have had mine for nearly 2 years now, no drift. it even still has some rough texture on the sticks. a 360 controller would have been fricked a long time ago. the dualsense is the best controller i've ever used
Everyone says this shit about every single controller yet I've never once had drift on any controllers I own and I've used them extensively. Last time I had a controller joystick get fricked was the notorious loose N64 joystick.
Everyone says this shit about every single controller yet I've never once had drift on any controllers I own and I've used them extensively. Last time I had a controller joystick get fricked was the notorious loose N64 joystick.
Similar. I keep getting failing button membranes more so than stick drift being a problem. It's there, but drift is some what auto-accounted for on startup, with offset deadzones, and worst, widening deadzones.
Only controller I have ever had problem with drift is a 360 controller, after nearly a decade of heavy use, and by far I had more failures of those stupid proprietary dongles for PC than the controllers.
That said, I'd take a crossplatform controller with mechanical switch buttons, hall effect analog, decent gyro, and 2 back paddles. That Gulitech King Kong 2 is very close, but no back paddles, and 8bitdo Ultimate BT only has membrane buttons along with general QC short comings on every other component. Neither have removable batteries either, so it's stupid these devices will claim lifetime on the sticks, when the controller is still subject planned obsolescence with an integrated battery.
>I've never once had drift on any controllers
All controllers that use potentiometers to generate analog signals are going to have this problem, either because dust will inevitably accumulate there, or because of natural wear and tear on the parts. If you have never had any problem of this kind, maybe for some reason there is little dust in the air where you store/use the controllers, but even in this case you will have the problem if you use them enough.
Aside from physically not centering from mechanical fatigue, any joystick problems I get are jitter where it doesn't register all full directions reliably rather than it going outside the center deadzone. I have a 360 wired controller you can't consistently run forward full speed in a lot of games but it doesn't drift.
I swear it's just a zoomer meme. The last time I saw actual drift was a gamecube kiosk at walmart decades ago. You have to be some kind of troglodyte to manhandle a controller to that extent.
>I swear it's just a zoomer meme.
No, moron. It's a problem of general knowledge, widely documented where it's known exactly what are the causes and possible mitigations.
I don't understand why you guys come here posting lies, are you in favor of the corporations that sell garbage to us?
Everyone says this shit about every single controller yet I've never once had drift on any controllers I own and I've used them extensively. Last time I had a controller joystick get fricked was the notorious loose N64 joystick.
>Everyone says this shit about every single controller
Drift became a buzzword since the joycon drift exposure.
yeah sticks drift on every controller eventually. it all depends on how you treat it. usually in multiplayer games they get more abuse but who the frick uses a controller for multiplayer outside of fighting games? and who the frick uses sticks for fighting games? who the frick even plays fighting games?
It doesn't drift because it doesn't use shitty potentiometers but electromagnet sticks instead. Meanwhile Snoy, MS and Nintendo milk their customers with shitty devices you have to replace each year like a good goy.
1 year ago
Anonymous
Oh damn, like the Dreamcast right? Those supposedly never have stick drift. I'm guessing you can't push them down for an L3 or R3 input then?
I've never experienced any drift on the dreamcast, ps2, and gamecube controllers I've used for over 20 years now. The problem is modern controllers being built like dogshit despite going fro 2-3x the price.
Dreamcast and Saturn analog used Hall effect sensors, so they won't drift.
PS1/2 analogs were very imprecise, with large deadzones, so while they technically drift, it would take enormous deterioration before it had an impact.
The problem now is that all of the devices are becoming sensitive/precise enough to matter and functionally outpace the limitations of the technology used.
The joysticks are identical except for being turned 90deg so L3 sprinting (or personally, Border Break crouch canceling) tries to murder them a little less. The DualSense is pretty clearly designed around having a much bigger battery than the DS4 as the priority though, the fat fricking thing.
I never got the battery thing. I can use my DS4 for like 7 hours straight. The best part about is is DS4windows, you can do whatever the frick you want with it, the touchpad becoming a mouse is really useful too. Helped me when emulating wiiU games too.
i had to use DualSenseX to get Metro Exodus Enhanced to work completely with the dualsense. even DS4Windows didn't work but that's just a problem with the game. took way too long to troubleshoot and it's the only ggame where steam input just did not work with the dualsense
Stick shape is somehow worse on DS, your thumb slides way more easily than on DS4. I still don't get why can't they just use Xbox shape, fricking chinks copied it
>on every controller eventually
*AHEM*
and it works way better than any Sony controller.
