to sit more comfortably and bigger tubes are generally sharper and more impressive.
There is a reason the bigger TVs were alot more expensive back in the day, everyone wanted a big one
I feel like I remember seeing daytime TV commercials for that heater. Trying to sell it to all the eternally-cold grandmas as they watched their stories.
My CRT monitor is making noise every five minutes or so. How the frick do I stop that from happening? It's driving me insane. Model is an eMachines Eview 15P
No. This is just like an experiment setup i put up. To test brightness of games. And it is different. My other tvs are darker.
Cant see in some games on the other tv.
I have 4 CRTs that don't work properly due to power failures.
1 was part of my main rig that no longer powers on
2 are ViewSonic PC monitors, 1 flat out doesn't turn on and the other "blinks"
1 will randomly turn itself on or off whenever its plugged in
I think I'm starting to regret collecting these things, bros.
>muh carbs
they're fine once in a while
it's the inflammation causing foods 24/7 that caused people to gain weight weight
glyphosate exposure
s0ŷbêâńź in literally everything
its not food, if people are too moronic to not kill themselves with the "food" they eat on a daily basis then give up and move on
beef, eggs, non-GMO sourdough bread, local tortillas etc
people are lazy morons
would you rather use a trinitron that only has s-video or a shadow/slot mask with component? (particularly for 6th gen consoles)
Not enough information here for me to make the decision.
Given best case scenarios on both sides I take the trinitron.
same, atleast the sony you can easily resell +will be pretty reliable/made in japan usually
s-video is slept on but its the biggest jump from rf/composite without homosexual rgb mods aka ruining vintage hardware
I don’t know how to organize my setup. Should I put my 27” consoomer trinitron and my 20” pvm side by side on a tv stand? Or should I put my 20” pvm on the desk next to my pc crt?
picked up this goofy and fairly useless nugget today at my regular thrifting spot. probably should have passed on it but i can't resist mini CRTs when i run across them in the wild
>It's a massive service cap with beach towel sized safari flaps in the back.
Just now realizing there was barely any reason to transfer Suikoden I and II data into III
Toshibas are better. Mark my words, JVCs are good reliable sets that are plentiful enough that you won't go wrong. But Toshiba A Series kick the shit out of them.
Really,I have a Toshiba. Don't know if that's an A series though. I started to go down the rabbit hole of collecting CRTs. I ha e a 20" jvc d series too. This Toshiba is just so nice because it's 27"
The tube seems a little dim on this one compared to other sets but it's still quite nice. It has a lot of good inputs on the back. Many of my consoles go through scart rgb to component.
They're curved glass slotmask consumer TVs with component. That makes them very similar to the kind of tubes found in arcade cabinets. They're also often free because there's less demand for non-Sony TVs. That said, JVC didn't make their own tubes so it's a lottery what you'll get inside. They sourced tubes from a good half dozen manufacturers over the years. Another downside is the build quality of the chassis can sometimes leave something to be desired. They've been known to suffer capacitor plague.
It's a perfect height for a larger TV and its made of solid wood so it's more than sturdy enough. Plus it's simple enough that it goes with most decor.
[...]
I don't have a picture at the moment but my favorite TV and really my end game grail is a Toshiba 36A41 I've been lucky enough to have in the family since new. It's in storage right now because I lack the space for the time being but my uncle was the original owner. I consider it the perfect TV. Curved glass shadowmask with component is exactly what I want. And Toshiba made the absolute best of the best of that type, which is why I'm constantly surprised it doesn't get as much love as Sony and JVC. If I absolutely need to I'll ditch the D-Series but I'm hoping to get enough room to keep both.
If you want a JVC I HIGHLY suggest looking for a Toshiba A series instead. They're the same type of TV except better. Just look for a true Toshiba rather than an Orion. Basically almost any TV pre-2001 and 32"-36" from about 2001 through 2004. I could be wrong by a year or two but that's the gist. Orion gradually started making more and more of Toshiba branded sets as time went on.
>It's a massive service cap with beach towel sized safari flaps in the back.
Just now realizing there was barely any reason to transfer Suikoden I and II data into III
This guy here is rocking a Trueshiba A Series. A+ grail set.
>They're also often free because there's less demand for non-Sony TVs.
Less and less now that they are being evangelized here and on reddit. Let's agree not to tell them about the Sanyos
Talking about TV specs/ searching out specific models is kinda pointless.
Aslong as you dont get some shitty noname brand and the TV is the right size its gonna be good, Panasonic JVC Phillips sony all excellent
I just got this 25C-S50 yesterday but I was wondering if anyone could help? S-Video works fine I get an image but when it comes to composite I get not signal or barely any depending on the console. You can faintly see the neo geo cd logo to the left of the screen.
are you able to switch between video 1 and 2? if not, maybe you need a remote. if yes, is the s-video unplugged?
yeah i can between 1 & 2 it automatically detects the input
Anyways s-video looks good enough, it’s probably just a resistor or something that go blown the frick out who knows.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?si=8OOBqP2TNPzwzMFj&v=OgI8ZfxEgVc
I don’t think the setting would change anything; treble, bass, balance, soft tone, clear tone.
those are the only settings the tv has
[...]
yeah i can between 1 & 2 it automatically detects the input
Anyways s-video looks good enough, it’s probably just a resistor or something that go blown the frick out who knows.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?si=8OOBqP2TNPzwzMFj&v=OgI8ZfxEgVc
Here is OoT on component from my Wii on that Sanyo.
>They're also often free because there's less demand for non-Sony TVs.
Less and less now that they are being evangelized here and on reddit. Let's agree not to tell them about the Sanyos
This pic right here is why we don't talk about the Sanyos.
(until I get mine)
5 months ago
Anonymous
Because it looks pretty? I kind of think most of mine all look the same in terms of niceness, i.e. that Sanyo, a Panasonic ct-27d10b and my JVC 27" I'Art.
5 months ago
Anonymous
The difference is the JVC I'Art is a well known brand at this point and will fetch a premium price. Same would go for anything Panasonic because that was a historically premium brand up there with Sony.
how bad is having a high contrast on crt/color degradation over time. ive heard its bad so scared to put mine above like 1/4 but how bad actually is it?
double brightness quadrouple the wear in general.
But keeping a crt so dimm it looks bad is also stupid
find a balance.
BTW low contrast will only make the tube last longer, the flyback or something could still shit itself and kill the entire set
Absolutely worth it. Can't go wrong with late 90s Trinitrons. I've never had an X1, but I've got both X2 and X5 and they're great.
Here's the service manual by the way:
https://archive.org/details/manual_KV29X1_SM_SONY_EN
>the manual literally shows everything >from taking it apart and physically adjusting geometry and how to do it >to accessing service menu and what all the options do >it even includes schematics
Why can't modern manuals be like that
Service manuals were meant for professional technicians, if you had a third-party repair shop you could buy them from the manufacturer, but that practice has mostly died down over time.
Manufacturers don't want you to fix your shit now, most devices are made to be one-time only. Once something dies you have to buy a new one. Even when you send back a faulty appliance to be fixed under warranty, most of the time they just send you a new one, at best just swap out the bad module. There's barely any real "fixing" going on now.
That's why you don't see many service manuals for newer hardware. Third party repair shops are mostly gone, too.
I often watch a guy on YT repairing various audio equipment of all ages, mainly amps, CD players, etc. He's recorded a few hundred episodes until now. Everything up to the early 2000s is more or less easily fixable, has a service manual or at least schematics available. After that? He has to guess and use his experience to trace the signal path manually and find the faults that need fixing.
The parts are mostly tiny SMD components, often mounted on multi-layer PCBs, too. good luck repairing a modern PC motherboard, for example. All of this contributes to a lot of work and costs that make it just not worth it in the long run. Easier to swap in a new module than fix the existing one. And you hardly need a complicated service manual for that.
That's what I heard before I got mine, and I wish I didn't listen. You absolutely can go wrong with them. I have an X5 stashed away, not sure what I should do with it. Corner convergence is absolutely fricked, especially in the top left, and the plastic is getting really brittle. What you should be doing is thoroughly inspecting every CRT you get, and not just think "well it's a 90s Sony, it's gotta be good", like I had.
It has to do with a very specific timespan of Sony CRT's, the mid 90's black curved trinitrons. Then again, I have a 20" '95 trinny that's doing just fine.
I am comfortable with taking them apart, but working on a running CRT is where I draw a line. And it's probably not worth the effort anyway, since the set has over 30k hours
Stop being a pussy. Unless you're trying to harm yourself, you'll be fine, even then you could just use electrical gloves. The only thing you would have to do is push a plastic band with a magnet on the end under the yoke. Not rocket science.
With CRTs being as old as they are its always a gamble no matter what. You're going to find a turkey every now and then regardless of the make and model.
Nice set up you got there. Very clean and good cable management. I too run a lot of my games through my stereo receiver. The stereo separation and bass from a Model 1 Genesis in particular sounds incredible
Despite having nothing to do with each other, playing FFs in order is a great experience because you witness how each idea first formed and then got refined later on. The games all build on each other in some pretty clever ways, both mechanically and in storytelling and plot structure. Each game is kind of like an answer to the previous ones. It makes you appreciate what each one does on a deeper level.
I hate this wire rack. I’d like to move to something that can hold all the consoles, but also hide them except when in use without having to reconnect them.
It's really cool and I have some MVS games, but the mvs to aes adapters are like $150 at least and I've been hearing about rotten traces. There is an AES for like $600 on ebay that has the unibios installed on it, but still I'm left without an mvs adapter. I would get an mvs, but I don't know a good place to buy one.
the seller on ebay in texas seems reliable
mvs-1c , i submitted a reasonable offer and he accepted
the magic adapters are quirky / have issues (and are comically expensive)
+i have been hearing certain fluffy bootlegs dont work with it properly
the aes 161 is cheaper but has caveats as well- some have glitches, some dont have credits at the end, some cant be beaten (piracy loop) , for what it is its fine but i would get a custom cart from acrade projects forum with the complete library instead for a bit more lunchmoney
$120 or so
but I lived reasonably close for shipping
he might've sent me the offer to be honest just added it to your watchlist for a while and see if if he sent you some shieeet
is really like to own an MVS cabinet, but probably wouldn’t want to go down the money pit that would be getting one fixed up to look nice and possibly replace the tube with one that isn’t terribly worn.
used entertainment center with doors
doesn't even technically need to have a back on it you could use posters or whatever and cut tiny slits holes for cabling
this. I had a chance to buy them cheap years ago. Now every crt I see on craigslist or ebay is massively inflated prices. Even the shitty consumer sony are asking $200+ or something ridiculous. You still find free crts if you look hard enough but most of them are in poor condition. Craigslist is a scam.
I recognize that listing, in your's and my area there are still very nice CRT's you could go out and get if you're willing to go on a little 2 hour drive. Not ideal, but driving long distances for meaningless things is American culture.
That simply isn't true. The picture I posted is about as shitty and low-end as it gets. A supermarket brand 14" VHS combo unit. I guess maybe if you're from some slav shithole or something they might have sold models without RGB SCART, but not here.
5 months ago
Anonymous
I've have and have had several of Spanish and German region models of low end CRTs form a few manufacturers and none of them have RGB over SCART. RGB isn't as universal with SCART as people always claim.
Even with higher end consumer models, like black Trinitrons that have several SCART inputs, not all the inputs support RGB either.
5 months ago
Anonymous
tons of tvs that used SCART connectors didnt have rgb
>I had a chance to buy them cheap years ago.
I have been following CRT prices since 2006 and I don't recall any time I've ever seen BVMs dip into what I'd call cheap. The lowest I ever saw the 20" and bigger ones was maybe $300.
The popularity of BVMs for retro gaming is nonsensical. What they do to a 240p RGB image is going in the opposite direction of one of the biggest reasons people want to use in the first place: seeing obviously square dot graphics (I avoid using the word pixels here because it triggers autists).
For years 240p120 mode has been considered an inferior substitute for a real 240p60 display. But that's about what you're going to be looking at with a BVM, minus the extra ghosting effect. That's how thick your black lines are going to be.
To me BVMs are a meme for gays who want one because they are "the best". But that "best" was in a totally different context in totally different industries than retro gaming.
Somewhat ironically a BVM is going to be one of the easiest CRTs to simulate with a shader. The newest generations of high refresh rate OLEDs combined with shaders should be *very* competitive with a BVM in apppearance.
BVMs look fine at appropriate viewing distance. They are memes, but the huge black lines disappear when you sit back. Some of my giant CRTs have a similar issue when you get too close even at 400 TVL
quit being moronic. The lines disappear at normal viewing distance. You aren't supposed to play 1 foot away.
5 months ago
Anonymous
Depends on the resolution. I have a "hi-res", 20'' PVM with a resolution of 900 TVL and sit about 2 feet from the screen. At this distance, the lines are clearly visible (I like seeing them so it isn't an issue). In order for the lines to become indistinguishable, I would have to move back to at least 10 feet, which is hardly ideal for a 20'' screen.
