ebay reseller here. thank you for doing the god's work, buddy! you heard him kids, emulation is just not the same. you must buy a console at 2x what it cost at launch from me. not sure if it's working though, I got it from goodwill for $5. but remember, that's the only real way to play the game. stop being poor and buy!
try cleaning the contact points on the pc engine's card slot, a credit card wrapped in paper towels wet with isopropyl alcohol slid in and out should do
>i dont think its that, this unit was never used prior brand new in box,
These things are pushing 40 years old. Even if it was new still in box will cause issues. Metal will oxidize and capacitors can leak. The plastic will turn yellow and discolorize. Cleaning the contacts with alcohol is a good idea.
just done this still not working, wondering if it could be the chink ed though as none of its menu or loading screens are garbled
Is this a white original PC Engine / CoreGrafx?
Have you checked all the connections to the hucard slot? The ribbon cable from the slot to the main pcb gets really fragile over time.
If all those connections are good, then it's probably RAM.
yeah an original white pc engine, the ribbons and solder joints seem to be okay
(You) should only use a different part if all the following are true >The part has been tested and confirmed bad >you can't get the original or there's a substantial benefit to using a different part >you know wtf you're doing
Obviously all these criteria have not been met, so you should...
Crack it open and destroy it. These systems sold like hotcakes and could regularly be found for ¥500 up until a few years ago. As a reseller with a large inventory of them I'm counting on you zoomers to create artificial scarcity through the artificial difficulty of simple repairs to old toys. Don't let me down.
>solder joints seem to be okay
Did you actually test continuity with a multimeter?
It's not the joints that fail, it's on the top side of the board. The ribbon will rip off and it would be hard to see if it's just one connection that's gone bad.
Is this a white original PC Engine / CoreGrafx?
Have you checked all the connections to the hucard slot? The ribbon cable from the slot to the main pcb gets really fragile over time.
If all those connections are good, then it's probably RAM.
yeah well it did say it was untested, its spotless and even has the plastic peel on the controller still so i dont think they knew it was broken, japanese sellers are very honest with this stuff unlike ebay where people will call something untested and theres missing components on the board or botched repairs kek. if i can replace the ram and it works im happy
shut up homosexual, also its true i buy a lot of used consoles, untested to a westerner is a fucked with it and destroyed it, to a jap it a actually means untested
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
This is true. I have also bought "junk" items from japan that just needed a proper cleaning and were as good as new and in working condition.
I don't know if japanese people are neccesarily more honest, but there's a generally higher level of used items, compared to the mold infested, booger encrusted shit that people put on ebay here in the west.
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
>I don't know if japanese people are neccesarily more honest, but there's a generally higher level of used items, compared to the mold infested, booger encrusted shit that people put on ebay here in the west.
They take good care of their stuff and from a purely physiological POV East Asians don't sweat as much as white people so there's less sweat and gunk caked on controllers.
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
Japan is humid as fuck though. Meanwhile some of the most rancid gunk infested used videogames I've seen were from Berlin, which is not very humid.
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
>I don't know if japanese people are neccesarily more honest
They are definitely more honest and do seem to take care of their stuff better
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
If you ask me they are "baseline civilized". Like their honesty level is something I'd like to have globally as a universally agreed minimum standard, instead of everyone being a greedy nagger trying to fleece each other, rip each other off , sell broken junk and so on.
You're talking nonsense. The inevitable state of caps is drying out. Leaking is not inevitable. Unless you're talking about electrically leaky, but I got the sense you meant electrolytic fluid physically leaking out of the casing.
In any case, bad electrolytic caps in the analog circuitry would not cause this clearly digital problem OP is having.
I've been working on them since 88 and have seen hundreds. "Leaky caps" are exceptionally rare with these, even in related devices that are actually known to have cap problem like the super cd. Youtube lied to you kiddo.