I never got the battery thing. I can use my DS4 for like 7 hours straight. The best part about is is DS4windows, you can do whatever the frick you want with it, the touchpad becoming a mouse is really useful too. Helped me when emulating wiiU games too.
>DS4W works with Dualsense as well.
Nice, didn't know that. Still not changing my DS4 since it works perfectly and has done so for years. Best PC couch experience.
i had to use DualSenseX to get Metro Exodus Enhanced to work completely with the dualsense. even DS4Windows didn't work but that's just a problem with the game. took way too long to troubleshoot and it's the only ggame where steam input just did not work with the dualsense
Really? The Hide DS4 option didn't work? Or the emulated controller?
90% of the game worked except using the bumpers with certain interactions like scrolling through the backpack or flipping the map around. you absolutely have to disable steam input and use DualSenseX. it's the only complete fix i found and i'm just glad i figured it out
Are you moronic? It's the best stick shape. I used most of current controllers and Xbox SeX had the best sticks (too bad controller itself sucks). Kingkong 2 has decent ones as well. DS4 is meh and Dualsense is even worse.
I did like DS3 sticks tho.
1 year ago
Anonymous
oh sorry, read that as overall pad shape
stick shape and the dpad are about the only good things about it
>controller thread
should i just bite the bullet on a custom elite series 2
i always heard the QC was terrible
also thoughts on buying the accessories kit vs not buying it and just picking up some 3rd party like scuf paddles
When it works its arguably the best controller out there. I have 2. Newest one works fine but the second one I had to open up to "fix". Turns out the bumper buttons just needed some contact cleaner. Cant comment on the scuf paddle thing.
https://xboxdesignlab.xbox.com/en-us/configure/xbox-elite-wireless-controller-series-2
It's a disk-shaped pad that still registers in 4 directions, like a Genesis/Saturn pad or Xbox 360/Hueg controller, but feels a bit more clicky than either. The fully equipped Elite 2 comes with a cross-shaped pad that you can replace it with so it functions identically to a regular Xbox One controller. Microsoft really didn't perfect this kind of "radar-dish" style dpad until the Series X controller, which is unfortunately not reflected in the Elite's design.
Xbox Elite S2 is fantastic all around, its my day to day PC gaming controller and has been since near its release. Still works perfectly, mine didn't have any QC problems but if you get one that does, many can be fixed easily or failing that just return it. . >accessory kit vs scuf
This is new to go along with the cheaper "core" version without any of the extras It seems. Mine came with the accessory kit and I HIGHLY suggest getting it. Kind of nice they have custom color shit for the accessories too.
The kit really is worthwhile and yeah, get the complete one. SCUF stuff is okay I guess but doesn't replicate all the stuff you get in the kit or its style (ie scuf paddles are straight and flat and made for their different mounting system, Elite S2 are contoured and also made of metal ) The kit comes with a case that holds all the accessories + a charging contact dock thing and its well designed as you can charge the controller while its in the case and zipped closed! There's a little portal grommet thing passthrough that lets you plug the USB-C cable into the dock; the cable also comes with the kit. Some of the big features for controller options themselves are the swappable Dpads both the "faceted" 8-way and the "cross"; these are metallic and feel quite nice. Swappable thumbstick tops in a variety of heights and with both convex and concave domes give you options there. The rear button paddles are independent and you can have up to 4 of them attached at a time; they'er metallic like the dpad too. So yeah, if you can afford it definitely get the full accessory kit; you can always pick up the SCUF caps/paddles/circle later if you want >Other high end controllers - Dual Sense Edge
The one major competitor for the Elite S2 is coming out at the end of Jan, the DualSense Edge. Has a similar accessory kit too. It has some tradeoffs and benefits, but worth taking a look.
i mainly didnt want to get the accessories pack because i had already tried the different height thumbsticks at a friends house and didnt care much for them and i dont see a huge convenience in the charging dock versus just plugging my shit in
what i really liked were having the paddles
My wife bought me the Halo Elite Series 2 controller on a whim about a year ago and it's pretty decent, though I definitely wouldn't have paid full price myself. Clearly, the big draw is the back paddles, and those are absolutely the best I've used compared to Valve and 8bitdo controllers, and they basically replace my use of the face buttons in FPS games. The triggers are great and the sticks all have a great feel to them, especially when you adjust the tension and the caps for the genre of game you're playing. The dpad is totally fine for platformers but I still prefer the Series X or DS4 pad; I've got a big shoot-em-up library on my Series X and even with the disc-styled d-pad cover I find myself wishing I could use my Saturn pad or Raion instead of my Elite for more precision.
