>new GW washes are basically Contrast lite
Ughhh does this mean I have to buy like five pots of "old" Reikland Fleshshade
>new GW washes are basically Contrast lite
>new GW washes are basically Contrast lite
Ughhh does this mean I have to buy like five pots of "old" Reikland Fleshshade
Looks like they're the opposite of that, they apply less shading to raised areas, as they ought to
If thats actually how imperial fists covers ill eat my hat
Agreed. I dont habeeb it.
Huge if true.
I got to see it at my local GW this Saturday. It actually covers extremely well from what I saw other people do. I wouldn't use it since I have an airbrush and like more depth to my yellow, but it does actually achieve the look in the image.
So they're basically the same as AP Quickshades now.
The washes in the bottles or the dip in the cans?
And is this a good or a bad thing or both?
The washes in the bottles. I like them. They tend to recede more towards the crevices than Vallejo washes.
Bit disappointed in that Gutrippa Flesh. Guess I'm sticking to Plaguebearer Flesh+Green Tone Quickshade.
The new one looks better. What’s the problem exactly?
shrinkflation in my luxury adult army men space opera war game consumer cult???
Assault on Black Reach launched in a recession and was accessible to highschoolers on allowance. The hobby was until recently oriented towards teenage boys, not manchildren.
Too bad Teenage boys are too busy on ticktock or meth to care nowadays.
I blame Big Meth for making it so damn moorish
Stop being anti-semitic.
>GW wash thread
Since it seems alternatives should be named.
How are AK interactive's washes compared to pre-contrast like washes?
garaghak's sewer might come close to the popularity of nuln oil
I have never been able to get skin to look like that after Reikland Fleshshade. Even thinning it down, it never looks like skin. I stopped trying to paint skin with washes because of the constant problems.
Seems to me if you wanted them to look like the old you just do a 2nd layer
>7 dollars of old wash is now equal to 15-16 dollars if nuGW shade
Thanks Bongs, very cool.
>the "reformulation" was just watering them down
I'm not a mini painter but I hate this kind of paint naming so much. It happens everywhere. I know the reason why they'd call a paint Grisly Entrails instead of Pigment Red #149 but I thought that people would get weary of it rather quickly and favor a more precise naming scheme.
>He still uses GW washes
Bro take the oil wash pill already.
This is the right way to go about it if not using the boring GW Painting System. Costs less, achieves better results, and has more variety. Don't buy the paint from NiG or gAyK. Just mix your own, store them in a glass jar, and don't pay for overpriced convenience that "influencers" constantly push.
what's the source for the OP image?
some blog?
>imperial fists covers incredibly well
I've heard from people who have tried it that IF contrast is literally just the same thing as lamenters yellow glaze just concentrated a lot more. you guys think it's true?
(pic related is apparently 2 coats of lamenters yellow glaze over wraithbone, looks pretty similar to me)
on a side note, do you guys think they finally fixed the issue with contrast paints having the most disgusting "sticky" looking shine to them?
washes/contrast coming out shiny is because you aren't shaking the pot first to mix the matting agent in which splits over time. you should always varnish your models after you are done anyway moron.
Assuming I wanted to start painting miniatures (not WH, just generic shit for roleplaying games) how much money would I need? I have experience as a painter but I know nothing about miniatures except that you paint in washes. Can you mix the colors like in traditional painting and get every possible color out of 3-4 primaries or do the paints not mix well? What is the medium of the paints?
I've probably spent over 200$ on paints from various brands over the last 2 years, and i don't even have many colors like any green.
Dafuq but that doesn't answer it. All companies that sell paints have a range of 3000 different useless paints for secondaries to collect. What I'm asking is, can I get primary red, primary blue, primary yellow plus a white and maybe a couple earth colors and just mix any color with them like you do with actual painting, or are these paints not meant for mixing?