>Crack it open and destroy it
im good at soldering and hot air rework unlucky for you niggy
Indeed. I can see from your words that you have spent many minutes studying the way of the youtube. Not wasting your time on such trivial matters, such as basic diagnostics, electronics, reading a data sheet, etc, you practice with your youtube every day. Surely my evil plan will be thwarted because you watched a child actor paid to do a video for a hot air station.
I mean, best of luck, but lol. Post gore when done.
You're talking nonsense. The inevitable state of caps is drying out. Leaking is not inevitable. Unless you're talking about electrically leaky, but I got the sense you meant electrolytic fluid physically leaking out of the casing.
In any case, bad electrolytic caps in the analog circuitry would not cause this clearly digital problem OP is having.
I said NTA, I was specifically replying to that post, you wanna shitpost, take it up with him
>Well I guess it's pointless to recap then
Not at all. It's the bread and butter of low skill "modders". Imagine having no skills or training but being able to charge $50-$100 for 30 minutes work you can do whenever you want. I'd imagine such a person might run around screaming that the sky is falling and the only way to save yourself is to recap everything
Also don't confuse "recap" with replacing a bad capacitor. One is good and necessary. The other is a tidepod tier fad.
have some ps1 gore i accidently broke a leg on one of the processors
Based gore producer. It's not worth the time and effort to do things cleanly on a $5 console. Just dig in and rip a hole in the package using whatever you have laying around on the workbench.
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
>. One is good and necessary. The other is a tidepod tier fad.
Idk i think if one fails you might aswell just replace them all while you have the system open only takes an hour or less for smaller systems, i dont just go recapping for no reason though, ps1 slim suffers from no video due to bad caps, ive had 2 sega saturns that wouldn't turn on at all and recapping fixed it kek
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
Preventive maintenance can be a good thing, but there are important things to consider.
1. Is it preventative. Is the cap you're gagging to replace actually ever going to go bad.
2. Do you risk doing more damage than good. For most people the answer is yes as soon as they pick up a screwdriver. It only gets worse once they get inside. If they don't rip up a pad or trace while desoldering they do it when tucking the radial capacitor they soldered to smt pads into some cranny. Popular "cap kit" mills actually sell kits like this because it's supposedly too difficult for the average homosexual to solder certain caps. I can't think of a better reason said homosexuals shouldn't be picking up a screwdriver.
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
Which do you think has ruined more consoles? Bad caps or bad recappers?
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
Hands down bad recappers. There are relatively few systems a bad cap will "ruin" it. It might not work correctly, or at all, but it's not ruined. Bad caps rarely rip up traces and burn holes in things. That's a lot more common with recaps, and exacerbated by the number of unnecessary caps replaced. This will only get much worse with time, because a shit job can take time to fail. A large radial cap may take a bit of shaking to rip SMT pads off a board. Same for balls of solder that break off and short something. The list goes on. All you have to do is look at picture of soldering people do here and on their home board of reddit so see this shit is rampant.
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
The arrogance of electronic repairmen always makes me laugh
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
this is why modern solutions exist like liquid solder paste that only needs a heat gun.
is kinda dumb sticking to primitive solutions when most of those repairs can be done quite easy and more precise with modern tools (available on japan and several places more)
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
>liquid solder paste
Great for many things but it's far too expensive for poorfags. When you've spent your last $100 on a broken console on ebay all you can afford is a small coil of the lowest quality garbage. Also, "a heat gun" is the "primitive solution". And advanced being can solder a TQFP304 in under 60 seconds with a heroin spoon. Also, you completely forgot the whole part where you have to desolder the caps before soldering new ones. Surely a trivial step that you just forgot about because you've done it so many times.
rate it
Honestly 9/what I expected. It's hard to tell from the picture whether some stuff is sloppy solder or reflections, but there's plenty of visible slop. Looks like you also removed most of the base plates, which are there specially to prevent big caps from flopping around and tearing up pads. It's not a disaster. It might work. But personally I wouldn't power it up without thoroughly checking it. Especially the nasty parts, like around where you melted that chip. Fingers crossed.