The QC issues are not a meme, but they're no worse than any other third-party "premium" controller. Although the back paddles help minimize this issue, my face buttons sometimes don't register unless I've pressed them at just the right angle; they will work consistently but I have to adjust if I've been using another controller. My right trigger squeaks a bit if I set up the trigger stop, and there's definitely a bit of drift developing on the left stick which fortunately can still be hid under a deadzone.
I treat this thing like gold due to its price and status as a gift though she'd buy me another one if I asked so I only really use it when I'm using my Xbox, which is only about 15% of my time compared to my PC and Steam Deck usage these days. It might be worth the price if you get it as a daily driver, but with the caveat that you might need to RMA it through Microsoft sometime in the next couple years if a defect appears. If you buy it, you should definitely get the accessories kit because otherwise there's no real point to the controller without the fun of customizing it to match your preferences for each game.
Compared to the stock controllers they feel like a lot higher quality, even compared to the V1 the V2 feels a lot better, and the QC is a lot better on the V2, my first V1 had an issue with start button not registering 70% of the time so I returned it, and then after about 6 months the rubber grips started coming off. I haven't had any issues with the V2.
>even compared to the V1 the V2 feels a lot better
Are you comparing the Elite Series 2 to the Elite Series 1 or was there an internal revision within the Elite Series 2 line I wasn't aware of? In any case I agree my Elite Series 2 controller fantastic feel and weight to them, especially with the metallic finish, but I still feel like I can get a better response out of my stock Series X pad, even after I beat it to death as my PC daily driver a year before getting my Xbox.
since this is the controller thread I just want to say how fricking baffling this is. Anyone that knows knows how shit the battery life is going to be on this thing. Was going to pick one up on launch but know I might just wait.
Is this really going to be a problem? Assuming that its going to be able to be plugged in to be charged while playing if desired, and apparently will charge-in-case like the Elite S2 (I do want to see how they're doing this) I'm more concerned about some of their other features and how they will work particularly on PC or the possibility of only allowing 2 rear paddles to be used at a time etc..vs battery life. If the Edge has battery life even somewhat comparable to the standard DualSense and/or Xbox X/S / Elite S2 , then it will be suitable given both have hours of continuous play
It's amazing how this shit costs more than an Elite Series 2 and yet has less features. Sony's really learned nothing from Microsoft's mistakes. Only benefit of this design that I can see are the swappable stick modules, which I'm sure will cost an arm and a leg.
It has all the elite features except a radial dpad and two extra back buttons, but in return you get gyro, the touchpad, haptic triggers, and hd rumble.
It's overpriced to shit still, but the elite is a straight up ripoff.
I would unironically pay 100+ bucks for a wireless Gamecube controller with Dinput and Xinput support along with an LB and select button. The one you posted almost had me until I saw that it didn't have analogue triggers with a button at the end like the original controllers had
I still use daily the original Xbox controller on PC that I bought around 2005, and except the worn off rubber on the sticks, it's still going strong after thousands hours of use. If this replica is well built I may buy it as a replacement.
Mine started having that "drifting" problem after about 1 month of use. That's what made me lose hope in modern controllers.
I sprayed WD40 on the analogs sticks, did a procedure of squeezing each analog and rotating them, and then stored it in a clean place for several months. Today it is working fine again, but it is a matter of time before the potentiometers start having the same problem.
The industry needed to move away from this shit. Even my Logitech g920 steering wheel presented the same problem with the potentiometers, which caused the equivalent of "drifting" but in the gas pedal. I had to disassemble the whole shit, clean everything and spray the miraculous WD40, which fixed the problem, but again it is a temporary solution...
I hate modern devices.