Okay, real talk now. Who has actually played for at least a couple of minutes on a Sony BVM, both in 240p and 480i? I don't care about theoretical ramblings, screen photos, or YouTube videos. Does anyone here actually see those monitors in person, and have an opinion one way or the other?
I've played 240p, 480i, and 480p content on my BVM and PVM. Are you asking which signal looks better? Both look good but the most noticeable difference is the flicker of the 480i image. At the end of the day, it doesn't really matter what I throw at these monitors - games just look damn frickin' good on them.
5 months ago
Anonymous
>games just look damn frickin' good on them.
The thing is, that's mostly just because they are aperture grille CRTs, not really because they are a PVM.
5 months ago
Anonymous
That plus the high TVL, yeah. I prefer aperture grille tubes, for sure. Got a diamondtron for the PC as well.
5 months ago
Anonymous
I had a BVM that I sold years ago because the prices have gotten so high and I didn't think the difference was worth it. I thought it looked better than anything I've played games on or watched SD content with. But in the end I'm looking at low res content so the extra high TVL felt superfluous
I have played for hundreds of hours on real PVMs of various types and on Sony aperture grille type PC CRT monitors in 240p120 mode which strongly resembles a BVM's image.
So what do you want to know?
I'll tell you right off they are insanely overrated.
Thanks for the replies. Basically, BVMs get insane hype in some circles, and the price sure as hell reflects that - incredibly expensive and hard to get. I'm not looking to pay that much obviously, but if I someday, somehow got the opportunity to pick one up for semi-cheap, I wanted to know how they are beforehand, from someone who actually used them and is not a moronic redditor, who only plays his Mario in 240p. I own two consumer TVs and a 600TVL PVM, the PVM looks great, but it does have noticeably more flicker on 480i. I assume that on BVMs you even start to see scan lines on 480i, due to how high the resolution is?
5 months ago
Anonymous
On my 900 TVLer, yes, the lines are clearly visible at 480i.
5 months ago
Anonymous
600 TVL PVM is a much better retro gaming display than any BVM ever made imo.
5 months ago
Anonymous
I had a BVM that I sold years ago because the prices have gotten so high and I didn't think the difference was worth it. I thought it looked better than anything I've played games on or watched SD content with. But in the end I'm looking at low res content so the extra high TVL felt superfluous
I have played for hundreds of hours on real PVMs of various types and on Sony aperture grille type PC CRT monitors in 240p120 mode which strongly resembles a BVM's image.
So what do you want to know?
I'll tell you right off they are insanely overrated.
One thing I forgot, anyone tried PS1 games on a BVM via composite? I'm curious what that looks like, compared to RGB
5 months ago
Anonymous
It looks really good actually. You get the typical color artifacting and fuzziness you'd expect from composite, however, the resolution of the BVM is too high and dithering is still visible. Compared to RGB, s-video even, it's just not as sharp and doesn't have that "HD" look.
5 months ago
Anonymous
600 TVL PVM is a much better retro gaming display than any BVM ever made imo.
I see, thanks anons. Looks like BVMs are nice to have as one of the CRTs in your collection, not a monitor you'd use everyday
5 months ago
Anonymous
Once again, if the lines disappear then the point of using a BVM is lost.
5 months ago
Anonymous
?
The point isn’t the lines dumbass, it’s the clarity
5 months ago
Anonymous
If the lines disappear so does the clarity.
5 months ago
Anonymous
lol what is this logic
5 months ago
Anonymous
It's common sense.
5 months ago
Anonymous
So, no reasoning then?
Having a larger set also creates blank lines, does that create more clarity?
5 months ago
Anonymous
Yes, that is also common sense. The black lines are creating separation between each scanline resulting in higher clarity.
That's kind of the whole point of measuring TVL.
However if you take it too far and have too much of a mismatch between resolution, screen size, and TVL you get the window blinds effect, which is unsightly.
5 months ago
Anonymous
Ah, now I see
It's the TVL autist carry on
5 months ago
Anonymous
You are moronic. You aren't supposed to see lines at viewing distance. Which is just a few feet. You only see them noticeably with your face against the screen. The point of a BVM is not to play 10 inches away from the screen.
5 months ago
Anonymous
>You aren't supposed to see lines at viewing distance. Which is just a few feet.
Well you're going to see them on a BVM at that distance. >You only see them noticeably with your face against the screen.
That is not true.
5 months ago
Anonymous
You've never owned a BVM.
5 months ago
Anonymous
I've owned an 800 line Sony PVM-20M4U
which has basically the same performance. You still can easily see the scanlines sitting "a few feet" away. On a 1000 TVL BVM the effect would be stronger.
5 months ago
Anonymous
You can see scanlines on consumer models too, so I never really understood this sentiment.
On my PVM, I can clearly see the scanlines, but they don't look like the massive black gaps in the picture they come across as when you take a photo of the screen. I sit back maybe 4 or 5 feet when I play and they just give everything a bit of a nice texture.
>I've owned three.
What happened to them?
One started emitting a high pitched squeal so I replaced it with the next one when I found it for free. The second one I liked but it was 32" and just too damn big. Ended up giving it to a guy who moved into an apartment with no furniture or anything. This was like 15 years ago, so craigslist was lousy with the things. Last one was 27" which was a perfect size, but it was just really worn out and I didn't have room for it, so I got rid of it when I bought a new LCD.
5 months ago
Anonymous
Sorry it didn't work out with the I'arts. Do you reget not keeping the 27" one?
5 months ago
Anonymous
I mean, it worked out. I used them all a bunch. This was during the Wii era so I was glad to have something that actually made that system look good.
I don't regret getting rid of the 27" because it was really worn, and later that same year I ended up finding a free 20" PVM which I'm still using. I am still on the hunt for something in the 27" range to have as a backup, though. I currently have a 27" D-series which I am not a fan of all and would trade for an i'Art in a heartbeat.
I've owned three. They were great.
[...]
Yeah, all the best-looking Dreamcast games I've seen let the textures do the work.
[...]
You'll either love it or not. It's a divisive game because while the mechanics of it are pretty generic, it's got a ton of heart and atmosphere, and the characters are all very likable. A big reason for this is that the localization team basically gutted the script and re-wrote it from scratch, so everyone sounds much more natural and "Western" as opposed to having stilted anime dialogue like most JRPGs.
Here's a shot of that exact same scene on the exact same monitor from my last playthrough 5 years ago, but it's the Dreamcast versions via S-video, as opposed to Gamecube via component.
5 months ago
Anonymous
I have i'art and d-series side by side and the i'art looks sharper and has better colors but worse geometry than the d-series. Interlacing is more visible on i'art than the d-series too
Even a 25-32 inch consumer Trinitron looks too sharp for most /vr/ consoles, I have no idea why people want their games to look like an LCD with a shitty filter.
>Picked up dozens of high end CRTs in the 00's and 2010's for free or pennies >Filled my whole storage with them over time >Only ever been using a few myself >Picked a few as backup >Sold the rest for massive profit
My brother found a crt and gave it to me. Composite looks like crap after playing rgb on my scaler. So I ordered retrovision cables for my master system.
if you mean component cables and you already have RGB on other shit then its cheaper to buy 1 rgb to component converter to feed them all into it. Same end result
I would have probably done that too if I had the money to spare. The only bonus using a separate adapter is that you could have them plugged up to RGB and component at the same time using a switch instead of changing the console cables
Okay, real talk now. Who has actually played for at least a couple of minutes on a Sony BVM, both in 240p and 480i? I don't care about theoretical ramblings, screen photos, or YouTube videos. Does anyone here actually see those monitors in person, and have an opinion one way or the other?
I had a BVM that I sold years ago because the prices have gotten so high and I didn't think the difference was worth it. I thought it looked better than anything I've played games on or watched SD content with. But in the end I'm looking at low res content so the extra high TVL felt superfluous
>But in the end I'm looking at low res content so the extra high TVL felt superfluous
This is how I feel. The problem with mega high TVL is the image loses its texture. Some BVMs make the raster look like lines drawn on a vector monitor. That kind of solid color where you don't get the "grain" of the mask just doesn't look right to me.
I have played for hundreds of hours on real PVMs of various types and on Sony aperture grille type PC CRT monitors in 240p120 mode which strongly resembles a BVM's image.
So what do you want to know?
I'll tell you right off they are insanely overrated.
I have a crappy 14 inch Matsui (Curry's own-brand) vcr combo unit that supports RGB over scart.
Although I don't use it, since it has some minor visual issues that I'm too low iq to fix.
If you live in Europe and your CRT doesn't support RGB over scart, you should buy a lottery ticket.
That simply isn't true. The picture I posted is about as shitty and low-end as it gets. A supermarket brand 14" VHS combo unit. I guess maybe if you're from some slav shithole or something they might have sold models without RGB SCART, but not here.
seething and bringing up the topic again because you were wrong?
Plenty of CRTs with SCART don't have RGB, stop trolling
5 months ago
Anonymous
same shitty and moronic argument, that's why
also ironic since I'm not even the original anon, so multiple people do disagree with you
you probably have a small sample size, chassis in europe were pretty universal between countries
Just ignore and don't derail the thread.
I already posted
I've have and have had several of Spanish and German region models of low end CRTs form a few manufacturers and none of them have RGB over SCART. RGB isn't as universal with SCART as people always claim.
Even with higher end consumer models, like black Trinitrons that have several SCART inputs, not all the inputs support RGB either.
against that same argument once and got ignored, there's no point in bringing it up again.
5 months ago
Anonymous
>Plenty
got proof of that?
5 months ago
Anonymous
What do you consider proof? This isn't some obscure thing
Tubes degrade over time with use, rest of the parts are still easily available online.
>If not, does it make you want to use it extremely sparingly?
I have enough CRTs as backup and service and repair my own CRTs. So I'm not really worried, they are meant to be used, I'll be long dead before I run out of CRTs.
It's not worth worrying about. These things were built to be living room televisions. Even if you're an avid gamer you're not going to be taxing it that much.
i get that, i just figured that it's been around 20 years since people were buying these new, so everything out there has probably already seen a lot of use
According to the internet, most consumer TVs should have visible wear after 30k hours. So if you get some that's low use (verifiable at least on some Sony's), let's say 10k hours, how long it would take you realistically to run it into the ground? Even playing for 4 hours every single day, that's only 14k hours in 10 years
Just a power converter, RGB doesn't use encoding like PAL or NTSC, so that doesn't matter, all you need is the right voltage, the frequency doesn't matter even, CRTs have internal clocks, that CRT TVs use line frequency is a myth, only some oscilloscopes and related did.
So 110V to 220V power converter and SCART cables or adapters.
why don't you just get a heavy ass CRT television that's already in the country you live in?
there are plenty of monitors and televisions that support PAL signals as well as NTSC
You won't be able to import such a TVs from another continent. Most people who sell these in Europe have no idea what they're doing. They won't verify anything for you, you'll never know how much wear is on the set, and if RGB 60hz even works, as maybe 1% of people used it back in the day and know what it is. Very expensive freight shipping the thing in a crate? LMAO
>Very expensive freight shipping the thing in a crate?
Unnecessary.
The weight of consumer CRTs is overstated.
A 19" consumer TV weighs less than 40 lbs.
A well padded box would be fine.
That's how you get tubes with broken necks. The box WILL get tossed around in sorting centers, the delivery man won't care to put the box on the correct side and a CRT really shouldn't lie on its back
5 months ago
Anonymous
You worry too much.
You ever actually shipped a 19" CRT ? I have have multiple times. Nothin' happened.
If it did: that's what shipping insurance is for.
Just a power converter, RGB doesn't use encoding like PAL or NTSC, so that doesn't matter, all you need is the right voltage, the frequency doesn't matter even, CRTs have internal clocks, that CRT TVs use line frequency is a myth, only some oscilloscopes and related did.
So 110V to 220V power converter and SCART cables or adapters.
P.S. it might be easier to RGB mod a NA set instead of importing from EU. You can add your own SCART port.
No, I'm saying its weird that one specific product line of JVCs are uniquely popular. Especially considering, like I said earlier, non-D JVCs have the same tubes and what made the D special back in the day was the audio.
it's because you can tell that it's a d-series from a shitty pic from the little branding on the top left. that's it. people dont always take pics of the back so its a guarantee when looking for component inputs. I think that's part of the reason wega trinitrons are so popular too.
I played some of this for the umpteenth time with a friend over the weekend, and every run only endears the game to me even more.
I frigging love the graphics in this game. This is peak usage of polygons to me. And I love how everybody's faces are sprite-based; it makes them a thousand times more expressive than fully 3D faces were at the time. Heck, they're more expressive than most modern games, too. It's easy to overlook, but I think one of the reasons this game has such a cult following is because of how expressive the characters are and how well staged and animated all the cutscenes are. All the characters feel very alive.
[...]
Yeah, all the best-looking dreamcast games I've seen let the textures do the work.
[...]
You'll either love it or not. It's a divisive game because while the mechanics of it are pretty generic, it's got a ton of heart and atmosphere, and the characters are all very likable. A big reason for this is that the localization team basically gutted the script and re-wrote it from scratch, so everyone sounds much more natural and "Western" as opposed to having stilted anime dialogue like most JRPGs.