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
rate it
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
Which do you think has ruined more consoles? Bad caps or bad recappers?
Just emulate the caps. No biggie.
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
Just 3D print them brah.
The arrogance of electronic repairmen always makes me laugh
The tears of children who break their toys are delicious
Might as well be a flashcart problem, I've bought the abolute cheapest one for my MD and there were some sprite glitches in Sonic 2. That or the cartridge slot probably.
yeah it has a bunch of reviews though and lowest is a 3 star from one person who sounded like a retard so i dont think its that unless i just got super unlucky
i would rather you obtain some original carts and try them out first to verify the ED isn't the problem
yeah i just ordered one ill wait a bit before doing anything else
Welcome to the hobby, OP. As with the collection of anything electronic from the last 30 years ago, there's an expiry date to when you should have picked up your hardware and that date is really setting in now.
there's one gear in particular that breaks on all the disc drives, I had to replace it in my turbografx-cd. not hard to replace but I highly recommend putting a small piece of tape on the c-clip that holds the gear onto its shaft when you're trying to get it on/off, that clip is a tiny lil shit that will go flying.
I can't say anything about flash cards, because I have never used one. But garbage graphics like this are caused when some parts of the rom from the card/cartridge cant be read and the cause in 99% is dirty contacts.
quite likely. i mean this PCE is apparently NOS that was never even used before.
just noticed OP's ebay link earlier was from ebay UK and I haven't seen mention of a step-down transformer in this thread, very important to have when plugging NTSC-J devices into PAL power grids
>just noticed OP's ebay link earlier was from ebay UK and I haven't seen mention of a step-down transformer in this thread, very important to have when plugging NTSC-J devices into PAL power grids
You can actually use the PAL Mega Drive 1 AC Adapter for the pc engine, no problem.
All 8 and 16 bit consoles had external PSU as far as I know, it's just a matter of getting a AC Adapter that sends the correct voltage (which in the case of the pc engine happens to be the Mega Drive 1 AC Adapter)
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
I don’t think most people understand the differences of AC and DC is
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
Here's a useful link
https://forums.modretro.com/index.php?threads/ntsc-console-and-european-ac-adapter-lists.10941/
>just noticed OP's ebay link earlier was from ebay UK and I haven't seen mention of a step-down transformer in this thread, very important to have when plugging NTSC-J devices into PAL power grids
You can actually use the PAL Mega Drive 1 AC Adapter for the pc engine, no problem.
All 8 and 16 bit consoles had external PSU as far as I know, it's just a matter of getting a AC Adapter that sends the correct voltage (which in the case of the pc engine happens to be the Mega Drive 1 AC Adapter)
i bought a different power plug
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
Did you just plug the japanese adapter into the wall socket with a adapter plug or did you buy a specific "for use with jp pc engine in europe" cable like this one https://en.retrogamesupply.com/products/power-supply-for-nec-pc-engine-coregrafx-1-2
Because just using the japanese power supply with a adapter plug might kill your system.
No problem. Just emulate like a normal human.
It’s exactly the same and it saves time and money. You’ll play most if this garbage for 30 mins and then never again.
Also this is a contact issue or an everdrive issue,
You usually get this kinda shit from bad/dirty contacts.
Also who are the people seething about using real hardware instead of emulating here?
Like what's the demographics for people so irrationally upset over used hardware?
Zoomers? Third worlders? Who could be so upset over someone spending 50 bux to buy an old digital toy instead of emulating it on their $2000 computer? lmao
Yeah, /vr/ got some very persistent schizo who gets butthurt the moment someone plays on real hardware instead of emulating. Probably the same guy who pretends every CRT is a high-end mint studio monitor for thousands of dollars instead of something your neighbors gave you for free when they were cleaning out the basement.
really weird guy with massive emotional issues.
but he says it works with his Flash cart until he tries to start a game. that may suggest the Flash cart is at fault but he has to get some real carts to confirm.