There're chinese pads with electromagnetc sticks like Kingkong 2 and 8Bit Pro (or whatever it's called). They're usually cheaper too but can have quality issues since, well, it's still chinkshit.
i've been using my PS4 controller for 8 years, both on PS4 and on PC and it has zero issues
i bought another one just in case a year ago, but it's still in the box
the ps4 controller that came with my console worked fine for 4 years, got ruined in a flood that hit my home a few back. Since then Ive been through 3 controllers all getting drift within a year despite handling them well. Hell my first controller went through more “abuse” and was fine but these new first party ones fall apart too damn easily
I notice a bit of drift on my DS4 if I use the analog stick as a mouse but I haven't noticed it in any games because I assume its so minor that the movement isn't even registered by most games
What controller is the best for extremely precise d-pad intensive games?
There's a game I can't beat because of my ds4. Fighting games are unplayable. >down turns into down+left/right >try down+right, turns into right
Are the plastics on the thumbsticks suppose to be crappy? Last time I owned one of these controllers whatever glue that was suppose to hold it together wore off and kept moving around when I played a game, made shit irritating to use. I didnt even use it more then a month
I need a new controller strictly for use with my PC. Something general-purpose that is good for both 2D and 3D games. So it needs to have a good d-pad, has to have usable analogue sticks, and it needs to have gyro.
I'm considering going with a PS4 or PS5 controller but IDK. I've never held either one.
They had gone down in price but Sony raised them back up during the pandemic era back when they started manufacturing PS4's again.
Bought a DualSense instead, very good controller for PC
bad ergonomics and buttons, sex controller is better
I do have the One controller too, as a left hander, I prefer the DS, it is a bigger controller too. Perfect for my hands' size too
How? I play SNES with it and it is so good
I have spare units that I can weld on and I play less than 3 hours a week
so you don't use Sony brand controllers ?
>no gyro
lol
Enjoy your drift in 2 or 3 months.
have had mine for nearly 2 years now, no drift. it even still has some rough texture on the sticks. a 360 controller would have been fricked a long time ago. the dualsense is the best controller i've ever used
Don't be a fricking gorilla.
Everyone says this shit about every single controller yet I've never once had drift on any controllers I own and I've used them extensively. Last time I had a controller joystick get fricked was the notorious loose N64 joystick.
Same. Buttons fail (especially DS2 and 3) but I never had a problem with D-sticks, unless they were really dirty.
Similar. I keep getting failing button membranes more so than stick drift being a problem. It's there, but drift is some what auto-accounted for on startup, with offset deadzones, and worst, widening deadzones.
Only controller I have ever had problem with drift is a 360 controller, after nearly a decade of heavy use, and by far I had more failures of those stupid proprietary dongles for PC than the controllers.
That said, I'd take a crossplatform controller with mechanical switch buttons, hall effect analog, decent gyro, and 2 back paddles. That Gulitech King Kong 2 is very close, but no back paddles, and 8bitdo Ultimate BT only has membrane buttons along with general QC short comings on every other component. Neither have removable batteries either, so it's stupid these devices will claim lifetime on the sticks, when the controller is still subject planned obsolescence with an integrated battery.
We'll never win
Mutts throw their controllers against the wall everytime they die ingame so they don't last as long for them.
>I've never once had drift on any controllers
All controllers that use potentiometers to generate analog signals are going to have this problem, either because dust will inevitably accumulate there, or because of natural wear and tear on the parts. If you have never had any problem of this kind, maybe for some reason there is little dust in the air where you store/use the controllers, but even in this case you will have the problem if you use them enough.
Aside from physically not centering from mechanical fatigue, any joystick problems I get are jitter where it doesn't register all full directions reliably rather than it going outside the center deadzone. I have a 360 wired controller you can't consistently run forward full speed in a lot of games but it doesn't drift.
I swear it's just a zoomer meme. The last time I saw actual drift was a gamecube kiosk at walmart decades ago. You have to be some kind of troglodyte to manhandle a controller to that extent.
>I swear it's just a zoomer meme.
No, moron. It's a problem of general knowledge, widely documented where it's known exactly what are the causes and possible mitigations.
I don't understand why you guys come here posting lies, are you in favor of the corporations that sell garbage to us?
>Everyone says this shit about every single controller
Drift became a buzzword since the joycon drift exposure.
Xbox controller interfaces with Windows natively. Trying to jury-rig a dualshock to work is peak Snoy moronation
It's ok but
>big and heavy
>shitty dpad
>shitty sticks' shape
>sticks will drift eventually
I personally find DS4 a better controller.
yeah sticks drift on every controller eventually. it all depends on how you treat it. usually in multiplayer games they get more abuse but who the frick uses a controller for multiplayer outside of fighting games? and who the frick uses sticks for fighting games? who the frick even plays fighting games?