You'd buy some model acrylics but you'll go through them fast if you plan on mixing all your colours. Oil paint is another option. I doubt these washes mix well
Depends on what you want to paint and how convenient you want to go. I'd honestly recommend Citadel paints. Ironically, I am a redshirt but I find them to be perfectly fine for all my painting. I use other brands if I need them, but usually don't because the Citadel stuff works fine. I'm also the oil anon above, so take that how you will. You could easily, easily get away with primary and secondary colors, and just add a lighter color for highlights or something. Just mix, really. As I said, it depends on how much you paint or how much convenience and diversity you want in what you paint.
So, I have to paint an army. I build squads at a time, prime 5, and then use my airbrush to put down a basecoat. If I made a custom color mix, I note it down, then get a larger bottle and just mix the two colors together. I usually just do 1:1 mixes of things unless it's for a highlight or something. It's simple and effective. I'll then finish those five models, using whatever I think will look good. Different colors for different things, etc. I add variety on the individual models by painting their kit different. Then weathering, which is as random as I can but I'm only human.
So, next five guys. Maybe I add a lighter color to another bottle of the 1:1 mixture, which I've poured half into that other bottle. Spray through the airbrush. Variety. Wow! Details. Weathering. Etc. Oils are whatever stage. Etc. Etc.
For generic shit, you can just get away with, well, generic shit. I suppose. I enjoy painting, so I do it a difficult but paradoxically easy way because I've been doing this for two decades.
>Can you mix the colors like in traditional painting and get every possible color out of 3-4 primaries or do the paints not mix well?
Depends on the brand. GW colours in particular are poor for that, they're made from very particular pigment formulae that will more often than not just blend into muddy greys if you try and mix colours like that. If you're hoping to take that approach to mixing, look into Kimera Kolor; largely single-pigment paints, a tad more expensive than other brands (although partly because they come in bottles that are like 2x the volume of most others) but they behave much like your Citadel or Vallejo paints, they just mix nicely
>What is the medium of the paints?
afaik, it's an aqueous acrylic polymer
>GW colours in particular are poor for that, they're made from very particular pigment formulae that will more often than not just blend into muddy greys
knowing GW, I bet this is intentional
>it's an aqueous acrylic polymer
...can't you just use acrylic paint e.g. Liquitex over whatever you use for priming?
>..can't you just use acrylic paint e.g. Liquitex over whatever you use for priming?
Sure? Once it's cured, you can get away with using most types of paint overit provided you don't like drown the model in it
Sure. The only real "requirement" is that it be thin. GW paints come pre-medium'd for different purposes, base coats are more opaque, layers are more transparent and specifically come in shades that are complementary for highlights and lowlights, washes are extra watery to flow into crevices, contrast paints are that, but with more pigment so they fully cover a white or grey base/prime coat. If you can mix up your own colors, flow behaviors, and transparencies, then feel free. Most of us just use off the shelf solutions for ease of use and relevant consistency when you expand your army and want the new ones to be an exact scheme match to what you did months or years ago.
Has anyone used sepia washes from army painter/valejo? How close are they to gws? I use seraphim sepia for a lot of glazing, and the new one is so much lighter it will be entirely different
I use AP Soft Tone a lot. It's good but I can't tell you how close it matches to GW since I stopped using GW washes a long time ago.
Well here's an imgur link that covers the washes primed over white I believe.
https://imgur.com/gallery/mHrHlPv
Oddly enough I think the strong tone recipe has changed as mine looks very different to Agrax Earthshade. But recipes change so I am not too bothered.
But Contrast was just Shade+
You mean a modified ink?
I've heard the army painter washes are alright.
But I've barely seen any use of Vallejo Game washes. Maybe that says enough, but I think they might be fine. Just overshadowed by AP and Citadel washes.
I think Vallejo game washes need to be mixed with water.
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I wonder if the equivalent on dark angels green will still be dog shit.
>priming white
I don't get why people like Reikland Fleshshade. It doesn't even seep into the crevices properly, it makes your guys look like Guidos.