I can't say anything about flash cards, because I have never used one. But garbage graphics like this are caused when some parts of the rom from the card/cartridge cant be read and the cause in 99% is dirty contacts.
is this ever the company's fault? are they the ones who go like "yeah let's cheap out so we can profit", or is the the equipment manufacturer that simply cheaps out for their own sake?
>is this ever the company's fault? are they the ones who go like "yeah let's cheap out so we can profit"
Nigga imagine designing a system you're gonna mass produce and not even testing thermals. Of course they knew the chips ran hot as fuck, they just didn't care. Even if you don't make the chips and just buy them to put them in your system you still knowingly sell a system that has a problem. Imagine doing the same thing with a car and putting shit made another company that you either didn't test or knew was dangerous but just didn't care
The people who made the C64 assumed by 2023 we're gonna be in star trek holodecks and colonizing space. I doubt any of them assumed the C64 would at some point become a beloved collectors item.
Anon, C64s were notorious for cracked solder joints, over heating ICs, and bad PSUs.
I mean, I love the c64, but come the fuck on Commodore cut every corner they could with manufacturing and these things would die regularly even when they were relevant.
they were using really outdated 70s chip technology that had huge honking 5 um dies that got like a pizza oven when running and oldskool photolithography equipment that used contact stamping of dies instead of the more modern laser cutting method. this caused a lot of issues with low yields and wafer contamination.
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
When MOS tried introducing 3.5 um they beefed it and had tons of self-destructing PLAs and TED chips. That was because the doping process was faulty and literally destroyed the aluminum traces on the dies (they applied too much dopant and the excess leaked onto the traces and melted them).
and sometimes with hardware you have to do some mods/prepping to keep it working because the manufacturer was retarded or wanted to save 10 cents
the VIC-II is a relative beast of a chip and is running internally at 8Mhz. it's actually too much for 5 um process and they should have split it into two ICs like with the Atari 8-bit graphics system to ease the workload on a single chip.
>Imagine doing the same thing with a car
The worst offenders of using known bad parts are actually car manufacturers kek. Look up a recall list for any five-year-old car or older.
the kernal ROM in VIC-20 does get a lot warmer than the BASIC or character ROMs and i don't know why that is. apparently it's a common failure point for this reason and should be sinked.
My understanding is that MOS didn't quite standard mask ROMs they were a slightly customized design that had some kind of pre-charger circuit to speed up access time.
duo-r does look like a toilet, but it's super reliable to the point it's almost worth it.
too bad the original duo is one of the least reliable consoles because it's the best looking one.
but emulating on the wii is so bad right
emulation is gay
yeah and I can actually play the fucking game instead of whatever the fuck that is
>emulating
you're not really playing the game
Neither is OP
The only one who's not playing any games here is you
ebay reseller here. thank you for doing the god's work, buddy! you heard him kids, emulation is just not the same. you must buy a console at 2x what it cost at launch from me. not sure if it's working though, I got it from goodwill for $5. but remember, that's the only real way to play the game. stop being poor and buy!
>you must buy a console at 2x what it cost at launch from me.
Where is this ever the case?
OP BTFO
imagine believing this retarded shit
imagine believing this retarded shit
try cleaning the contact points on the pc engine's card slot, a credit card wrapped in paper towels wet with isopropyl alcohol slid in and out should do
i dont think its that, this unit was never used prior brand new in box, ill give it a go. the everdrive menu is also not garbled
>i dont think its that, this unit was never used prior brand new in box,
These things are pushing 40 years old. Even if it was new still in box will cause issues. Metal will oxidize and capacitors can leak. The plastic will turn yellow and discolorize. Cleaning the contacts with alcohol is a good idea.