>on every controller eventually
*AHEM*
probably doesn't drift because it never gets used
It doesn't drift because it doesn't use shitty potentiometers but electromagnet sticks instead. Meanwhile Snoy, MS and Nintendo milk their customers with shitty devices you have to replace each year like a good goy.
Oh damn, like the Dreamcast right? Those supposedly never have stick drift. I'm guessing you can't push them down for an L3 or R3 input then?
you can
My little ass thumb aint ever gonna reach that left stick
I've never experienced any drift on the dreamcast, ps2, and gamecube controllers I've used for over 20 years now. The problem is modern controllers being built like dogshit despite going fro 2-3x the price.
Dreamcast and Saturn analog used Hall effect sensors, so they won't drift.
PS1/2 analogs were very imprecise, with large deadzones, so while they technically drift, it would take enormous deterioration before it had an impact.
The problem now is that all of the devices are becoming sensitive/precise enough to matter and functionally outpace the limitations of the technology used.
The joysticks are identical except for being turned 90deg so L3 sprinting (or personally, Border Break crouch canceling) tries to murder them a little less. The DualSense is pretty clearly designed around having a much bigger battery than the DS4 as the priority though, the fat fricking thing.
I never got the battery thing. I can use my DS4 for like 7 hours straight. The best part about is is DS4windows, you can do whatever the frick you want with it, the touchpad becoming a mouse is really useful too. Helped me when emulating wiiU games too.
i had to use DualSenseX to get Metro Exodus Enhanced to work completely with the dualsense. even DS4Windows didn't work but that's just a problem with the game. took way too long to troubleshoot and it's the only ggame where steam input just did not work with the dualsense
Stick shape is somehow worse on DS, your thumb slides way more easily than on DS4. I still don't get why can't they just use Xbox shape, fricking chinks copied it
and it works way better than any Sony controller.
DS4W works with Dualsense as well.
>DS4W works with Dualsense as well.
Nice, didn't know that. Still not changing my DS4 since it works perfectly and has done so for years. Best PC couch experience.
Really? The Hide DS4 option didn't work? Or the emulated controller?
90% of the game worked except using the bumpers with certain interactions like scrolling through the backpack or flipping the map around. you absolutely have to disable steam input and use DualSenseX. it's the only complete fix i found and i'm just glad i figured it out
>I still don't get why can't they just use Xbox shape
because it's fricking horrible
Are you moronic? It's the best stick shape. I used most of current controllers and Xbox SeX had the best sticks (too bad controller itself sucks). Kingkong 2 has decent ones as well. DS4 is meh and Dualsense is even worse.
I did like DS3 sticks tho.
oh sorry, read that as overall pad shape
stick shape and the dpad are about the only good things about it
Has no back buttons which the DS4 does have if you buy the accessory which isn't expensive.
No they are shit.
Bad handling, terrible battery life, bad input delay when wired, bad durability.
it's the best for retro games imo, they kinda screwed up the dpad on the dual sense
Just buy a Chinese replica for 20 bucks.
Idiot, they are bad and the stick have a 0-100 only sensitivity and 8 axis only
*sticks
>controller thread
should i just bite the bullet on a custom elite series 2
i always heard the QC was terrible
also thoughts on buying the accessories kit vs not buying it and just picking up some 3rd party like scuf paddles
When it works its arguably the best controller out there. I have 2. Newest one works fine but the second one I had to open up to "fix". Turns out the bumper buttons just needed some contact cleaner. Cant comment on the scuf paddle thing.
https://xboxdesignlab.xbox.com/en-us/configure/xbox-elite-wireless-controller-series-2
shit. was trying to link the controller I had saved.
what the frick is this d pad anyways? is it even a d pad?
What's so weird about it? It's just a normal disc shaped 4 contacts dpad
It's a disk-shaped pad that still registers in 4 directions, like a Genesis/Saturn pad or Xbox 360/Hueg controller, but feels a bit more clicky than either. The fully equipped Elite 2 comes with a cross-shaped pad that you can replace it with so it functions identically to a regular Xbox One controller. Microsoft really didn't perfect this kind of "radar-dish" style dpad until the Series X controller, which is unfortunately not reflected in the Elite's design.