They're great. >27
Feasibly movable by yourself but it wouldn't hurt if you brought someone else to lighten the load if you can.
[...]
Also video from two years ago when I picked up mine.
One think I recently found out that you NEED to do is to turn off (set to zero)the "red push" in the service menu called "NTSC MAT". Said video in catbox still had that red push enabled and I never really saw a problem until I started Majora's Mask and noticed everything seemed very dark on neutral settings.
Look at this video @ 8:40 here for more detail. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yeqzVuWq4_Y
The Dreamcast had a shit ton of VRAM even compared to the PS2 so it's textures could be crisp and high res.
Yeah, all the best-looking dreamcast games I've seen let the textures do the work.
I have the gamecube version of this that I picked up back when I was softmodding a wii for fun. I never really dived into it. Should probably do so.
You'll either love it or not. It's a divisive game because while the mechanics of it are pretty generic, it's got a ton of heart and atmosphere, and the characters are all very likable. A big reason for this is that the localization team basically gutted the script and re-wrote it from scratch, so everyone sounds much more natural and "Western" as opposed to having stilted anime dialogue like most JRPGs.
Also video from two years ago when I picked up mine.
One think I recently found out that you NEED to do is to turn off (set to zero)the "red push" in the service menu called "NTSC MAT". Said video in catbox still had that red push enabled and I never really saw a problem until I started Majora's Mask and noticed everything seemed very dark on neutral settings.
Look at this video @ 8:40 here for more detail. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yeqzVuWq4_Y
In case those post links don't work.
https://desuarchive.org/vr/thread/10519968/#q10521417 (Red push on)
https://desuarchive.org/vr/thread/10519968/#q10523817 (Red push off)
Yes. I constantly have to fumigate my CRT room. I keep roach and insect traps spread around the room, but they really don't seem to help. I've just learned to live with it, lol.
The roaches are part of the appeal. It gives the retro smell when they get burnt
Not necessarily the CRT, but your dandruff does. If it gets inside the exhaust vents it can attract roaches and it’s a pain to get rid of
I don't get it, why didn't everyone have roach problems before LCD TVs took off? Do you guys just not clean outdoor finds or something? Do you have an alley couch?
Nobody wants historical revisionism from zoomers, dipshit. Just because your parents probably took care of the bug/roach issue while you blissfully played your Nintendos doesn't mean it wasn't real.
The CRTs came with roaches new out of the box because of the manufacturing process.
5 months ago
Anonymous
Yep it’s definitely the troll
5 months ago
Anonymous
less to do with the manufacturing and more with the testing and shipping that occured at separate warehouses, particularly during the 80s and 90s when TV manufacturing was completely overseas. It was much less of an issue for boomers with domestically produced sets in the 50s nad 60s.
There's zero articles describing bug infestations caused by CRTs. Nah, you're the revisionist.
The CRTs came with roaches new out of the box because of the manufacturing process.
I bought a new old stock CRT in the late 2000s for $20 which was then opened in my bedroom where it remained for half a decade before I moved out with it. Zero roach infestations whatsoever.
This is clearly a forced meme from broke anons thinking it'll tank the value of CRTs. There's no precedent, so it won't.
>There's no precedent
Literally just google it. Roaches love warmth and will gather and nest inside of electronics like CRTs or big amplifiers that creates a lot of warmth. It isn't an issue with LCDs or most other modern electronics because they don't really get warm the way older stuff does.
5 months ago
Anonymous
I've opened 20+ used CRTs from various backgrounds and never found dead roaches or their droppings inside. I'm not saying it's not possible, but I think it's less common with CRTs than other pieces of electronics. Bugs seem to prefer game consoles. I've seen a lot of PS1s with roach droppings inside.
Still, one of the first things I'd do with any used CRT I buy is take the back off and check.
5 months ago
Anonymous
>Roaches love warmth and will gather and nest inside of electronics
in addition to this, any piece of old electronic equipment that emits a high frequency either through cathode or transistor tubes will also attract roaches. It used to be that people thought ultrasonic frequencies would drive them away, but really it just kind of excites them and makes them want to find the source. It'll even lure them into your house, especially if it's by a door or window.
Really, the dead giveaway is how many goddamn roach and pest control commercials used to be on TV in the 90s and earlier. Then they just kinda... stopped. When was the last time you heard about Raid? or the Orkin man? Shit used to be everywhere because older TVs literally attracted roaches into homes they wouldn't give a shit about otherwise.
I've opened 20+ used CRTs from various backgrounds and never found dead roaches or their droppings inside. I'm not saying it's not possible, but I think it's less common with CRTs than other pieces of electronics. Bugs seem to prefer game consoles. I've seen a lot of PS1s with roach droppings inside.
Still, one of the first things I'd do with any used CRT I buy is take the back off and check.
>I've opened 20+ used CRTs
You know how little that is in the grand scheme of things? You may as well say you opened ONE.
5 months ago
Anonymous
>When was the last time you heard about Raid? or the Orkin man?
5 months ago
Anonymous
horror story
from years ago,
have roommates
they always leave food out
they never clean up the fricking crumbs
roaches infested the fishtank in the kitchen
they got into literal AC plug and were breeding inside it
this activity carried over into the plug itself
i still get heebie jeebies thinking about it
when i got my own place
i had to check every item i owned
i bought a comical amount of roachtrapbait
never found anything though
its been almost 3 years now
never again
5 months ago
Anonymous
Correlation is not causation. Your bed is warm, better get rid of that. Your central heating is warm too, that also needs to go to be roach free. Your organs are warm, better disembowel yourself just to be sure.
>it isn't an issue with LCDs
Google it. There are far more documented bugs inside LCDs than CRTs.
>Roaches love warmth and will gather and nest inside of electronics
in addition to this, any piece of old electronic equipment that emits a high frequency either through cathode or transistor tubes will also attract roaches. It used to be that people thought ultrasonic frequencies would drive them away, but really it just kind of excites them and makes them want to find the source. It'll even lure them into your house, especially if it's by a door or window.
Really, the dead giveaway is how many goddamn roach and pest control commercials used to be on TV in the 90s and earlier. Then they just kinda... stopped. When was the last time you heard about Raid? or the Orkin man? Shit used to be everywhere because older TVs literally attracted roaches into homes they wouldn't give a shit about otherwise.
[...] >I've opened 20+ used CRTs
You know how little that is in the grand scheme of things? You may as well say you opened ONE.
There are still pest control commercials, all you've said is you don't watch TV anymore. Good for you, by the way.
I use UMS DLNA player and transcode to my 360
Works well enough
This reminds me of something.
Thrift / second-hand stores sometimes have old set-up boxes, the subscription services won't work, but many have proper 480i/567i output, via composite, s-video or SCART and the DLNA client often still works or they have USB connector to play media from. I picked up one once for 5 bucks with remote and AC adapter and used it as a media player for a CRT when I had no better option. Low power too compared to using old consoles.
There was a Roku unit with composite output designed specifically for SD, 4:3 displays not too long ago. You can create a Plex server from a PC and then play everything over wi-fi on the Plex app. Works really well and requires minimal hardware; just a 4-inch rectangle, a power cord, and some RCA cables.
Sadly, demand seems to have gone up. They were only 25 bucks when I got mine and now they're 174. Probably still cheaper than a lot of other potential solutions, but goddamn.
Considering that most of what I play is just old DVD rips, composite still looks really good, and it doesn't take up an input I'd rather use for a console. Actually, the novelty wore off pretty quick and I got into just watching VHS tapes for the full nostalgia effect.
PS3 is the goated with the sauce media player. It supports every type of video output. Actually I do remember it was a pain to do media streaming for some formats like mkv? But it’s doable
i guess to keep things fair/consistent, both would be flat consumer tubes and of similar year and size. the slot mask would also be a top brand (toshiba, jvc, etc.) i'm mostly curious how well s-video aperture grille compares to component on slot masks
I just ordered a very expensive ass scart cable for the dreamcast. Game shown is Virtual-On Oratorio Tangram. I can't seem to capture a good pic of it but it's pretty. I really didn't need such a nice scart cable for this. The s-video cable I had was fine.
Ali express. They have a bigger one that I might bet the future. For now i dont have any mire room for consoles. I also use a toslink switch and component switch. Ali express also has the best scart to component transcoders.
with vintage failing capacitors you're gonna hear noises brother
I still can hear the TV if it's left on
my dad used to bust my balls for falling asleep with the crt TV on
i've just been unlucky then
every VGA monitor I bought in the last five years has had the problem
Maybe if I downscale the resolution before sending
I'm not even using it with my PC kek
>shitty LED lighting >cheapo cube shelves >soulless detolf with consoles on display >LCD
Wow, it's been so long since I got enraged at this level of shit taste I almost forgot how to do it. I'll at least give you points for running a 16:9 mod instead of just stretching the image to fit the screen.
After a couple of hours, I find the fumes hurt my eyes more than my lungs, but I'm already generally squinting because of the flickering light and the high-pitched whine, so it's really not much of a big deal.
v nice
i got a bunch for free too even here in california >thrift store owner >tell him its for sega genesis >he happily shares some gaymen memories and gives me a huge zenith crt with svideo
other time: >respond to craigslist ad >drive over with my friend and a large truck >she finds out its for atari shit >laughs, "just take it for free, its been years since i ever even heard someone say 'Atari' wow,,,"
other tiem >sidejob, sweating profusely, get everything done >free water bottle, chug it >mention you can 8shitdo the amazon firesticks >i got an old gaymen tv brother you want it? FREE just take it, it works good!
it was a truetech target brand but i ran it until the speakers failed and got all shittyraspy
>local thrift store has a Toshiba 32AF45 >looks pretty much mint but the remote doesn't work >no input button on the TV >can't check the image unless I get something to hook up to it through coaxial
How hard is it to replace an IR reader on one of these?
the bugs are everywhere
just because you're too autistic to notice them doesn't mean they're not real
the worst bug infestation I've ever seen the people who lived in those homes swore up-and-down that they never saw even one
delusional
has anyone ever rgb modded a crt? how complicated was it? my particular set is supposedly easy (sony trinitron kv20fv12) but it all sounds so daunting
convert the signal to S video
congratulations now you don't have to do anything moronic
its just like the cat owners and cat piss smell
it's in your clothes it's in your carpet
y'all motherfrickers have toxoplasmosis
Stop feeding the misconceptions troll
He’s getting you to talk about wienerroaches FFS
le bugs r undah my skin!!!
NO, your physical age made you bald.
my clippers made me bald
and my balls smooth as eggs
Any reason some BS like this wound work?
sounds bad but maybe its good
the gen1 apple tv had composite/component out also
my pops keeps his to this day as a media server
Ali express. They have a bigger one that I might bet the future. For now i dont have any mire room for consoles. I also use a toslink switch and component switch. Ali express also has the best scart to component transcoders.
how long until it catches on fire
i hope you unplug when not in use anon
use 240p test suite and lagtest it
chinese crap sometimes adds latency
What do CRTs have to do with roaches
That’s a problem where you live
thrift stores are notorious for spreading rats/turds/bugs/not cleaning etc
Personally I find the roach discourse a thousand times more entertaining than the usual shit you guys bicker about like screen size or scanlines or SCART or whatever.
Finally a non-audiocucked setup.
>Altec Lansing slop
Still cucked
Yea the right speaker broke. So i added an amp. You can see it on top.
Im surprised you know that brand.
Snes uses low quality samples it can't output audio that would benefit from a audi setup that costs more than $20
moron
KV-32S42 on s-video
I'm considering moving my TV over to my little PC desk on the right side of this pic. I sat on it, and I weigh 154 lbs and it didn't collapse under my weight, and this TV is apparently 104 lbs, so it should be able to support its weight.
Honestly, I have no idea how this little wooden side table somehow managed to support this TV's weight for half a year. I kept thinking it would collapse any day.
>32
Lucky. I've got a KV-27FV16 here, also using S-video.
Bump it from the side and see if it becomes a one time folding table.
It probably would. Every time I changed the cables, I feared that alone would cave the table in. Never even bothered cleaning the screen. But if that tiny table can support it, then I'm sure actual steel legs can.
This is the sexiest pic of a CRT I've seen in a while.
HON HON HON HON
21FS140 on Component.
how to unlock sideways castle
Play some shmups with crt sideways previously. 😛
What is man but a miserable pile of secrets?
>dinky tray table for a massive tv
oof right in the structural engineering
not that anon but its frickin impossible to find good CRT stands that dont look like shit these days
you almost have to get a corner stand if you have anything bigger than a 20"
ive been using an ikea svalov end table (20"sq top) i bought in 2007, it has skid bases which is great for moving it around on carpet
I have a 32" D-Series and bought one of these:
https://www.ashleyfurniture.com/p/watson_end_table/T481-2.html
It's a perfect height for a larger TV and its made of solid wood so it's more than sturdy enough. Plus it's simple enough that it goes with most decor.