Yeah i did do it when i opened it
just done this still not working, wondering if it could be the chink ed though as none of its menu or loading screens are garbled
yeah an original white pc engine, the ribbons and solder joints seem to be okay
Wait, it works except when you use a Flash cart? Do any original HuCards work and boot? If so that may be your explanation.
stupidly i didn't order any original carts maybe i should get one kek, the flash cart menu is fine though
>256kx8 SRAM
this brings up a bunch of different sizes/pin counts is there something else to identify it?
it's 28 pins, no?
yeah is that sop28?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152900827823?epid=28027234199 is this likely to work, it does say cmos sram idk if that means it need a battery kek
Maybe try a regular cart.
(You) should only use a different part if all the following are true
>The part has been tested and confirmed bad
>you can't get the original or there's a substantial benefit to using a different part
>you know wtf you're doing
Obviously all these criteria have not been met, so you should...
Crack it open and destroy it. These systems sold like hotcakes and could regularly be found for ¥500 up until a few years ago. As a reseller with a large inventory of them I'm counting on you zoomers to create artificial scarcity through the artificial difficulty of simple repairs to old toys. Don't let me down.
>Crack it open and destroy it
im good at soldering and hot air rework unlucky for you niggy
>solder joints seem to be okay
Did you actually test continuity with a multimeter?
It's not the joints that fail, it's on the top side of the board. The ribbon will rip off and it would be hard to see if it's just one connection that's gone bad.
Is this a white original PC Engine / CoreGrafx?
Have you checked all the connections to the hucard slot? The ribbon cable from the slot to the main pcb gets really fragile over time.
If all those connections are good, then it's probably RAM.
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/-active-components-HSRM20256LM12_1132729731.html
Found the ram on alibaba hopefully i can get them ordered without needing to buy 5000 of them kek
The RAM is a stock 256kx8 SRAM chip. You can get those anywhere and don't need the specific original PN chips.
rekt by Japan reseller
yeah well it did say it was untested, its spotless and even has the plastic peel on the controller still so i dont think they knew it was broken, japanese sellers are very honest with this stuff unlike ebay where people will call something untested and theres missing components on the board or botched repairs kek. if i can replace the ram and it works im happy
I've only bought from Japan ON eBay. Everyone is honest on eBay you racist.
i mean westerners not japs on ebay
Westereners are fine this is my point. "Only Japanese are good". But you call them Japs? You're double racist.
shut up homosexual, also its true i buy a lot of used consoles, untested to a westerner is a fucked with it and destroyed it, to a jap it a actually means untested
This is true. I have also bought "junk" items from japan that just needed a proper cleaning and were as good as new and in working condition.
I don't know if japanese people are neccesarily more honest, but there's a generally higher level of used items, compared to the mold infested, booger encrusted shit that people put on ebay here in the west.
>I don't know if japanese people are neccesarily more honest, but there's a generally higher level of used items, compared to the mold infested, booger encrusted shit that people put on ebay here in the west.
They take good care of their stuff and from a purely physiological POV East Asians don't sweat as much as white people so there's less sweat and gunk caked on controllers.
Japan is humid as fuck though. Meanwhile some of the most rancid gunk infested used videogames I've seen were from Berlin, which is not very humid.
>I don't know if japanese people are neccesarily more honest
They are definitely more honest and do seem to take care of their stuff better
If you ask me they are "baseline civilized". Like their honesty level is something I'd like to have globally as a universally agreed minimum standard, instead of everyone being a greedy nagger trying to fleece each other, rip each other off , sell broken junk and so on.
>But you call them Japs? You're double racist.
How is that racist it's just short
They rarely accept returns. And only a retard would return anything to Japan, the shipping is like $100. You're basically burnt.
>yeah well it did say it was untested
Thats what they say when they know it's broken, but still want to sell it without looking like a scammer.
If it was NOS and never used probably leaky caps that damaged traces. PCEs were known to use some pretty shitty capacitors.
>leaky caps
isnt that a problem with the pce duos? OP has a regular white pce
NTA but the PC Engine is nearly 40 years old
Leaky caps are a very real risk with all of them now
You're talking nonsense. The inevitable state of caps is drying out. Leaking is not inevitable. Unless you're talking about electrically leaky, but I got the sense you meant electrolytic fluid physically leaking out of the casing.