Xbox Elite S2 is fantastic all around, its my day to day PC gaming controller and has been since near its release. Still works perfectly, mine didn't have any QC problems but if you get one that does, many can be fixed easily or failing that just return it. .
>accessory kit vs scuf
This is new to go along with the cheaper "core" version without any of the extras It seems. Mine came with the accessory kit and I HIGHLY suggest getting it. Kind of nice they have custom color shit for the accessories too.
The kit really is worthwhile and yeah, get the complete one. SCUF stuff is okay I guess but doesn't replicate all the stuff you get in the kit or its style (ie scuf paddles are straight and flat and made for their different mounting system, Elite S2 are contoured and also made of metal ) The kit comes with a case that holds all the accessories + a charging contact dock thing and its well designed as you can charge the controller while its in the case and zipped closed! There's a little portal grommet thing passthrough that lets you plug the USB-C cable into the dock; the cable also comes with the kit. Some of the big features for controller options themselves are the swappable Dpads both the "faceted" 8-way and the "cross"; these are metallic and feel quite nice. Swappable thumbstick tops in a variety of heights and with both convex and concave domes give you options there. The rear button paddles are independent and you can have up to 4 of them attached at a time; they'er metallic like the dpad too. So yeah, if you can afford it definitely get the full accessory kit; you can always pick up the SCUF caps/paddles/circle later if you want
>Other high end controllers - Dual Sense Edge
The one major competitor for the Elite S2 is coming out at the end of Jan, the DualSense Edge. Has a similar accessory kit too. It has some tradeoffs and benefits, but worth taking a look.
i mainly didnt want to get the accessories pack because i had already tried the different height thumbsticks at a friends house and didnt care much for them and i dont see a huge convenience in the charging dock versus just plugging my shit in
what i really liked were having the paddles
>Check DSE price
>200 fricking dollars, 230 euros
Jesus H. Christ what the actual frick
My wife bought me the Halo Elite Series 2 controller on a whim about a year ago and it's pretty decent, though I definitely wouldn't have paid full price myself. Clearly, the big draw is the back paddles, and those are absolutely the best I've used compared to Valve and 8bitdo controllers, and they basically replace my use of the face buttons in FPS games. The triggers are great and the sticks all have a great feel to them, especially when you adjust the tension and the caps for the genre of game you're playing. The dpad is totally fine for platformers but I still prefer the Series X or DS4 pad; I've got a big shoot-em-up library on my Series X and even with the disc-styled d-pad cover I find myself wishing I could use my Saturn pad or Raion instead of my Elite for more precision.
The QC issues are not a meme, but they're no worse than any other third-party "premium" controller. Although the back paddles help minimize this issue, my face buttons sometimes don't register unless I've pressed them at just the right angle; they will work consistently but I have to adjust if I've been using another controller. My right trigger squeaks a bit if I set up the trigger stop, and there's definitely a bit of drift developing on the left stick which fortunately can still be hid under a deadzone.
I treat this thing like gold due to its price and status as a gift though she'd buy me another one if I asked so I only really use it when I'm using my Xbox, which is only about 15% of my time compared to my PC and Steam Deck usage these days. It might be worth the price if you get it as a daily driver, but with the caveat that you might need to RMA it through Microsoft sometime in the next couple years if a defect appears. If you buy it, you should definitely get the accessories kit because otherwise there's no real point to the controller without the fun of customizing it to match your preferences for each game.
Compared to the stock controllers they feel like a lot higher quality, even compared to the V1 the V2 feels a lot better, and the QC is a lot better on the V2, my first V1 had an issue with start button not registering 70% of the time so I returned it, and then after about 6 months the rubber grips started coming off. I haven't had any issues with the V2.
>even compared to the V1 the V2 feels a lot better
Are you comparing the Elite Series 2 to the Elite Series 1 or was there an internal revision within the Elite Series 2 line I wasn't aware of? In any case I agree my Elite Series 2 controller fantastic feel and weight to them, especially with the metallic finish, but I still feel like I can get a better response out of my stock Series X pad, even after I beat it to death as my PC daily driver a year before getting my Xbox.
>Are you comparing the Elite Series 2 to the Elite Series 1
Yeah.
they are poor quality too
since this is the controller thread I just want to say how fricking baffling this is. Anyone that knows knows how shit the battery life is going to be on this thing. Was going to pick one up on launch but know I might just wait.