I don't have a picture at the moment but my favorite TV and really my end game grail is a Toshiba 36A41 I've been lucky enough to have in the family since new. It's in storage right now because I lack the space for the time being but my uncle was the original owner. I consider it the perfect TV. Curved glass shadowmask with component is exactly what I want. And Toshiba made the absolute best of the best of that type, which is why I'm constantly surprised it doesn't get as much love as Sony and JVC. If I absolutely need to I'll ditch the D-Series but I'm hoping to get enough room to keep both.
Here's that D-Series I mentioned earlier. It's a JVC AV-32D503. A couple of the capacitors went bad. I know where they are, too, but I'm too lazy to swap them out right now. It works though so that's good enough for me for the time being.
Best TV in my opinion
Wish I could find one
If only is was black, the silver is not as appealing
I have a Toshiba 36A41 squirreled away that blows the D-Series out of the water. In fact, this D has a Toshiba tube in it which means I have a pretty even comparison and it's no contest. I think it's just that fewer people are aware of the Toshibas.
That said, the black D-Series sets are supposedly have better build quality. Over time JVC started cheaping out on the chassis. Mine only has one S-Video port, for example, even though you can see the cutout for a second. Also don't ignore non-D JVCs. What makes the D-Series special isn't the tube but the audio. It has better speakers than non-D sets but the tubes are the same. I think a lot of the D-Series love has to do with the branding. It's easy to identify so people gravitate to it. JVC's marketing worked 20 years later.
Talking about the look of the TV
>That said, the black D-Series sets are supposedly have better build quality.
Not sure about this. If anything, most people I've talked to say you want a silver one because the black ones are prone to developing a serious fish-eye problem as they age.
I got a black D-series for free and despite endless geometry tweaking and a COMPLETE recap, the image is just warped beyond repair. I ain't complaining because it was free, but I'd never seek one out.
mine isn't like that. Not all blacks anon
Sounds like a linearity problem
Wish I could, phone makes file size too large
Currently watching some bluray rips of old anime on mine through my 360
Best I could do
>Sounds like a linearity problem
No. The edges around the entire screen are warped, and none of the geometry settings will affect it. It's just 20 year old TV that's fricking tired. My friend's dad had a D-series that is still tucked away in his basement. We dug it out and tested it and it had the exact same issue. I did a complete recap of the deflection board and even removed the speakers just in case they were causing distortion, and nothing made a lick of difference.
It's actually such a prominent issue on the early D sets that I've read people who got one as their first curved-screen CRT being so off-put by it they swear off of curved tubes forever.
Its honestly kind of funny how the D-Series is meme'd in the CRT community but you constantly hear about wonky units. Some of that is confirmation bias because they're very common and the more of anything the more problems you'll hear about but it's still a little funny.
I mean, for how tired my set is, it's still nice-looking. I think people are just clamoring for a big name brand alternative to all the overpriced Trinitrons on the market, and the D-series fits the bill.
JVC made a good set, I'm actually a pretty big fan of the i'Arts. I owned two of them many years back and they were gorgeous, with generally better geometry than any D-series I've seen, despite the flat tube. I was actually with my friend about 20 years ago when he bought a brand new 36 inch i'Art with money from his first job. I remember he said he liked it better than the Trinitron, and it's a sentiment that is echoed by a lot of archived product reviews I've dug up. Fricker weighed like 200 lbs, though
I have i'art and d-series and the flat has really bad geometry compared to the curved
I'm over the Trinitron hype for sure. One problem is that Sony went all in on flat tubes so there are very VERY few curved Sonys with component. Plus the benefit of the aperture grille was originally a brightness thing, which may have been huge in the 70s but wasn't a problem by the time you got to the 90s and 2000s slotmasks. A lot of flat trinis end up looking gaudy in comparison, with dreadful red push.
>dreadful red push
I specifically remember this being a frequently complaint about Sony flat tubes in the early 2000s, and one of the biggest reasons many consumer reviews said JVC's flat tubes were a better buy.
I've only owned this single one and luckily I have no fisheye problem. It has pretty bad focus in the corners though. It was the easiest and most recognizable curved CRT with component inputs to look for
This just requires adjusting the focus pot with minute adjustments
doesn't fix it, I've tried
what about a recap? i have the same problem
I have blurry edges as well as a fish-eye issue. I did a complete recap of the set. Didn't fix anything.
I'm glad you got a winner. They're not bad TVs at all. It's just that they're hyped to shit to the detriment of other brands that at least as good.
stop creating ficitonal situations in your head to get mad about anon. theres no "detriment to other brands".
How often do you hear about Panasonic or Sanyo? Those are great but nobody talks about them.
Neither of those use their own tubes anon
Neither does JVC. It's weird that the D-Series gets a unique amount of attention.
Well my grundig here
has a Thomson tube and it’s super sharp, I heard that the JVC’s had that and Toshibas so I assumed they were good
Panasonic and Sanyo don't sell CRTs anymore anon
>What makes the D-Series special isn't the tube but the audio.
Lol, that's dumb. Why would you accept a shitty tube just because it comes with good speakers when any random bookshelf speakers and an audio receiver from a flea market would be a thousand times better?
because it's not true and anon is making shit up because its turning into a contrarian circle jerk since he sees jvc as too popular. People look for d-series because they are curved with component and easy to find.
Back when these were new TVs were such a mature technology that manufacturers had to come up with ways of making their products look better than anyone else's. That involved improved side mounted speakers and other features that don't really matter anymore like picture-in-picture. The tubes were often identical though across a range of product lines.
That's not what I asked.
What are you asking?
I'm so mad I had to leave my D-Series behind during a move. I will find another, mark my words...
>Saturn games on the floor.
Are you a psycho?
ah your d-series does look like shit though. weird
The D-Series is fricked up for sure. It's got some bad caps I haven't gotten around to fixing.
Interested in seeing it. Like I said, this is what the thing looked like right from Best Buy. I haven't fiddled with it at all because of where it is. Just getting that one picture was a production. It also looks a lot better in person. I have no idea how to take a picture of a CRT and not make it look like garbage. Even the D-Series doesn't look THAT bad in person. I'm using an iPhone. You're basically seeing both TVs in the worst possible conditions.
Do you know what tube is in yours? JVC used a shit ton of manufacturers.
The funny thing about PVMs and BVMs is that retro gaming is arguably not what they're best for. They exist to display a broadcast image with enough precision that a production staff can know exactly what's being displayed and make adjustments. Watching an actual movie on those things is what they'd be best for.
I'm not sure. It's a black 32 inch D-series. I haven't opened it up before.
>Watching an actual movie on those things is what they'd be best for.
I use mine for that, too. But I think it's silly to infer that a monitor--or any piece of equipment--should only be used for whatever it's "best" for.
Here's that Toshiba 36A41 I was talking about. Excuse the photography, I don't really know how to take a picture of a CRT properly and make it look right. What I can say is my uncle is the original owner. I actually helped him pick it up from Best Buy way back in 2001. What you're seeing here is factory settings. I can not only guarantee the service menu has never been touched, I don't even thing the regular menu has been. My family was never particular about TVs. As long as it got a picture that was always good enough.
My D-series looks better than that. That looks lower TVL
I use ikea kallax with some drill-on furniture feet I bought off of amazon. I also bought these shelf dividers off of etsy (because the official ikea dividers are fricking impossible to buy) and have most of my consoles tucked into them. Except the original Xbox, thing is too fricking fat to get into the shelf with the dividers on.
consider: they sell project boards at home depot and lowes of all manner of sizes, as well as metal pipes and fittings but also beams such as 2x4 lumber. this sounds crazy, but you might be able to devise a way to fasten some of these things together to create some kind of platform that could bear weight.
despite my sarcasm, i actually don't encourage anyone to do something fricking dumb like pay money for an ancient CRT and actually keep it in your home. I grew up with them. they're bad. trust.
Can't you just order a custom stand for it from a carpenter? Do people really just furnish their homes with ikea slop and nothing more?
I wouldn't trust Ikea anything to hold a CRT, personally.
IKEA has decent value shit, if it can hold a 130kg man, I'm fine it holding even a 100kg CRT.
I find this entire room unsettling on a spiritual level.
It definitely isn't very well thought out is it
Im schizophrenic dude
You should see the other sides of the room
I can post it when i get home at 4pm
Same, it’s /x/ tier.
Looks like good feng shui to me.
>how many wires you want f.am
>all of them, but somehow worse
I live in a shithole and have none of this
Dude please tidy the frick up.
Why are you his mom? Is that why your always bending over in front of men all the time?
XD
In my research of arcade monitor specifications I've been looking for any information to allow them to be compared in terms of TVL ratings to consumer television and video monitors.
See what you think of my math.
540 / 0.8 = 675 dots (manual says 676 for unknown reason)
But this 675 is across the whole width of the display. To measure TVL you only measure across the width an amount equal to the height of the viewable display space.
That is quoted in the manual to be 405mm.
675 / 540 = 1.25 dots per mm
405 * 1.25 = 506 dots
That would suggest 506 TVL. However, I strongly suspect it would be lower due to the lines blurring together at that fine of a test pattern if displayed.
400 TVL maybe for this tube? 450?
Source:
https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/images/3/34/MS-2931_Service-manual_full.pdf
You can also do this another way. Take the number of horizontal dots and divide by 1.333 (4:3 in decimal).
That gives the same number of 506.
Beam focus plays a role too. The physical TVL of the mask might be 506, but you're not getting all of it.
You can have some fun with this with a PC CRT.
I have a PC CRT which has a shadow mask with a dot pitch of 0.28mm
The viewable screen size is 385 x 290 mm.
That equates to a TVL rating of roughly 1036 TVL. Or just round it down to 1000.
However, you can easily display a video game in a window on this monitor.
By setting a low resolution and shrinking the window but maintaining a 1:1 pixel mapping in software you can effectively lower the visible TVL rating because as the screen becomes smaller the dot pitch becomes relatively coarser in comparison.
So working backwards to achieve a 500 TVL rating you would need to set a window size of 187 x 140 mm while maintaining a 1:1 pixel mapping. By setting a PC monitor to 640x480 mode this can usually be accomplished.
I ordered a second pair of these for $42 for a setup corner I have. I want to use one set for a 13" Toshiba CRT for NES, Genesis and PC Engine games and the second set for a PC Monitor for Dreamcast games for VGA goodness.
why would you do that? are you not allowed to have better speakers you could get for free?
Limited space and those speakers do what I need.
Here are my bose speakers in action. I think they are very nice.
Got one of wakabavideo/linuxbot3000's video transcoders and some Extron cables on the way.
The time for gaming is nigh.
misconception: CRTs are good
reality: CRTs are bad
kys
They were the best at the time. And give respect where it is due, good CRT tvs lasted. It was common to get a solid decade or more out of it.
reality: CRTs are good
also reality: I don't care to fool with them so much anymore and love the convenience of a high-end low-lag LCD using shaders.
I wanna pickup a CRT monitor but not sure what to choose between HP or a viewsonic
PC CRTs are rarely worthwhile tbh
where's that? there's probably places you can find a quality slot mask for free/cheap
Eh?
Wouldn't say that, they're good for 480p and retro PC gaming, especially all those old 2D RPG's and RTS games
those games are much more enjoyable without eyestrain and headaches, and shadow mask shaders are pretty good now if you have a 4K display
Nah, you're tripping mate
It'd mainly be used as a passive display anyway or for watching anime
Yeah a used PC CRT is great for that. I used to have a 19-inch Dell I got for free because it had a smashed casing. It burned out after a few years and I didn't care to fix it, but it was definitely great for watching old 4:3 SD content, especially anime.
But to answer your question, I'd lean toward the Viewsonic just from personal experience and memory, but the real answer is to take whichever is in better shape after 20+ years on this godforsaken earth.
slot mask? and doubtful I live in Raleigh, NC i've looked everywhere here, I mainly want a CRT monitor though cause the high pitch noise of TVs really fricks with my tinnitus.
>fricks with my tinnitus.
anon what?
how could you possibly hear the sound if you have tinnitus, it's the same sound
nah its higher pitch, my tinnitus isn't extremely bad, but when I hear the TV it becomes really bad.
>PC CRTs are rarely worthwhile tbh
TV for 240p/480i and the likes, VGA CRT for 480p and up, simple as.
>PC CRTs are rarely worthwhile tbh
They are good for playing PC games.
I hate living in a place where people want $100 to $200 for a CRT. Wtf do I do?
I remember i picked up 3 in one day. From craiglist . I live by Pittsburgh Pennsylvania
check facebook marketplace/craigslist every single day until you find someone basically giving them away
i just paid $100 + $50 shipping
if you're so uncertain maybe you don't really want one
My main monitor has been down for a while, but I finally got it fixed and have been shaking off the cobwebs with my umpteenth FF7 playthrough. These pre-rendered backgrounds are just peak soul.
Also kinda getting me hyped for part two of the remake. Not that I think it's amazing or anything, but I do enjoy seeing them extrapolate fully 3D environments from these 25-year-old renders, even if they are less soulful.
Wow. I need to play ff7, i was thinking of starting with 6 tho.. hm.
>i was thinking of starting with 6 tho.. hm.
If you have the patience, try 6 before 7. I think it's worth it, and gives you some added perspective on just how much of a big deal 7 was when it came out.