In any case, bad electrolytic caps in the analog circuitry would not cause this clearly digital problem OP is having.
I've been working on them since 88 and have seen hundreds. "Leaky caps" are exceptionally rare with these, even in related devices that are actually known to have cap problem like the super cd. Youtube lied to you kiddo.
Indeed. I can see from your words that you have spent many minutes studying the way of the youtube. Not wasting your time on such trivial matters, such as basic diagnostics, electronics, reading a data sheet, etc, you practice with your youtube every day. Surely my evil plan will be thwarted because you watched a child actor paid to do a video for a hot air station.
I mean, best of luck, but lol. Post gore when done.
Well I guess it's pointless to recap then
I said NTA, I was specifically replying to that post, you wanna shitpost, take it up with him
>Well I guess it's pointless to recap then
Not at all. It's the bread and butter of low skill "modders". Imagine having no skills or training but being able to charge $50-$100 for 30 minutes work you can do whenever you want. I'd imagine such a person might run around screaming that the sky is falling and the only way to save yourself is to recap everything
Also don't confuse "recap" with replacing a bad capacitor. One is good and necessary. The other is a tidepod tier fad.
Based gore producer. It's not worth the time and effort to do things cleanly on a $5 console. Just dig in and rip a hole in the package using whatever you have laying around on the workbench.
>. One is good and necessary. The other is a tidepod tier fad.
Idk i think if one fails you might aswell just replace them all while you have the system open only takes an hour or less for smaller systems, i dont just go recapping for no reason though, ps1 slim suffers from no video due to bad caps, ive had 2 sega saturns that wouldn't turn on at all and recapping fixed it kek
Preventive maintenance can be a good thing, but there are important things to consider.
1. Is it preventative. Is the cap you're gagging to replace actually ever going to go bad.
2. Do you risk doing more damage than good. For most people the answer is yes as soon as they pick up a screwdriver. It only gets worse once they get inside. If they don't rip up a pad or trace while desoldering they do it when tucking the radial capacitor they soldered to smt pads into some cranny. Popular "cap kit" mills actually sell kits like this because it's supposedly too difficult for the average homosexual to solder certain caps. I can't think of a better reason said homosexuals shouldn't be picking up a screwdriver.
Which do you think has ruined more consoles? Bad caps or bad recappers?
Hands down bad recappers. There are relatively few systems a bad cap will "ruin" it. It might not work correctly, or at all, but it's not ruined. Bad caps rarely rip up traces and burn holes in things. That's a lot more common with recaps, and exacerbated by the number of unnecessary caps replaced. This will only get much worse with time, because a shit job can take time to fail. A large radial cap may take a bit of shaking to rip SMT pads off a board. Same for balls of solder that break off and short something. The list goes on. All you have to do is look at picture of soldering people do here and on their home board of reddit so see this shit is rampant.
The arrogance of electronic repairmen always makes me laugh
this is why modern solutions exist like liquid solder paste that only needs a heat gun.
is kinda dumb sticking to primitive solutions when most of those repairs can be done quite easy and more precise with modern tools (available on japan and several places more)
>liquid solder paste
Great for many things but it's far too expensive for poorfags. When you've spent your last $100 on a broken console on ebay all you can afford is a small coil of the lowest quality garbage. Also, "a heat gun" is the "primitive solution". And advanced being can solder a TQFP304 in under 60 seconds with a heroin spoon. Also, you completely forgot the whole part where you have to desolder the caps before soldering new ones. Surely a trivial step that you just forgot about because you've done it so many times.
Honestly 9/what I expected. It's hard to tell from the picture whether some stuff is sloppy solder or reflections, but there's plenty of visible slop. Looks like you also removed most of the base plates, which are there specially to prevent big caps from flopping around and tearing up pads. It's not a disaster. It might work. But personally I wouldn't power it up without thoroughly checking it. Especially the nasty parts, like around where you melted that chip. Fingers crossed.
rate it
Just emulate the caps. No biggie.
