>fixes your carts and consoles like nothing ever happened
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>fixes your carts and consoles like nothing ever happened
>fixes your carts and consoles like nothing ever happened
It's All Fucked Shirt $22.14 |
Shopping Cart Returner Shirt $21.68 |
It's All Fucked Shirt $22.14 |
bump
Just use isopropyl alcohol
wrong. toothpaste works much better.
Pretty sure this is just isopropyl alcohol with some extra unspecified chemicals that loosen the corrosion
nerve gas
What's so special about that shit? Cleaning contacts? Why not use some isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip? Wouldn't that sufficiently clean any contacts?
Boomers think that WD40 is magic and will do anything, when there's shitloads of things it cannot do (like fixing bent or deformed pins), or things it will actively do the opposite of (lubricate).
There's nobody saying that. Who's a boomer, your dad? So a boomer is anybody but you, isn't it. Stop saying stupid things. Do better.
I do mean people in that age group, and I have seen them ruin bicycles, instruments, tools, and guns, because they thought all the needed to take care of anything was a spraycan of WD40.
This is kind of true. I’ve upset many boomers by explaining that wd40 is itself not a lubricant but intended to clean the metal prior to applying new lubricant. The other thing that pisses them off is the fact that there is no such thing as 220 volt electricity, it’s 240. People born before 1970 are just hopeless.
Yeah, it’s a penetrating oil and water dispersant primarily, as a compound it’s honestly brilliant but by weight percent it’s mostly not a lubricant, it’s made with very volatile (meaning chemical volatility not explosiveness) hydrocarbons which evaporate quickly, leaving behind a little bit of lubricant but not one you’d want as your primary lubricating compound. It’s very good at getting rust out of stuff like window rails. The electrical contact spray is great for old or really new wall outlets that don’t take to plugs well also, I use it for that.
t. Chem e
There must have been commercials in the 70s or 80s where wd40 called itself a lubricant because damn near 100% of that age group truly believes that lubrication is the purpose. I used to work with 70 year olds and they all thought this about wd40.
Yeah it’s almost overwhelmingly with boomers, I’m like what do you think WD stands for motherfricker
>"Anon, my Winchester is so stiff, it's starting to get really tough for my old hands to operate the action these days."
>look at uncle's rifle
>his approach has basically just been to 'clean' it with WD40 and a rag, and if it ever started getting stiff he would 'lube' it with more WD40
>this would penetrate and soften up the hardened residue, freeing up the mechanics so that it felt smoother for a while, and pushing the gunk further into available crannies
>doing this for 20 years, he eventually builds up enough that there's no space for this gummed up gunk anymore and his regular fix stops working
>can just about peel out outlines of corners and crevices if I'm careful, but I need to dissolve all this shit
>he struggles to accept that WD40 isn't a magical all-in-one mechanical agent, reluctantly accepts the bottle of Hoppes No.9 which I give him
>eventually goes back to his WD40 method
>checking it out years later, it's noticeably stiffer than after I cleaned it for him
The WD40 people themselves will tell you it's not a lubricant, and that it's a temporary side effect to its primary function, which is penetrating. It's good for softening up rust and dried crud in seized up mechanics, but you should clean the stuff off and then use a real oil or grease for lubrication afterwards. WD40 offers virtually zero rust protection.
Here's an example from a boomer forum:
http://www.aldeer.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3991582&page=1
By boomer forum, I mean the kinds of boomers who are serious and experienced enthusiasts about their interests, who know shit (which they can teach you), and don't default to cliches and memes for solutions.
Don't make WD40 do jobs it's not supposed to do.
>The WD40 people themselves will tell you it's not a lubricant
>https://www.wd40.com/
>WD-40® Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and lubricates almost anything.
lmfao. It's hilarious how you dumb kids will just say whatever bullshit you think makes you look right, without the slightest bit of knowledge or shame. And then cry when a grownup calls your bullshit.
Could have sworn they used to say that its lubrication usage is limited and not its main purpose, but it does indeed not say this on their myth section, not even in the oldest archived version I could find.
https://web.archive.org/web/20190805212703/https://www.wd40.com/myths-legends-fun-facts/
So I'll concede that this specific claim is wrong, and that you're right about this part.
What I will still maintain however, is that it's far from the best lubricant for numerous applications, and that people don't seldom use it as a panacea for any and all kinds of maintenance. WD40 contains paraffin which can build up over time if the old WD40 is not cleaned out.
I'm pretty sure your safe sticking with those general statements that no one else has brought up, let alone argued against.
>I concede that I was wrong
No shit homosexual you thought wd40 wasn't lubricant
>then I'll move the goalposts so I can still pretend to be intelligent
homosexual zoomie, just shut the frick up
I use it on my car door and outside doors. Sometimes to grease my bike chain, but that's probably not as healthy as just using grease, but it's less of a hassle. Works like a charm anyway.
I also like to use it outside doors. People then slip on it because it's not a lubricant.
>rust preventives
ok. where do i buy EEZOX or whatever it's called? and can i use it on boring ass window panels and locks?
>or things it will actively do the opposite of (lubricate).
Just because the instructions for your fleshlight say "do not use WD-40" doesn't mean it's not lube.
>I’ve upset many boomers by "explaining" things I don't understand
This isn't a boomer thing. It's an intelligent/knowledgeable thing. It was bad enough when you were That Kid™ who would run around annoying every adult in the room by interrupting them and saying "Did you know [random well known fact you learned that day]". They'd politely tell you what a smart little child you were to get rid of you. Kind, but quite harmful, as it fed your penchant for getting approval for parroting things you're told but don't understand. But now you're a grown (out) man (child) and no one has time for your shit. Especially when it's not even trivial facts you learned at grade school, but rather moronic hot takes of misinformation you learned from tiktok. Case in point:
>the fact that there is no such thing as 220 volt electricity, it’s 240.