5 is better
Maybe if you’re a contrarian
And a shot of my little game corner. This room is cold as frick in the winter, but that just makes it all the more cozy. Nothing warms the heart like huddling in a blanket around the soft glow of the tube.
>This room is cold as frick in the winter
do you not have heat, anon?
I do. It's just an old house, and that room is actually a converted sunroom with a frickton of ancient windows so it's kind of drafty. But I like it because it's the last room in the house that hasn't been renovated since the 70s so it has wood paneling and is generally very comfy. Also I can crank the volume and not disturb my wife as much.
I just use the heater to take the chill off when it's super cold. If I leave it running, it'll make it quite toasty, but I prefer a slight chill. Sometimes my kot comes to help warm me up, too.
>I can crank the volume and not disturb my wife as much.
Ah. So your wife made you put it out there.
lol no. She actually assumed I was going to set up the CRT in the living room when we moved in together. I decided myself to put it in the sunroom because of the wood paneling and because I like the privacy. Of course, my setup was much smaller back then, before I added the chunky amp, equalizer, bigger speakers, subwoofer, etc.
Also I don't think she expected it to be as loud as it is, lol. One time I was playing FF7 and I cast Beta and the whole fricking house vibrated. She thought the water heater was getting ready to explode or something.
>the whole fricking house vibrated.
>those dinky speakers
doubt. but at least you're not completely audiocucked
I upgraded. But true rumble is still mostly a product of the subwoofer. Best 20 bucks I ever spent.
>fell for the pvmeme
soulless
I have three different CRTs that I swap out as the situation demands. I'm not going to pretend that the PVM isn't the best, though.
my other is a 27" JVC that I got with the intention of using for 6th gen games because I think fully 3D environments do benefit from more screen real estate, but to be quite honest, 480i content still looks so much better on the PVM that I'm fine with just scooting my chair closer.
Sour grapes.
P/BVMs are fun but a 28" consumer TV is better then a 20" PVM, size matters most.
Im glad I have a 28" PVM
>size matters most.
it's funny that you used an image with exaggerated pixels which would actually objectively look better on a smaller tube
Still all depends on the distance from the screen and the TVL.
a 20 inch PVM will have higher TVL than a 32 inch consumer set... it would look even more "pixely"
CRTs don't have pixels, moron.
>bigger tubes are generally sharper
objectively wrong
>There is a reason the bigger TVs were alot more expensive back in the day, everyone wanted a big one
Which has nothing to do with quality of picture. Thanks for proving that you know jack shit about any of this. Consumers are morons.
>CRTs don't have pixels, moron.
I never claimed they did? The art style in
is pixely.
I was replying to
>objectively wrong
Majority of smaller tubes will have lower TVL too. So yeah, objectively right. Nobody was specifically talking about higher TVL PVMs or related, but tubes in general.
Except a bigger or smaller size literally makes the image look sharper to a greater degree than the effect of more or less TVL. The exact same model of set in two different sizes will ALWAYS look sharper when it's smaller.
Depends what tubes it uses, just because it's the same model doesn't even mean the tubes are from the same manufacturer. Mostly brands that make their own tubes stick to their own tubes, i.e. Sony. But even then it depends on size difference and TVL, it's not always.
TVL is something of a farce. It really only matters when distinguishing between monitor types, like a consumer versus professional. Within a class though? It's largely an illusion. Not only did manufacturers lie, the technology was very mature by the 90s and 2000s. 90% of the image quality is the chassis, not the tube.
>It's largely an illusion.
You clearly never owned a large collection of consumer tubes.
Even with PVMs the same size, TVL makes a big difference.
TVL and pitch play a huge role even within a class, doesn't matter what type of mask/grille it uses or if it's a TV, PVM, VGA monitor, etc.
>90% of the image quality is the chassis, not the tube.
No. Other way around and chassis mostly even plays a role only in professional or high end monitors.
Also I don't know what you're on about with manufacturers lying, TVL can easily be measured yourself.
Don't know if you're trolling or...
>You clearly never owned a large collection of consumer tubes.
Don't make assumptions. At far edges, sure, it makes a difference. But my point is that most of the conversation about TVL isn't at those edges. You see people arguing TVL between JVC and Samsung and at that point the differences, to whatever extent they exist, is pretty low on the list of things that are going to actually affect the picture quality. Again, the chassis makes more of a difference within a range. It's why a Toshiba tube in a JVC D-Series will look noticeably worse than the same tube in a Toshiba A Series. Tubes are pretty "dumb." The electronics driving it has waaaaay more sway over what the image looks like than the TVL. I'd argue even the type of mask matters more. Unless, again, it's at the far edges. But you're not going to find 800-1000 TVL tubes in a consumer chassis anyway. I think one of the most common example of what I'm talking about is the M tube you can find in some 32" JVCs. Yes, they look a little different but the effect is minimal compared to the weight people give to it.
Personally I'm interested in that universal chassis RetroRGB talked about a while back. It's in early development but if it pans out then you'll be able to drop in whatever tube you want and have a multisync monitor with every input under the sun. At that point even "low" TVL tubes will look fantastic.
>I'd argue even the type of mask matters more
Which is part of the tube.
>But you're not going to find 800-1000 TVL tubes in a consumer chassis anyway.
Got a 800 TVL (verified) consumer 15kHz monitor right here, not even a PVM.
>Got a 800 TVL (verified) consumer 15kHz monitor right here, not even a PVM.
What is it? Are you talking a computer monitor? I'm talking TVs.
>I'm talking TVs.
Ah okay, I thought you meant consumer hardware in general.
Ah, no. You're right in the larger conversation that TVL "matters." I'm just talking in the very specific niche of consumer TVs where people argue TVL. You can also lump arcade monitors in there, too, which are often consumer grade. Once you get into computer monitors, professional monitors, etc. things change. But at the same time, the whole display "changed" because it's built for a different purpose. The gist of what I'm saying is TVL doesn't matter that much in some specific contexts where it comes up.
>The gist of what I'm saying is TVL doesn't matter that much in some specific contexts where it comes up.
Yeah that's true.
>universal chassis
the open-source crt chassis? hasn't that been in early development for years now? is anyone actually working on it?
I think so. I haven't heard anything new but hopefully it's making progress behind the scenes. You always have somebody showing up asking about how possible it is to make new CRTs. But not only is that impossible, it's not even necessary. We have plenty of tubes. They're just trapped in garbage sets nobody wants. Imagine how awesome it would be if you could pick up a composite-only bottom of the barrel RCA, yank out the tube, and drop it in a custom chassis that turns it into a multisync beast. I know that's VERY optimistic but a man can dream.
>Also I don't know what you're on about with manufacturers lying, TVL can easily be measured yourself.
JVC routinely claimed it's D-Series sets were 800TVL, which is a lie. Or at least VERY deceptive.
>Don't know if you're trolling or...
Stop it.
The smaller size making the image look sharper is a subjective matter.
It is a matter of objective fact that the same slot pitch was used on tubes of different sizes. For example 25" and 29" arcade monitors have both used a .8mm center pitch. But on the 29" monitor this means the .8mm is a relatively finer pitch than it is on the 25" monitor.
I was talking about actual sharpness not percieved sharpness.
Yes bigger tubes at the same resolution will look less sharp if you sit at the same distance, but you get the luxury of not having to sit too close and having a bigger image.
I actually have a 9" PVM lying around and let me tell you I would never use that over a 20" consumer TV.
Bigger is better.
>a 20 inch PVM will have higher TVL than a 32 inch consumer set
Not always. The older PVMs had ratings of 350 to 560 TVL and there have been various premium grade 32" consumer televisions which surpassed that.
Small pvms aren't worth it. I sold mine.
The only professional monitor I'd actually want is an XM29. But unlike PVMs those are legitimately rare and I've never seen one in person.
Arcade cabinets didn't have PVMs in them. Anyone who prefers authenticity goes with consumer slotmasks. Frick off with that shit.
That looks extremely comfy
It is. It's actually theraputic to me and I don't realize it. Sometimes I'll go several months without using it because of my monitor needing repairs or something, and the depression really starts to settle in.
Part of the territory, sadly. Power supply issues are fairly straightforward, though. If you can find maintenance manuals for any of your specific monitors, you'd be surprised how often OEM parts are availabe on ebay. I basically have search alerts for almost any kind of PVM parts, which I will buy and stockpile immediately.
>size matters most.
Unless you just... sit closer. The only way size matters is if you regularly do multiplayer stuff with friends. I have a friend coming over tonight to play some stuff, actually, and I usually switch out to my 27" consumer model for that, but we've played on the 20 just fine.
>just sit closer
nah.
Bigger size allows you to sit more comfortably and bigger tubes are generally sharper and more impressive.
There is a reason the bigger TVs were alot more expensive back in the day, everyone wanted a big one
Nice setup with the speakers
I miss when i had this heater
I feel like I remember seeing daytime TV commercials for that heater. Trying to sell it to all the eternally-cold grandmas as they watched their stories.
I have a 5-input HDMI switch that uses that same remote.
You have a heater but i guess its not stronk enough
>comfy VU meters
Mr. Coates approves
My RGB Xstation ps1 setup. Need to thrift a stand to replace my moms old filing cabinet.
My CRT monitor is making noise every five minutes or so. How the frick do I stop that from happening? It's driving me insane. Model is an eMachines Eview 15P
Describe noise
Extremely high pitched screaming noise. Starts at a lower sound level then eventually gets louder and louder until it goes back to being quiet again.
Capacitor most likely
Could be something else but the capacitors are usually the first ones to vibrate
Do your wife make you put all that away and fold the table up when you're not using it? Be honest
No. This is just like an experiment setup i put up. To test brightness of games. And it is different. My other tvs are darker.
Cant see in some games on the other tv.
Barco is pretty cool
Bro spent all that money on audio equipment and then puts his CRT on a foldable TV tray.
I have 4 CRTs that don't work properly due to power failures.
1 was part of my main rig that no longer powers on
2 are ViewSonic PC monitors, 1 flat out doesn't turn on and the other "blinks"
1 will randomly turn itself on or off whenever its plugged in
I think I'm starting to regret collecting these things, bros.
Neat, stupid arguments. Thanks for reminding me why I stopped coming here.
Anyway, here's a pic of my wife playing Dr. Mario on an old D-series back when we were dating.
Tell the fat hog to lay off the carbs, moron
>muh carbs
they're fine once in a while
it's the inflammation causing foods 24/7 that caused people to gain weight weight
glyphosate exposure
s0ŷbêâńź in literally everything
its not food, if people are too moronic to not kill themselves with the "food" they eat on a daily basis then give up and move on
beef, eggs, non-GMO sourdough bread, local tortillas etc
people are lazy morons
same, atleast the sony you can easily resell +will be pretty reliable/made in japan usually
s-video is slept on but its the biggest jump from rf/composite without homosexual rgb mods aka ruining vintage hardware
But she likes carbs. And I like fat hogs.
Screen captured crt
?si=rEa9kqdvRCu7FeED
I don’t know how to organize my setup. Should I put my 27” consoomer trinitron and my 20” pvm side by side on a tv stand? Or should I put my 20” pvm on the desk next to my pc crt?
You should use them individually. Swap them out from time to time.
picked up this goofy and fairly useless nugget today at my regular thrifting spot. probably should have passed on it but i can't resist mini CRTs when i run across them in the wild
i have one too
mine can run off battery power
so if the world ends atleast i can still play on a crt kek
>It's a massive service cap with beach towel sized safari flaps in the back.
Just now realizing there was barely any reason to transfer Suikoden I and II data into III
These are the best shadow mask consumer sets.
Toshibas are better. Mark my words, JVCs are good reliable sets that are plentiful enough that you won't go wrong. But Toshiba A Series kick the shit out of them.
Really,I have a Toshiba. Don't know if that's an A series though. I started to go down the rabbit hole of collecting CRTs. I ha e a 20" jvc d series too. This Toshiba is just so nice because it's 27"
God I miss my 36A60. If I had only appreciated what I had on my hands and how hard it would be to get back these years later.
I want to say that's an Orion set but those aren't bad at all, either. They might also be better than a JVC, honestly.
The tube seems a little dim on this one compared to other sets but it's still quite nice. It has a lot of good inputs on the back. Many of my consoles go through scart rgb to component.
redpill me on JVC
They're curved glass slotmask consumer TVs with component. That makes them very similar to the kind of tubes found in arcade cabinets. They're also often free because there's less demand for non-Sony TVs. That said, JVC didn't make their own tubes so it's a lottery what you'll get inside. They sourced tubes from a good half dozen manufacturers over the years. Another downside is the build quality of the chassis can sometimes leave something to be desired. They've been known to suffer capacitor plague.
Like I said here
If you want a JVC I HIGHLY suggest looking for a Toshiba A series instead. They're the same type of TV except better. Just look for a true Toshiba rather than an Orion. Basically almost any TV pre-2001 and 32"-36" from about 2001 through 2004. I could be wrong by a year or two but that's the gist. Orion gradually started making more and more of Toshiba branded sets as time went on.
This guy here is rocking a Trueshiba A Series. A+ grail set.
>They're also often free because there's less demand for non-Sony TVs.