Just 3D print them brah.
The tears of children who break their toys are delicious
You said
>Leaky caps are a very real risk with all of them now
about white pc engines
this is bullshit
fuck off back to youtube
have some ps1 gore i accidently broke a leg on one of the processors
Shoulda emulated on the wii
i would rather you obtain some original carts and try them out first to verify the ED isn't the problem
Might as well be a flashcart problem, I've bought the abolute cheapest one for my MD and there were some sprite glitches in Sonic 2. That or the cartridge slot probably.
yeah it has a bunch of reviews though and lowest is a 3 star from one person who sounded like a retard so i dont think its that unless i just got super unlucky
yeah i just ordered one ill wait a bit before doing anything else
Did you fix it
no
Welcome to the hobby, OP. As with the collection of anything electronic from the last 30 years ago, there's an expiry date to when you should have picked up your hardware and that date is really setting in now.
>Welcome to the hobby
ive fixed and modded plenty of junk consoles kek i just dont know what wrong with this, never had one before
Exactly, the hobby of PC Engine.
oh kek, hope fully the disc drive i get doesn't give me too many issues i ordered some gears incase
there's one gear in particular that breaks on all the disc drives, I had to replace it in my turbografx-cd. not hard to replace but I highly recommend putting a small piece of tape on the c-clip that holds the gear onto its shaft when you're trying to get it on/off, that clip is a tiny lil shit that will go flying.
just noticed OP's ebay link earlier was from ebay UK and I haven't seen mention of a step-down transformer in this thread, very important to have when plugging NTSC-J devices into PAL power grids
>just noticed OP's ebay link earlier was from ebay UK and I haven't seen mention of a step-down transformer in this thread, very important to have when plugging NTSC-J devices into PAL power grids
You can actually use the PAL Mega Drive 1 AC Adapter for the pc engine, no problem.
All 8 and 16 bit consoles had external PSU as far as I know, it's just a matter of getting a AC Adapter that sends the correct voltage (which in the case of the pc engine happens to be the Mega Drive 1 AC Adapter)
I don’t think most people understand the differences of AC and DC is
Here's a useful link
https://forums.modretro.com/index.php?threads/ntsc-console-and-european-ac-adapter-lists.10941/
i bought a different power plug
Did you just plug the japanese adapter into the wall socket with a adapter plug or did you buy a specific "for use with jp pc engine in europe" cable like this one https://en.retrogamesupply.com/products/power-supply-for-nec-pc-engine-coregrafx-1-2
Because just using the japanese power supply with a adapter plug might kill your system.
@10412693
thanks, Reddit
No problem. Just emulate like a normal human.
It’s exactly the same and it saves time and money. You’ll play most if this garbage for 30 mins and then never again.
Also this is a contact issue or an everdrive issue,
Sounds like you don't like video games at all
I remember a guy on AtariAge who said his 2600 worked with normal carts but glitched when he used it with a Flash cart, so your mileage may vary.
boomers are never right about that stuff
You usually get this kinda shit from bad/dirty contacts.
Also who are the people seething about using real hardware instead of emulating here?
Like what's the demographics for people so irrationally upset over used hardware?
Zoomers? Third worlders? Who could be so upset over someone spending 50 bux to buy an old digital toy instead of emulating it on their $2000 computer? lmao
someone was seething hard when i posted it in this
thread kek
Yeah, /vr/ got some very persistent schizo who gets butthurt the moment someone plays on real hardware instead of emulating. Probably the same guy who pretends every CRT is a high-end mint studio monitor for thousands of dollars instead of something your neighbors gave you for free when they were cleaning out the basement.
really weird guy with massive emotional issues.
but he says it works with his Flash cart until he tries to start a game. that may suggest the Flash cart is at fault but he has to get some real carts to confirm.
