It's not necessarily going to come back any time soon. The results are basically up in the air for this because the state of the plastic is going to different between each item
Those kits work by chemically burning off the top layer of plexiglass then applying a sealant over the remaining layer below, since they're meant to be used on tougher material than the plastic used for consoles I wouldn't risk it
Only the bottom half of my snezz turned golden yellow so it looks like a cool limited edition console. My CT and EB carts have a slight yellow tint though and it kinda bothers me, but I only paid twenty bucks for each of them back in the late '90s so whatever.
>remove original case >place in vacuum sealed storage for "preservation" >3d print a pristine copy with no discoloration or flaws indistinguishable from the real thing aside from the lack of age and wear
Never tried it myself, was going to but then I heard that it's very temporary and the yellowing comes back fast, and that doing it severely degrades the plastic.
>>3d print a pristine copy with no discoloration or flaws indistinguishable from the real thing aside from the lack of age and wear
You sure as frick aren't going to be able to 3D print jack shit that looks anything close to a mass produced part made by professional injection molding.
Useless scam. All you need to do instead is leave your shit in the sun for a few days.
The original retrobright was a recipe for people to make themselves at home. How on Earth is it a scam?
immorally tricking impressionable neurodivergent loners into buying homes (in order to manipulate housing prices for personal benefit)
Faded off-white is kino, especially when the panels don't fade evenly.
>All you need to do instead is leave your shit in the sun for a few days.
Now THAT is how you get embrittlement.
It works but it causes embrittlement.
>It works but it causes embrittlement.
Proofs?
There is no proof because it's impossible for that to be the case
It will come back so it isn't truly effective
>It will come back
and faster, too
It's not necessarily going to come back any time soon. The results are basically up in the air for this because the state of the plastic is going to different between each item
I did this to my original Famicom several years ago, and it did indeed turn yellow again pretty rapidly, probably within a couple years.
we’re you playing it outside?
I don't look at the device, I look at its output.
its like gray hair.. Wear your yellow snes with honor!!
Soulless/Soul
some plexiglass car headlights also yellow. on the net we find kits to renovate the headlights, do you think it can work on consoles?
Those kits work by chemically burning off the top layer of plexiglass then applying a sealant over the remaining layer below, since they're meant to be used on tougher material than the plastic used for consoles I wouldn't risk it
Try ghetrobrite. Just pour bleach on it and throw it on the roof
looks good for a couple years but then ends up more fricked up than it was originally, word on the street is.
Only the bottom half of my snezz turned golden yellow so it looks like a cool limited edition console. My CT and EB carts have a slight yellow tint though and it kinda bothers me, but I only paid twenty bucks for each of them back in the late '90s so whatever.
That happened to mine too and I think it looks like crap. On the other hand, it still works fine so I still like it fine. Basically
It absolute destroys the fricking thing if done wrong, learn it the hard way
Dumb as hell. Old things look old, just deal with it.
If old yellowing plastic bothers you, it's probably better to just get a modern reproduction shell.
>remove original case
>place in vacuum sealed storage for "preservation"
>3d print a pristine copy with no discoloration or flaws indistinguishable from the real thing aside from the lack of age and wear
Never tried it myself, was going to but then I heard that it's very temporary and the yellowing comes back fast, and that doing it severely degrades the plastic.
>>3d print a pristine copy with no discoloration or flaws indistinguishable from the real thing aside from the lack of age and wear
You sure as frick aren't going to be able to 3D print jack shit that looks anything close to a mass produced part made by professional injection molding.
My printer prints using 100% USA steel which I then paint to look like cheap, injection molded plastic.
Are there any known SNES serial number ranges which don't yellow? I know my late/1-chip SFC has zero yellowing.