Less and less now that they are being evangelized here and on reddit.
Let's agree not to tell them about the Sanyos
Talking about TV specs/ searching out specific models is kinda pointless.
Aslong as you dont get some shitty noname brand and the TV is the right size its gonna be good, Panasonic JVC Phillips sony all excellent
CRTs in a dark room sexually arouse me
don't quote so many people in one post, it's incredibly rude
is it?
Not everyone has the wall space. You have to use that Z axis.
I just got this 25C-S50 yesterday but I was wondering if anyone could help? S-Video works fine I get an image but when it comes to composite I get not signal or barely any depending on the console. You can faintly see the neo geo cd logo to the left of the screen.
ps2 connected with s-video. Anybody what the cause may be? both front and back composite don’t show any images just sound.
Are you sure it's not just got the settings lowered on those channels?
I don’t think the setting would change anything; treble, bass, balance, soft tone, clear tone.
that's sound anon, I'm talking about video options
those are the only settings the tv has
yeah i can between 1 & 2 it automatically detects the input
Anyways s-video looks good enough, it’s probably just a resistor or something that go blown the frick out who knows.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?si=8OOBqP2TNPzwzMFj&v=OgI8ZfxEgVc
might want to try putting the video input in one of the audio ports and vice versa just to check to see if any wiring is reversed
are you able to switch between video 1 and 2? if not, maybe you need a remote. if yes, is the s-video unplugged?
Oh wait, actually does the TV have a switch?
Mine has a SVHS and VHS option which switches from S-video to Composite
sadly no “channel setting” is for searching channels to watch
you need a remote control
I’m using an universal controller, maybe an oem would have more options. But I can’t even find any information on this tv let alone the remote.
I mean if you can't even access the video options then you're not gonna get anywhere
Here's my outdoor setup.
I'm gonna do some nice inch and half thick shelves for each level.
if you don't wanna waste wood you can use cabinet liners
way cheaper and then you can leave it outside
Been jumping back and forth between simulated 25" and 29" CRT on my LCD monitor arcade setup and I think I'm liking 25" more.
Is the Sanyo DS27425 an 100% flat screen or is an "almost flat" screen. It's marketed as TruFlat.
I wonder if it has a 110 degree tube in it.
https://crtdatabase.com/crts/sanyo/sanyo-ds27425
Idk, but I got one about a month ago and it looks flat.
Photos please.
Here is OoT on component from my Wii on that Sanyo.
Explain
Second pic
This pic right here is why we don't talk about the Sanyos.
(until I get mine)
Because it looks pretty? I kind of think most of mine all look the same in terms of niceness, i.e. that Sanyo, a Panasonic ct-27d10b and my JVC 27" I'Art.
The difference is the JVC I'Art is a well known brand at this point and will fetch a premium price. Same would go for anything Panasonic because that was a historically premium brand up there with Sony.
Yeah, the bose speakers are shielded. It's one of the other reasons why I wanted to get a second pair.
how bad is having a high contrast on crt/color degradation over time. ive heard its bad so scared to put mine above like 1/4 but how bad actually is it?
It wont effect anything
double brightness quadrouple the wear in general.
But keeping a crt so dimm it looks bad is also stupid
find a balance.
BTW low contrast will only make the tube last longer, the flyback or something could still shit itself and kill the entire set
Meaningless. Crank it.
Someone is giving away a KV-25X1, also comes with this remote.
Wroth it?
No idea what that is, but if its free, go for it
Still have to pay for gas and spend time driving and carrying it
looks good and it's a trinitron, can't go wrong
>is this free item worth my money
Absolutely worth it. Can't go wrong with late 90s Trinitrons. I've never had an X1, but I've got both X2 and X5 and they're great.
Here's the service manual by the way:
https://archive.org/details/manual_KV29X1_SM_SONY_EN
>the manual literally shows everything
>from taking it apart and physically adjusting geometry and how to do it
>to accessing service menu and what all the options do
>it even includes schematics
Why can't modern manuals be like that
That's not a user manual though, it's a service manual for repairmen, and they probably had to pay some kind of licensing fee to get it.
Service manuals were meant for professional technicians, if you had a third-party repair shop you could buy them from the manufacturer, but that practice has mostly died down over time.
Manufacturers don't want you to fix your shit now, most devices are made to be one-time only. Once something dies you have to buy a new one. Even when you send back a faulty appliance to be fixed under warranty, most of the time they just send you a new one, at best just swap out the bad module. There's barely any real "fixing" going on now.
That's why you don't see many service manuals for newer hardware. Third party repair shops are mostly gone, too.
I often watch a guy on YT repairing various audio equipment of all ages, mainly amps, CD players, etc. He's recorded a few hundred episodes until now. Everything up to the early 2000s is more or less easily fixable, has a service manual or at least schematics available. After that? He has to guess and use his experience to trace the signal path manually and find the faults that need fixing.
The parts are mostly tiny SMD components, often mounted on multi-layer PCBs, too. good luck repairing a modern PC motherboard, for example. All of this contributes to a lot of work and costs that make it just not worth it in the long run. Easier to swap in a new module than fix the existing one. And you hardly need a complicated service manual for that.
That's what I heard before I got mine, and I wish I didn't listen. You absolutely can go wrong with them. I have an X5 stashed away, not sure what I should do with it. Corner convergence is absolutely fricked, especially in the top left, and the plastic is getting really brittle. What you should be doing is thoroughly inspecting every CRT you get, and not just think "well it's a 90s Sony, it's gotta be good", like I had.
>Corner convergence is absolutely fricked, especially in the top left
Easy fix though if you're comfortable working with running CRTs
>and the plastic is getting really brittle.
Really? I've heard that before but none of my consumer blacks have brittle plastic
It has to do with a very specific timespan of Sony CRT's, the mid 90's black curved trinitrons. Then again, I have a 20" '95 trinny that's doing just fine.
I am comfortable with taking them apart, but working on a running CRT is where I draw a line. And it's probably not worth the effort anyway, since the set has over 30k hours
really?
do you turn it off when you alter the focus?
Stop being a pussy. Unless you're trying to harm yourself, you'll be fine, even then you could just use electrical gloves. The only thing you would have to do is push a plastic band with a magnet on the end under the yoke. Not rocket science.
With CRTs being as old as they are its always a gamble no matter what. You're going to find a turkey every now and then regardless of the make and model.
Last time I tried to play a PSX game my PS2 just wouldn't. 5 hours in and so far so good this time.
Nice set up you got there. Very clean and good cable management. I too run a lot of my games through my stereo receiver. The stereo separation and bass from a Model 1 Genesis in particular sounds incredible
You can't really go wrong with any of them. Square put out nothing but FF masterpieces between 3 and 10.
meant for
But yeah, the Genesis 1 has such great sound not just for the chip differences, but the mixer cable makes it basically the only way to play Sega CD.
Despite having nothing to do with each other, playing FFs in order is a great experience because you witness how each idea first formed and then got refined later on. The games all build on each other in some pretty clever ways, both mechanically and in storytelling and plot structure. Each game is kind of like an answer to the previous ones. It makes you appreciate what each one does on a deeper level.
in the next thread
can the OP add the following green text questions
>which is best? slotmask, aperture grill, shadow mask?
>which systems benefit from which types the most?
>which do you own?
I hate this wire rack. I’d like to move to something that can hold all the consoles, but also hide them except when in use without having to reconnect them.
>want neogeo
>but have wii
I really want one, but for $400 I could pay like $120 for a Quest 3 for example.
mvs & aes gay here
i think the hardware is worth the chugs
i like feeling slowdown, on snes too
finalburnneo is great though +free
It's really cool and I have some MVS games, but the mvs to aes adapters are like $150 at least and I've been hearing about rotten traces. There is an AES for like $600 on ebay that has the unibios installed on it, but still I'm left without an mvs adapter. I would get an mvs, but I don't know a good place to buy one.
the seller on ebay in texas seems reliable
mvs-1c , i submitted a reasonable offer and he accepted
the magic adapters are quirky / have issues (and are comically expensive)
+i have been hearing certain fluffy bootlegs dont work with it properly
the aes 161 is cheaper but has caveats as well- some have glitches, some dont have credits at the end, some cant be beaten (piracy loop) , for what it is its fine but i would get a custom cart from acrade projects forum with the complete library instead for a bit more lunchmoney
hope that helps
i had the daedaulus adapter but resold
that's the "best" one & I still wasn't happy with it
What was the offer you made?
$120 or so
but I lived reasonably close for shipping
he might've sent me the offer to be honest just added it to your watchlist for a while and see if if he sent you some shieeet
but yooo you will need a good super gun
is really like to own an MVS cabinet, but probably wouldn’t want to go down the money pit that would be getting one fixed up to look nice and possibly replace the tube with one that isn’t terribly worn.
used entertainment center with doors
doesn't even technically need to have a back on it you could use posters or whatever and cut tiny slits holes for cabling
like this but with doors
I don't have anything hooked up though but I could
But those wire racks are how all the otaku have their stuff organized. Do you even weeb?
>bust out my old 'tube tv
>set off my tinnitus while the screen's on
>turn it back off after 20 mins
bros...
How did weak homosexuals like you survive back in the day
Between that and people complaining about eye strain, I just picture them looking like Kyles cousin from South Park
I never really noticed 15khz whine in the 90s.
But in the late 2000s I started to notice it a lot.
I have no explanation but it is what it is.
This is one of the reasons I like a PC CRT these days. No 15khz whine when I'm using shaders at 1792x1344.
>still haunted by all the CRTs I've missed over the years
this. I had a chance to buy them cheap years ago. Now every crt I see on craigslist or ebay is massively inflated prices. Even the shitty consumer sony are asking $200+ or something ridiculous. You still find free crts if you look hard enough but most of them are in poor condition. Craigslist is a scam.
I recognize that listing, in your's and my area there are still very nice CRT's you could go out and get if you're willing to go on a little 2 hour drive. Not ideal, but driving long distances for meaningless things is American culture.
>Even the shitty consumer sony are asking $200+ or something ridiculous.
>meanwhile in europe they still cost 5 or 10 eur in great condition
bless
Probably because even the shittiest 14" bedroom TV sold by a supermarket brand has an RGB SCART input in Europe, so looks basically fine.
Very low end TVs didn't usually support RGB over SCART, only composite or Y/C
That simply isn't true. The picture I posted is about as shitty and low-end as it gets. A supermarket brand 14" VHS combo unit. I guess maybe if you're from some slav shithole or something they might have sold models without RGB SCART, but not here.
I've have and have had several of Spanish and German region models of low end CRTs form a few manufacturers and none of them have RGB over SCART. RGB isn't as universal with SCART as people always claim.
Even with higher end consumer models, like black Trinitrons that have several SCART inputs, not all the inputs support RGB either.
tons of tvs that used SCART connectors didnt have rgb
>I had a chance to buy them cheap years ago.
I have been following CRT prices since 2006 and I don't recall any time I've ever seen BVMs dip into what I'd call cheap. The lowest I ever saw the 20" and bigger ones was maybe $300.
The popularity of BVMs for retro gaming is nonsensical. What they do to a 240p RGB image is going in the opposite direction of one of the biggest reasons people want to use in the first place: seeing obviously square dot graphics (I avoid using the word pixels here because it triggers autists).
For years 240p120 mode has been considered an inferior substitute for a real 240p60 display. But that's about what you're going to be looking at with a BVM, minus the extra ghosting effect. That's how thick your black lines are going to be.
To me BVMs are a meme for gays who want one because they are "the best". But that "best" was in a totally different context in totally different industries than retro gaming.
Somewhat ironically a BVM is going to be one of the easiest CRTs to simulate with a shader. The newest generations of high refresh rate OLEDs combined with shaders should be *very* competitive with a BVM in apppearance.
BVMs look fine at appropriate viewing distance. They are memes, but the huge black lines disappear when you sit back. Some of my giant CRTs have a similar issue when you get too close even at 400 TVL
If you sit back far enough for the lines to disappear you might as well just use a consumer CRT.
quit being moronic. The lines disappear at normal viewing distance. You aren't supposed to play 1 foot away.
Depends on the resolution. I have a "hi-res", 20'' PVM with a resolution of 900 TVL and sit about 2 feet from the screen. At this distance, the lines are clearly visible (I like seeing them so it isn't an issue). In order for the lines to become indistinguishable, I would have to move back to at least 10 feet, which is hardly ideal for a 20'' screen.
I've played 240p, 480i, and 480p content on my BVM and PVM. Are you asking which signal looks better? Both look good but the most noticeable difference is the flicker of the 480i image. At the end of the day, it doesn't really matter what I throw at these monitors - games just look damn frickin' good on them.
>games just look damn frickin' good on them.
The thing is, that's mostly just because they are aperture grille CRTs, not really because they are a PVM.
That plus the high TVL, yeah. I prefer aperture grille tubes, for sure. Got a diamondtron for the PC as well.