I can't say anything about flash cards, because I have never used one. But garbage graphics like this are caused when some parts of the rom from the card/cartridge cant be read and the cause in 99% is dirty contacts.
quite likely. i mean this PCE is apparently NOS that was never even used before.
Well that doesnt mean that much, I've had some ancient atari that sat on a shelf for a few decades blow all its capacitors when I turned it on.
Electrolytic caps don't like sitting unused for a very long time, they tend to dry out. Using them keeps them fresh.
and sometimes with hardware you have to do some mods/prepping to keep it working because the manufacturer was retarded or wanted to save 10 cents
is this ever the company's fault? are they the ones who go like "yeah let's cheap out so we can profit", or is the the equipment manufacturer that simply cheaps out for their own sake?
>is this ever the company's fault? are they the ones who go like "yeah let's cheap out so we can profit"
Nigga imagine designing a system you're gonna mass produce and not even testing thermals. Of course they knew the chips ran hot as fuck, they just didn't care. Even if you don't make the chips and just buy them to put them in your system you still knowingly sell a system that has a problem. Imagine doing the same thing with a car and putting shit made another company that you either didn't test or knew was dangerous but just didn't care
The people who made the C64 assumed by 2023 we're gonna be in star trek holodecks and colonizing space. I doubt any of them assumed the C64 would at some point become a beloved collectors item.
Anon, C64s were notorious for cracked solder joints, over heating ICs, and bad PSUs.
I mean, I love the c64, but come the fuck on Commodore cut every corner they could with manufacturing and these things would die regularly even when they were relevant.
Yeah, it was a piece of shit made to last a few years max, I think nobody back then expected them to be still around in 2023 outside of a museum.
they got better with time, the C128, C64C, and Amigas were far better and more dependable machines than anything from pre-1985
they were using really outdated 70s chip technology that had huge honking 5 um dies that got like a pizza oven when running and oldskool photolithography equipment that used contact stamping of dies instead of the more modern laser cutting method. this caused a lot of issues with low yields and wafer contamination.
When MOS tried introducing 3.5 um they beefed it and had tons of self-destructing PLAs and TED chips. That was because the doping process was faulty and literally destroyed the aluminum traces on the dies (they applied too much dopant and the excess leaked onto the traces and melted them).
they got better after the first 2-1/2 years but the early ones were definitely troublesome
the VIC-II is a relative beast of a chip and is running internally at 8Mhz. it's actually too much for 5 um process and they should have split it into two ICs like with the Atari 8-bit graphics system to ease the workload on a single chip.
well hey the guys who designed the 57 Chevy never thought it would be a classic car either
>Imagine doing the same thing with a car
The worst offenders of using known bad parts are actually car manufacturers kek. Look up a recall list for any five-year-old car or older.
I dont know if it’s related to this issue but the PC engine is at a point where some caps are dying, have you checked inside the unit?
the caps looked fine no bulging or anything
rekt PPU?
They should have put a proper heat spreader on the VIC-II ala the TMS VDP instead of the retarded attempt at using the RF box as a heat sink.
Bit paranoid tbqh. The VIC and kernal ROM are the only things where heat buildup is that significant.
For some people it's worth it just for the peace of mind
the kernal ROM in VIC-20 does get a lot warmer than the BASIC or character ROMs and i don't know why that is. apparently it's a common failure point for this reason and should be sinked.
My understanding is that MOS didn't quite standard mask ROMs they were a slightly customized design that had some kind of pre-charger circuit to speed up access time.
There’s a Japanese ghost girl living in there anon, ask her nicely to come out and maybe she’ll be your gaming buddy
This is probably a real light novel right?
i found a cheap good condition pc engine with a cdrom 2 should i get it or a duo-r ?
duo r is ugly and the cd rom 2 is the sexiest thing ive ever seen
duo-r does look like a toilet, but it's super reliable to the point it's almost worth it.
too bad the original duo is one of the least reliable consoles because it's the best looking one.
>I hate Marchen Maze!