Sony has completely forgotten that the game consoles and peripherals they sell are used to play games. Baffling and hilarious but here it is.
Is this really going to be a problem? Assuming that its going to be able to be plugged in to be charged while playing if desired, and apparently will charge-in-case like the Elite S2 (I do want to see how they're doing this) I'm more concerned about some of their other features and how they will work particularly on PC or the possibility of only allowing 2 rear paddles to be used at a time etc..vs battery life. If the Edge has battery life even somewhat comparable to the standard DualSense and/or Xbox X/S / Elite S2 , then it will be suitable given both have hours of continuous play
It's amazing how this shit costs more than an Elite Series 2 and yet has less features. Sony's really learned nothing from Microsoft's mistakes. Only benefit of this design that I can see are the swappable stick modules, which I'm sure will cost an arm and a leg.
if only these little homies weren't $10 but we gotta remember sony lives in fantasy land
It has all the elite features except a radial dpad and two extra back buttons, but in return you get gyro, the touchpad, haptic triggers, and hd rumble.
It's overpriced to shit still, but the elite is a straight up ripoff.
I fricking hate one plate dpads.Thanks for listening.
HERE COMES A NEW CHALLENGER
>PRESS T AT ANY TIME TO TRANSITION
I would unironically pay 100+ bucks for a wireless Gamecube controller with Dinput and Xinput support along with an LB and select button. The one you posted almost had me until I saw that it didn't have analogue triggers with a button at the end like the original controllers had
Some dude built a wireless conversion pcb for the GC
No extras though
The classics are returning
I still use daily the original Xbox controller on PC that I bought around 2005, and except the worn off rubber on the sticks, it's still going strong after thousands hours of use. If this replica is well built I may buy it as a replacement.
I still prefer PS1 style controller
$60 for a 4-hour battery life and peeling analog sticks, what a deal
>peeling analog sticks
Wash your nasty hands
Mine started having that "drifting" problem after about 1 month of use. That's what made me lose hope in modern controllers.
I sprayed WD40 on the analogs sticks, did a procedure of squeezing each analog and rotating them, and then stored it in a clean place for several months. Today it is working fine again, but it is a matter of time before the potentiometers start having the same problem.
The industry needed to move away from this shit. Even my Logitech g920 steering wheel presented the same problem with the potentiometers, which caused the equivalent of "drifting" but in the gas pedal. I had to disassemble the whole shit, clean everything and spray the miraculous WD40, which fixed the problem, but again it is a temporary solution...
I hate modern devices.
There're chinese pads with electromagnetc sticks like Kingkong 2 and 8Bit Pro (or whatever it's called). They're usually cheaper too but can have quality issues since, well, it's still chinkshit.
i've been using my PS4 controller for 8 years, both on PS4 and on PC and it has zero issues
i bought another one just in case a year ago, but it's still in the box
For me it's the joycons
Can't get the capture button to work though
the ps4 controller that came with my console worked fine for 4 years, got ruined in a flood that hit my home a few back. Since then Ive been through 3 controllers all getting drift within a year despite handling them well. Hell my first controller went through more “abuse” and was fine but these new first party ones fall apart too damn easily
so am i insane or are adaptive triggers a gimmick?
Not only a gimmick but it's a great way to kill your controller since Dualsense has fricking plastic mechanism, it'll break super fast.
yeah i don't think it's worth it especially with the vibrations. it's cool and all but i don't trust it the controller to take that for very long
I notice a bit of drift on my DS4 if I use the analog stick as a mouse but I haven't noticed it in any games because I assume its so minor that the movement isn't even registered by most games
What controller is the best for extremely precise d-pad intensive games?
There's a game I can't beat because of my ds4. Fighting games are unplayable.
>down turns into down+left/right
>try down+right, turns into right
Are the plastics on the thumbsticks suppose to be crappy? Last time I owned one of these controllers whatever glue that was suppose to hold it together wore off and kept moving around when I played a game, made shit irritating to use. I didnt even use it more then a month
I need a new controller strictly for use with my PC. Something general-purpose that is good for both 2D and 3D games. So it needs to have a good d-pad, has to have usable analogue sticks, and it needs to have gyro.
I'm considering going with a PS4 or PS5 controller but IDK. I've never held either one.
try 70€, I bought a used PS4 Pro for 250€ and I had no idea I needed an original Sony DS4 to initialize the console, it was sad and pathetic