Thanks for the replies. Basically, BVMs get insane hype in some circles, and the price sure as hell reflects that - incredibly expensive and hard to get. I'm not looking to pay that much obviously, but if I someday, somehow got the opportunity to pick one up for semi-cheap, I wanted to know how they are beforehand, from someone who actually used them and is not a moronic redditor, who only plays his Mario in 240p. I own two consumer TVs and a 600TVL PVM, the PVM looks great, but it does have noticeably more flicker on 480i. I assume that on BVMs you even start to see scan lines on 480i, due to how high the resolution is?
On my 900 TVLer, yes, the lines are clearly visible at 480i.
600 TVL PVM is a much better retro gaming display than any BVM ever made imo.
One thing I forgot, anyone tried PS1 games on a BVM via composite? I'm curious what that looks like, compared to RGB
It looks really good actually. You get the typical color artifacting and fuzziness you'd expect from composite, however, the resolution of the BVM is too high and dithering is still visible. Compared to RGB, s-video even, it's just not as sharp and doesn't have that "HD" look.
I see, thanks anons. Looks like BVMs are nice to have as one of the CRTs in your collection, not a monitor you'd use everyday
Once again, if the lines disappear then the point of using a BVM is lost.
?
The point isn’t the lines dumbass, it’s the clarity
If the lines disappear so does the clarity.
lol what is this logic
It's common sense.
So, no reasoning then?
Having a larger set also creates blank lines, does that create more clarity?
Yes, that is also common sense. The black lines are creating separation between each scanline resulting in higher clarity.
That's kind of the whole point of measuring TVL.
However if you take it too far and have too much of a mismatch between resolution, screen size, and TVL you get the window blinds effect, which is unsightly.
Ah, now I see
It's the TVL autist carry on
You are moronic. You aren't supposed to see lines at viewing distance. Which is just a few feet. You only see them noticeably with your face against the screen. The point of a BVM is not to play 10 inches away from the screen.
>You aren't supposed to see lines at viewing distance. Which is just a few feet.
Well you're going to see them on a BVM at that distance.
>You only see them noticeably with your face against the screen.
That is not true.
You've never owned a BVM.
I've owned an 800 line Sony PVM-20M4U
which has basically the same performance. You still can easily see the scanlines sitting "a few feet" away. On a 1000 TVL BVM the effect would be stronger.
You can see scanlines on consumer models too, so I never really understood this sentiment.
On my PVM, I can clearly see the scanlines, but they don't look like the massive black gaps in the picture they come across as when you take a photo of the screen. I sit back maybe 4 or 5 feet when I play and they just give everything a bit of a nice texture.
One started emitting a high pitched squeal so I replaced it with the next one when I found it for free. The second one I liked but it was 32" and just too damn big. Ended up giving it to a guy who moved into an apartment with no furniture or anything. This was like 15 years ago, so craigslist was lousy with the things. Last one was 27" which was a perfect size, but it was just really worn out and I didn't have room for it, so I got rid of it when I bought a new LCD.
Sorry it didn't work out with the I'arts. Do you reget not keeping the 27" one?
I mean, it worked out. I used them all a bunch. This was during the Wii era so I was glad to have something that actually made that system look good.
I don't regret getting rid of the 27" because it was really worn, and later that same year I ended up finding a free 20" PVM which I'm still using. I am still on the hunt for something in the 27" range to have as a backup, though. I currently have a 27" D-series which I am not a fan of all and would trade for an i'Art in a heartbeat.
Here's a shot of that exact same scene on the exact same monitor from my last playthrough 5 years ago, but it's the Dreamcast versions via S-video, as opposed to Gamecube via component.
I have i'art and d-series side by side and the i'art looks sharper and has better colors but worse geometry than the d-series. Interlacing is more visible on i'art than the d-series too
Even a 25-32 inch consumer Trinitron looks too sharp for most /vr/ consoles, I have no idea why people want their games to look like an LCD with a shitty filter.
>Picked up dozens of high end CRTs in the 00's and 2010's for free or pennies
>Filled my whole storage with them over time
>Only ever been using a few myself
>Picked a few as backup
>Sold the rest for massive profit
Any chance I could get an invite to the Discord server? I was there in 2021 but I left
Sure
https://discord.com/invite/bhy9UqKe2R
cancer
>all the cancer is on Discord
>meanwhile all the oldgays are on the IRC and Matrix
I have that same exact Panasonic model but in 21''
Has a great picture honestly, I connect my PS2 through component, looks super sharp and clean.
My brother found a crt and gave it to me. Composite looks like crap after playing rgb on my scaler. So I ordered retrovision cables for my master system.
if you mean component cables and you already have RGB on other shit then its cheaper to buy 1 rgb to component converter to feed them all into it. Same end result
The converter requires external power. I would rather pay a little extra to not deal with another cord
I just have a short lead that plugs into a console's USB nearby, it's enough to power it
I would have probably done that too if I had the money to spare. The only bonus using a separate adapter is that you could have them plugged up to RGB and component at the same time using a switch instead of changing the console cables
is the toshiba 27af42 just as good as the a's? i know this model also has a toshiba tube and not orion
They're just as good. The only difference is the Fs are flat tubes.
Okay, real talk now. Who has actually played for at least a couple of minutes on a Sony BVM, both in 240p and 480i? I don't care about theoretical ramblings, screen photos, or YouTube videos. Does anyone here actually see those monitors in person, and have an opinion one way or the other?
I had a BVM that I sold years ago because the prices have gotten so high and I didn't think the difference was worth it. I thought it looked better than anything I've played games on or watched SD content with. But in the end I'm looking at low res content so the extra high TVL felt superfluous
>But in the end I'm looking at low res content so the extra high TVL felt superfluous
This is how I feel. The problem with mega high TVL is the image loses its texture. Some BVMs make the raster look like lines drawn on a vector monitor. That kind of solid color where you don't get the "grain" of the mask just doesn't look right to me.
I have played for hundreds of hours on real PVMs of various types and on Sony aperture grille type PC CRT monitors in 240p120 mode which strongly resembles a BVM's image.
So what do you want to know?
I'll tell you right off they are insanely overrated.
I have a crappy 14 inch Matsui (Curry's own-brand) vcr combo unit that supports RGB over scart.
Although I don't use it, since it has some minor visual issues that I'm too low iq to fix.
If you live in Europe and your CRT doesn't support RGB over scart, you should buy a lottery ticket.
>If you live in Europe and your CRT doesn't support RGB over scart, you should buy a lottery ticket.
see
Maybe in poor countries, in which case you could do with the lottery money to buy a plane or horse ticket out.
are you just
seething and bringing up the topic again because you were wrong?
>multiple people disagree with me, they must be the same poster
Plenty of CRTs with SCART don't have RGB, stop trolling
Just ignore and don't derail the thread.
I already posted
against that same argument once and got ignored, there's no point in bringing it up again.
>Plenty
got proof of that?
What do you consider proof? This isn't some obscure thing
https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comments/kajqrq/does_every_tv_with_scart_support_rgb/
you said plenty
It's rare that it doesn't
same shitty and moronic argument, that's why
also ironic since I'm not even the original anon, so multiple people do disagree with you
you probably have a small sample size, chassis in europe were pretty universal between countries
>eurotards constantly boast how all their sets have RGB in
>turns out it's not even true
top fricking kek
show proof
lol you homosexuals already proved everything with your fighting
A reddit link isn't proof that "plenty" SCART unit's don't have RGB
cope harder eurotard
I already saw enough in that thread to be able to call out your RGB bullshit
I think you need to seek help
>euro
>doesn't even have rgb
priceless
so you do admit not all tvs have RGB, got it
frick off, I never said it's common, only that it's not that rare as people make it seem
Just got a mitsubishi cs-32207. Absolutely no coil whine
I doubt it, might be muted but 15khz should always be
This is definitely the misconceptions troll
>This is definitely the misconceptions troll
he already admited not all tvs with scart have RGB
Go on, post your copypasta
are CRT's meant to be infinitely repairable?
If not, does it make you want to use it extremely sparingly?
nothing is infinite anon
Tubes degrade over time with use, rest of the parts are still easily available online.
>If not, does it make you want to use it extremely sparingly?
I have enough CRTs as backup and service and repair my own CRTs. So I'm not really worried, they are meant to be used, I'll be long dead before I run out of CRTs.
It's not worth worrying about. These things were built to be living room televisions. Even if you're an avid gamer you're not going to be taxing it that much.
i get that, i just figured that it's been around 20 years since people were buying these new, so everything out there has probably already seen a lot of use
Nah, I have bought several new old stock CRTs. Mint in box.
interesting, i wonder if that's possible in Australia
Nah
you're gonna have to look for second hand here
Doesn't matter where you are, you can always get lucky
Picked up a NOS VGA CRT monitor just a month ago for 10 eur
Not here you won't
Anywhere
Trust me anon
not here, everything we had was Imported from SEA
Australia? I've seen people pick up NOS CRTs locally in videos
Wanna post some proof?
If they're getting NOS, it's imported
It's all imported, it was once imported here too, just forgotten in storage or a warehouse
According to the internet, most consumer TVs should have visible wear after 30k hours. So if you get some that's low use (verifiable at least on some Sony's), let's say 10k hours, how long it would take you realistically to run it into the ground? Even playing for 4 hours every single day, that's only 14k hours in 10 years
So lets say I do my diligence and research first before buying a small RGB SCART television from Europe and import it to the USA.
What am I looking at in terms of needing get it going for 110v electricity and 60hz video signals? (this is me doing the research)
Just a power converter, RGB doesn't use encoding like PAL or NTSC, so that doesn't matter, all you need is the right voltage, the frequency doesn't matter even, CRTs have internal clocks, that CRT TVs use line frequency is a myth, only some oscilloscopes and related did.
So 110V to 220V power converter and SCART cables or adapters.
What about the television supporting 60hz video signals?
eBay
just add it to your saved searches enable a push notification when it finally goes live and jump on that b***h that's what I do for rare stuff
RGB mode supports 60Hz by default
>So 110V to 220V power converter
Is that even a thing?
How does it supply more AC voltage than the power point can supply
By converting current to voltage.
" step up transformer circuit"
why don't you just get a heavy ass CRT television that's already in the country you live in?
there are plenty of monitors and televisions that support PAL signals as well as NTSC
I'd like to have an 80s slot or shadow mask CRT in the 14-19" size range with a very curved tube that accepts RGB.
Not so easy to find in the USA.
You won't be able to import such a TVs from another continent. Most people who sell these in Europe have no idea what they're doing. They won't verify anything for you, you'll never know how much wear is on the set, and if RGB 60hz even works, as maybe 1% of people used it back in the day and know what it is. Very expensive freight shipping the thing in a crate? LMAO
>Very expensive freight shipping the thing in a crate?
Unnecessary.
The weight of consumer CRTs is overstated.
A 19" consumer TV weighs less than 40 lbs.
A well padded box would be fine.
That's how you get tubes with broken necks. The box WILL get tossed around in sorting centers, the delivery man won't care to put the box on the correct side and a CRT really shouldn't lie on its back
You worry too much.
You ever actually shipped a 19" CRT ? I have have multiple times. Nothin' happened.
If it did: that's what shipping insurance is for.
>convert rgb to s-video
jobs done, now you have easier targets
P.S. it might be easier to RGB mod a NA set instead of importing from EU. You can add your own SCART port.
>a sub is probably overkill for retro vidya anon
I guarantee you, this is something you'd only say until you actually hear it.
sigh, I had a great big RCA before I bought my PS3. Should have kept it.
Did it have component or RGB?
If not, it probably wasn’t worth keeping
All you need is composite though
Only if you plan on playing up to 4th gen
it had RGB. PS2 games looked good on it but it really shined on NES/SNES games.
so your complaint is that they aren't popular and thats somehow bad
No, I'm saying its weird that one specific product line of JVCs are uniquely popular. Especially considering, like I said earlier, non-D JVCs have the same tubes and what made the D special back in the day was the audio.
it's because you can tell that it's a d-series from a shitty pic from the little branding on the top left. that's it. people dont always take pics of the back so its a guarantee when looking for component inputs. I think that's part of the reason wega trinitrons are so popular too.
I played some of this for the umpteenth time with a friend over the weekend, and every run only endears the game to me even more.
I frigging love the graphics in this game. This is peak usage of polygons to me. And I love how everybody's faces are sprite-based; it makes them a thousand times more expressive than fully 3D faces were at the time. Heck, they're more expressive than most modern games, too. It's easy to overlook, but I think one of the reasons this game has such a cult following is because of how expressive the characters are and how well staged and animated all the cutscenes are. All the characters feel very alive.
The Dreamcast had a shit ton of VRAM even compared to the PS2 so it's textures could be crisp and high res.
I have the gamecube version of this that I picked up back when I was softmodding a wii for fun. I never really dived into it. Should probably do so.
How are the Jvc I art crts? Someone locally wants 25$ for a 27 inch one with its remote.
I forgot to list the model. It's a Av-27f734.
I have one and love it. I also paid around $25 for it and it was very worth it, especially if it has the remote.
Thanks. I'll be sure to pick it up then
I've owned three. They were great.
Yeah, all the best-looking dreamcast games I've seen let the textures do the work.