How colossally ignorant do you have to be to even entertain the possibility that statement is true? Even if you were unaware that 220 is used in many places, do you imagine that numbers work differently for electricity than they do for everything else? "118,119,220, oh noes I'm counting in electricity, it should have been 240". You upset people because you're an annoying pseud. Probably many other reasons as well, but none of them being that you're correct about anything.
The stuff in OP is just contact cleaner liquid made by the WD40 brand (which is produced by Wurth industries), not actual WD40.
It's better than rubbing alcohol. It has solvents in that are specifically intended to dissolve corrosion on copper parts. The sray action also washes the grime away. Good stuff. And yes it's better than rubbing alcohol. I just used it today on my PS2 and gamecube. The instructions do specify that your system should be powered off and unplugged until it evaporates. So that's something to watch out for.. the liquid might be conductive. So don't just go saying it on your system while it's powered on..
The stuff worked great for me. I also disassembled a gamecube controller and sprayed it on the analog boxes for the thumbsticks that were drifting. I also hit those analog stick boxes (exposed after taking the shell apart) with some d100l after using the wd40 contact cleaner. I worked the sticks around in circles a bunch of times. Its good as new.
ah more Product™ to buy ty OP another non-issue solved
youre either buying this, alcohol, or something else moron. youre not cleaning it with water.
>no you may NOT buy products
Yes and alcohol, much like a kitchen knife, is a common household item. I'm sure you buy every chinesium piece of shit you get advertised to, though.
The contact cleaner might be pretty good, I'd have to try it and see. Just don't expect it to be magic.
I say this because twice wdboomer graced me twice from incidents
>Buy jp Metroid fusion
>Comes in the mail. Turn it on get the first level and save
>Turn it back on later, doesn't save
> Clean with alcohol, still doesn't save
>Go back on mecari, find in one of the descriptions they spray wd40 on cartridges and consoles
> Open up the back and spray it directly on the epprom
>Turn it back on
>Saves
The thing I like most about wd 40 contact cleaner is that you can shoot it at your board. Just shoot and brush. And surprisingly, most broken shit on eBay really does come back to life with a good scrub. If there are any ingredients other than IPA in this cleaner, it all evaporates away
It's good for other things, though for something as small as a cart/console some basic rubbing alcohol usually does the trick.
>makes your games just like new and makes youtubers sseth
>WD40 isn't a lubrica-
the sds says wd40 contact cleaner is a mix of iso alcohol, white gasoline (heptane if you wanna get technical, but it's the same thing), and propellant
so a mix of isopropanol and a little Coleman camp fuel or mineral spirits oughta do the same thing
btw technically the primary feature of wd40 original formula is water displacement
you see water is held in microscopic cracks and imperfections of the metal by capillary action, the same way solder gets sucked in
removing this embedding moisture is hard
the problem is worst on rusty metal which is porous and eats new microcracks
so wd40 is a cheat code to get this capillary moisture out without needing to, for example, put the part in oven and heat it up, which may be inconvenient or impossible
that is the purpose of wd40
anything outside that specific application can be considered a happy side effect where an alternative product will likely work much better
i should also mention that lanolin (sheeps wool, also sold in auto parts stores as fluid film) is both an excellent capillary water displacer AND rust preventative, so that's why it's preferred when spraying rusty car underbodies
I picked up a can of this wd40 electric contact cleaner last week. The only thing the wd40 product is missing compared to deoxit d5 is mineral oil. I'm sure it would be easy to apply your own mineral oil to contacts if you wanted.
It's much cheaper than the deoxit D5 spray I've used in the past. This d5 spray is also great but it gets little expensive. The d100l stuff with a small applicator brush lasts much longer. So I'll probably be using a combination of wd40 electric contact cleaner and deoxit d100l for lubrication.
3M as a company is dead.
WD-40 stands for "Water Displacer: 40th Formulation". It should only apply to their Water Displacer of the 40th formulation. Nothing else.
But here we see it used as a brand name first and foremost. Completely separate from the product.
To further this point. WD-40 is no longer allowed (in Canada) to have it's classic formulation. So at best, any cans of WD-40 bought in Canada from hereon forward will NOT be WD-40, but rather WD-41 or some other iteration of formulation.
To put it back on OP's topic. Yeah, contact cleaner works wonders on contacts. Who would have thunk it?
Well, yeah. If you're known for having a miracle formula that when sprayed into something fixes everything for 99% of users, of course you're going to sell everything you can under that name. And what do you know, if you need a contact cleaner OP's solution fixes everything for most users no hassle much the same.
Obviously if you need something more specific, the person buying it will know better than to blindly buy something with WD-40 on it and will do their research. But if a consumer needs something fixed now and doesn't know jack shit, WD-40 labelled offerings are probably all they need and they'll be happy. Instead of meaning what it used to, it's simply a simple label of "here, this will fix your shit, moron".
>To further this point. WD-40 is no longer allowed (in Canada) to have it's classic formulation. So at best, any cans of WD-40 bought in Canada from hereon forward will NOT be WD-40, but rather WD-41 or some other iteration of formulation.
No one cares. Formulas and recipes change all of the time. Brand names stay the same because that's what people remember. Language and labels are all what people at large make of them. Not what's technically "correct".
>wipe contacts with a cloth
>doesn't work
>scrub contacts with iso soaked cotton swab
>doesn't work
>polish contacts with contact-cleaner abrasive
>doesn't work
>blow on cart
>works instantly
science can't explain this
>science can't explain why my breath can peel paint
The guy in the lab coat on TV selling industrial grade halitosis toothpaste literally says that 9 out of 10 dentists can