You'll either love it or not. It's a divisive game because while the mechanics of it are pretty generic, it's got a ton of heart and atmosphere, and the characters are all very likable. A big reason for this is that the localization team basically gutted the script and re-wrote it from scratch, so everyone sounds much more natural and "Western" as opposed to having stilted anime dialogue like most JRPGs.
Damn that's too sharp even
>I've owned three.
What happened to them?
They're great.
>27
Feasibly movable by yourself but it wouldn't hurt if you brought someone else to lighten the load if you can.
Also video from two years ago when I picked up mine.
One think I recently found out that you NEED to do is to turn off (set to zero)the "red push" in the service menu called "NTSC MAT". Said video in catbox still had that red push enabled and I never really saw a problem until I started Majora's Mask and noticed everything seemed very dark on neutral settings.
Look at this video @ 8:40 here for more detail. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yeqzVuWq4_Y
Also, here is my thread posts discussing the issues with pictures.
(Red push on)
(Red push off)
In case those post links don't work.
https://desuarchive.org/vr/thread/10519968/#q10521417 (Red push on)
https://desuarchive.org/vr/thread/10519968/#q10523817 (Red push off)
obligatory
Nasty question but do CRTs attract pests like roaches or bed bugs?
Yes. I constantly have to fumigate my CRT room. I keep roach and insect traps spread around the room, but they really don't seem to help. I've just learned to live with it, lol.
I don't get it, why didn't everyone have roach problems before LCD TVs took off? Do you guys just not clean outdoor finds or something? Do you have an alley couch?
What do CRTs have to do with roaches
That’s a problem where you live
Nobody wants historical revisionism from zoomers, dipshit. Just because your parents probably took care of the bug/roach issue while you blissfully played your Nintendos doesn't mean it wasn't real.
I think you just live in a dirty hovel anon
I only have spiders in my home
Perhaps you should clean more, you sound like the dandruff obsessed troll
The CRTs came with roaches new out of the box because of the manufacturing process.
Yep it’s definitely the troll
less to do with the manufacturing and more with the testing and shipping that occured at separate warehouses, particularly during the 80s and 90s when TV manufacturing was completely overseas. It was much less of an issue for boomers with domestically produced sets in the 50s nad 60s.
There's zero articles describing bug infestations caused by CRTs. Nah, you're the revisionist.
I bought a new old stock CRT in the late 2000s for $20 which was then opened in my bedroom where it remained for half a decade before I moved out with it. Zero roach infestations whatsoever.
This is clearly a forced meme from broke anons thinking it'll tank the value of CRTs. There's no precedent, so it won't.
>This is clearly a forced meme
Actually, it's anons with actual medical autism who can't detect sarcasm.
That's completely correct.
>There's no precedent
Literally just google it. Roaches love warmth and will gather and nest inside of electronics like CRTs or big amplifiers that creates a lot of warmth. It isn't an issue with LCDs or most other modern electronics because they don't really get warm the way older stuff does.
I've opened 20+ used CRTs from various backgrounds and never found dead roaches or their droppings inside. I'm not saying it's not possible, but I think it's less common with CRTs than other pieces of electronics. Bugs seem to prefer game consoles. I've seen a lot of PS1s with roach droppings inside.
Still, one of the first things I'd do with any used CRT I buy is take the back off and check.
>Roaches love warmth and will gather and nest inside of electronics
in addition to this, any piece of old electronic equipment that emits a high frequency either through cathode or transistor tubes will also attract roaches. It used to be that people thought ultrasonic frequencies would drive them away, but really it just kind of excites them and makes them want to find the source. It'll even lure them into your house, especially if it's by a door or window.
Really, the dead giveaway is how many goddamn roach and pest control commercials used to be on TV in the 90s and earlier. Then they just kinda... stopped. When was the last time you heard about Raid? or the Orkin man? Shit used to be everywhere because older TVs literally attracted roaches into homes they wouldn't give a shit about otherwise.
>I've opened 20+ used CRTs
You know how little that is in the grand scheme of things? You may as well say you opened ONE.
>When was the last time you heard about Raid? or the Orkin man?
horror story
from years ago,
have roommates
they always leave food out
they never clean up the fricking crumbs
roaches infested the fishtank in the kitchen
they got into literal AC plug and were breeding inside it
this activity carried over into the plug itself
i still get heebie jeebies thinking about it
when i got my own place
i had to check every item i owned
i bought a comical amount of roachtrapbait
never found anything though
its been almost 3 years now
never again
Correlation is not causation. Your bed is warm, better get rid of that. Your central heating is warm too, that also needs to go to be roach free. Your organs are warm, better disembowel yourself just to be sure.
>it isn't an issue with LCDs
Google it. There are far more documented bugs inside LCDs than CRTs.
There are still pest control commercials, all you've said is you don't watch TV anymore. Good for you, by the way.
The roaches are part of the appeal. It gives the retro smell when they get burnt
Not necessarily the CRT, but your dandruff does. If it gets inside the exhaust vents it can attract roaches and it’s a pain to get rid of
Thats why I take showers now.
Best way to watch downloaded media on a CRT? Like I want to watch rips of 90s/00s media like tv shows, movies, and anime, but they’re on a hard drive.
I use softmodded PS3 but the supported file formats are limited
What graphics card do you have?
6900xt
I use UMS DLNA player and transcode to my 360
Works well enough
This reminds me of something.
Thrift / second-hand stores sometimes have old set-up boxes, the subscription services won't work, but many have proper 480i/567i output, via composite, s-video or SCART and the DLNA client often still works or they have USB connector to play media from. I picked up one once for 5 bucks with remote and AC adapter and used it as a media player for a CRT when I had no better option. Low power too compared to using old consoles.
There was a Roku unit with composite output designed specifically for SD, 4:3 displays not too long ago. You can create a Plex server from a PC and then play everything over wi-fi on the Plex app. Works really well and requires minimal hardware; just a 4-inch rectangle, a power cord, and some RCA cables.
Sadly, demand seems to have gone up. They were only 25 bucks when I got mine and now they're 174. Probably still cheaper than a lot of other potential solutions, but goddamn.
https://www.amazon.com/Roku-Express-Streaming-Player-Composite/dp/B01M2AJZ5P
Post the amp in its full glory, anon. The VU meters are sexy.
>composite
You’re better off using a Pi or 6th gen console, they have RGB output
Pi + component or RGB output hat would do well
Even a older Pi like a Pi 2 would be fine for SD
Considering that most of what I play is just old DVD rips, composite still looks really good, and it doesn't take up an input I'd rather use for a console. Actually, the novelty wore off pretty quick and I got into just watching VHS tapes for the full nostalgia effect.
>25$ usd is now $170usd
guess fiscal irresponsibility over printing all that money was a mistake
i hate the feds
bro just talk about crts instead of whatever dumbass shit that is
>they hated him because he told the truth
Any reason some BS like this wound work?
PS3 is the goated with the sauce media player. It supports every type of video output. Actually I do remember it was a pain to do media streaming for some formats like mkv? But it’s doable
would you rather use a trinitron that only has s-video or a shadow/slot mask with component? (particularly for 6th gen consoles)
Not enough information here for me to make the decision.
Given best case scenarios on both sides I take the trinitron.
i guess to keep things fair/consistent, both would be flat consumer tubes and of similar year and size. the slot mask would also be a top brand (toshiba, jvc, etc.) i'm mostly curious how well s-video aperture grille compares to component on slot masks
old mini pc that has an amd card compatible with crt emudriver works well for plex on a CRT. I use a dell I got off fb marketplace $50.
CRT bros... we won
Picked it up for about $15
looks blue
I just ordered a very expensive ass scart cable for the dreamcast. Game shown is Virtual-On Oratorio Tangram. I can't seem to capture a good pic of it but it's pretty. I really didn't need such a nice scart cable for this. The s-video cable I had was fine.
Odd, the one I got for it is like night and day with the S-Video cable
My six input scart switcher is offically maxxed out. Lel
What switch is that?
Ali express. They have a bigger one that I might bet the future. For now i dont have any mire room for consoles. I also use a toslink switch and component switch. Ali express also has the best scart to component transcoders.
Can't do CRT. High pitched noise gives me headache. Tried 2 times.
Man you just gotta suffer through the coil wine lcds just don't cut it. You need pure 60hz refresh rate.
PC CRTs don't have that audible whine because it's outside of most people's hearing range when it's at 31khz or higher.
>most people
I would say all peoples
with vintage failing capacitors you're gonna hear noises brother
I still can hear the TV if it's left on
my dad used to bust my balls for falling asleep with the crt TV on
yes, we can all hear the 15khz sound it makes anon
A failing capacitor is not the norm for a functioning CRT
i've just been unlucky then
every VGA monitor I bought in the last five years has had the problem
Maybe if I downscale the resolution before sending
I'm not even using it with my PC kek
A VGA monitor should make no internal sounds at all, apart from the expansion and contraction due to heat
Also they are 32khz which is inaudible
changing resolution to hire resolutions causes it to whine
Well of course, because it’s no longer 32khz, you’re pushing it beyond standard spec
I think 800x600 is the standard
ill fiddle w/ it again
i have another toaster pc build im working on
*higher
my voice to text displays correctly then changes it at the last second
makes me feel like a schitzoid
>shitty LED lighting
>cheapo cube shelves
>soulless detolf with consoles on display
>LCD
Wow, it's been so long since I got enraged at this level of shit taste I almost forgot how to do it. I'll at least give you points for running a 16:9 mod instead of just stretching the image to fit the screen.
Roach free setup. Not bad.
Grow up.
>retro gaming cables.co.uk.
that's where I got mine from
really? it's not really that loud at all
https://www.dba.dk/billedroer-prosonic-21t60/id-1110037757/
Is this a good TV? I want a CRT for PS1/PS2 games
Does anyone else find it hard to breathe after playing in a room with that CRT burning smell for a long time?
After a couple of hours, I find the fumes hurt my eyes more than my lungs, but I'm already generally squinting because of the flickering light and the high-pitched whine, so it's really not much of a big deal.
open it up and dust it bro
prob got a layer of baked on dust cookin in there
sometimes my crt touches me in places I don't want it to.
some nerd on fb marketplace finally dropped the price of a dell p991 from 400 to 185.
now thats progress. still overpriced tho
CRTs made me bald!
NO, your physical age made you bald.
A 78 year old man gave this to me the other day for free
v nice
i got a bunch for free too even here in california
>thrift store owner
>tell him its for sega genesis
>he happily shares some gaymen memories and gives me a huge zenith crt with svideo
other time:
>respond to craigslist ad
>drive over with my friend and a large truck
>she finds out its for atari shit
>laughs, "just take it for free, its been years since i ever even heard someone say 'Atari' wow,,,"
other tiem
>sidejob, sweating profusely, get everything done
>free water bottle, chug it
>mention you can 8shitdo the amazon firesticks
>i got an old gaymen tv brother you want it? FREE just take it, it works good!
it was a truetech target brand but i ran it until the speakers failed and got all shittyraspy
HUNT ON BROS
>local thrift store has a Toshiba 32AF45
>looks pretty much mint but the remote doesn't work
>no input button on the TV
>can't check the image unless I get something to hook up to it through coaxial
How hard is it to replace an IR reader on one of these?
>t. exterminator
You just want more business
Composite?
Stop feeding the misconceptions troll
He’s getting you to talk about wienerroaches FFS
Haven't seen a single wienerroach in my whole life, not to mention in electronic devices. Is this an American thing?
the bugs are everywhere
just because you're too autistic to notice them doesn't mean they're not real
the worst bug infestation I've ever seen the people who lived in those homes swore up-and-down that they never saw even one
delusional
convert the signal to S video
congratulations now you don't have to do anything moronic
its just like the cat owners and cat piss smell
it's in your clothes it's in your carpet
y'all motherfrickers have toxoplasmosis
le bugs r undah my skin!!!
my clippers made me bald
and my balls smooth as eggs
sounds bad but maybe its good
the gen1 apple tv had composite/component out also
my pops keeps his to this day as a media server
how long until it catches on fire
i hope you unplug when not in use anon
use 240p test suite and lagtest it
chinese crap sometimes adds latency
thrift stores are notorious for spreading rats/turds/bugs/not cleaning etc
I assume you live in a very cold part of the planet
I've only seen one when I vacationed in California.
Saw some in Vegas Airport a decade ago
It's a cracked foundation thing
has anyone ever rgb modded a crt? how complicated was it? my particular set is supposedly easy (sony trinitron kv20fv12) but it all sounds so daunting
Do not attempt it if you have no experience with electronics or understanding of what does what
Just use S-Video
My trusty monitor I got with my first PC in feb 2001.
stop replying to the roachposter you idiots
Personally I find the roach discourse a thousand times more entertaining than the usual shit you guys bicker about like screen size or scanlines or SCART or whatever.
Of course you do
You’re the one that started it
The roaches started it. I'm just finishing it.
>Enter CRT roach thread
>YT recommends roaches and ants in hardware now
Sigh...
>absolutely-disgusting.jpg
difficult to convey sound
even the shure sm 57 changes tone on mic placement
ill listen in a bit though
i wish we would have saved ours
>sauce is metal orange