Electrical *ngineer here... do you actually know what's inside these? Did you know that most of the time a 650W and 1000W PSU are simply the same unit being pushed harder up front?
The "you should get the most powerful supply you can for overhead" argument is almost entirely bullshit. What you should do is find out what you need (say 700W) and then look within the family of PSUs you want. Find one that is only slightly above this rating that has more models above it than below.
Use a calculator. Look for a family of PSUs within that range. Choose the lowest part of the range you can. Congratulations, you now have the most reliable PSU in the range, and it's more than capable of running your system under high load. It will run cooler and be much more reliable than the more expensive models. Remember, these are constant output supplies with mostly the same parts, save for coil and capacitor values. Do you want the same hardware constantly pushing 750W or 1000 when you only need 650W?
>numbers are arbitrary for conversation sake
>your requirements will vary but the same rules apply
 CRIME Shirt $21.68 |
 Shopping Cart Returner Shirt $21.68 |
CRIME Shirt $21.68 |
I'd just wipe my ass with the extra $20 I might be saving
>he thinks it's about money
Tell me the 5 main ways a power supply can fail, and which of those ways can kill your entire system.
I'd rather tell you 5 ways to please your man. That sounds right up your alley, OP.
Wait, why would you know the 5 ways on how to please his man?
because your mom has demonstrated 5 very good ways of making me cum
>i had my dick sucked one and now know how to suck dick
????
he's a chappelle fan
It's just a joke, autismo.
>homosexual gets btfo
>I was just pretendoing to be moronic
never change homosexual
I don't need to know that nerd shit bud
fan death
power connector put in wrong port,
using wrong power supply modular adapters
using 220 when you have 110
Trying to power one of these in any form
>What is a power spike?
It's what you're responsible for, sparky. Oh wait nevermind you're an "electrical engineer" meaning you're just a piezoelectric toymaker.
>ignores that i said to get a psu rated higher than you need
You conveniently ignore whatever you need to in order to make your insecure, moronic attacks. In the future, learn with grace rather than insecurity.
>a psu rated higher than you need
>Slightly
Devils in the details. "slight" is now "300 watts" because these part manufacturers lie about the max draw.
>In the future, learn with grace rather than insecurity.
Do you morons still to this day not know or care about how magnets work? Do you even care?
>no response
LMAO
Why bother? It's irrelevant to the discussion. Do you want to have the "all channels driven" receiver discussion while we're at it? It's pointless. Measure your shit.
What is that and why can't I use it? I've been using whatever cables came with my PSU and it's been working for 10 years.
Looks like molex to me
that's how to fry your PSU, not how your PSU fails, which would be from a short, overvoltage, etc.
>that's how to fry your PSU, not how your PSU fails
I would say frying a PSU makes it fail.
There's a difference between cause and consequences.
overvoltage will fry your system. the PSU's fuse blowing is generally harmless.
I have one of these actually, but only used it to plug into one thing...just because.
>dude lmao buy the cheapest shitbrand low wattage PSU you can find
Enjoy your power transient bluescreens and the piece of shit breaking within a year I guess.
That's not what I said, anon.
You people are mentally ill. This thread is an amazing insight into the mind of the average NPC.
Sorry anon, but I will buy an expensive Seasonic Focus GX instead of having to deal with shitty PSUs ever again.
>Dude, stop being sceptical or your a NPC
Go be poor somewhere else
>This thread is an amazing insight
it's like a dozen posts you dork
The immediate knee-jerk cope and lack of reading comprehension speaks volumes about the state of the consumer.
20 posts in a Ganker thread will never speak volumes about anything
I'm buying the ROG thor II 1200w platinum even though I don't need it just to flex on your broke ass.
>still thinks it's about money
Anon, I have 2 camera lenses behind me that are over $10K each, and live on oceanfront property. You can find me on Ganker if you want to have a flexing war.
No you don't
AF-S Nikkor 600mm f/4G ED VR
AF-S NIKKOR 400mm f/2.8G ED VR
Those aren't even $10k combined...
>i will just bullshit and hope people can't google the msrp and prices quoted in every review
I unboxed them on Ganker when they released. Don't even make me start on my Z lenses, anon.
Post power supply you pussy, mines got a motorized fleshlight which heats up while I'm posting here & also stimulates my platinum penis ring encrusted with diamonds that some now dead niglets harvested in the congo for a israeli diamond merchant named maurice.
I'm finna get me one of those.
>You can find me on Ganker if you want to have a flexing war.
It's always these little details that make me believe a post.
I admit I'm a dumbass and I had to read
to get the point. I never knew that they just overclock the PSUs or whatever you call it for higher watts. Thanks anon, I appreciate it
i just don't understand what you're saying - you're doing the usual engineer folly of using high-standard linguistics in the company of laymen
keep it simple if you want to spread your message to simple people
I've spoken in lay terms this entire time.
PSUs = mass produced
Same inside
750W same as 1000W
1000W just pushed harder
Outputs dirtier power
Fails sooner
Understand? If you don't believe me, look inside. Mass production is what dictates this practice. They build a board that will perform within a range, and cut that range into market segments. Each segment gets a model. The failure point is almost always a common component because (surprise surprise) engineering things to operate within a range rather than a specific value is not reliable.
This is the big dirty secret. Your local computer store knows as well, but their profit margins are so razor thin they pretty much have to play along with the "overhead" meme.
i think i sorta get it based on your previous comments about "family" in-brand selection
so something in the range of 500-1000 is just overclocked chinese house-burndown bullshit and 1000-1600 is the same thing on a larger scale, but preferable if you need demands of something like 1200?
Yeah, consumer products are always done like this nowadays. The only real way to tell for sure is to look inside, but if you have a local store you can take them out of the box and peek inside easily enough. I have yet to see otherwise.
A board engineered to handle 600-1000W will be very robust at 600W. One designed for 1000-1600W will be very robust at 1000W. Assuming a decent manufacturer of course. You'll want Rubycon or Nichicon caps, stuff like that.
>A board engineered to handle 600-1000W will be very robust at 600W. One designed for 1000-1600W will be very robust at 1000W.
the shape of board itself says nothing, at most it adds more wires outputs / layers needed for more power.
The board is a very unlikely component to fail, because it simply acts like a wire.
just because the board looks exactly the same doesn't mean it is.
it's completely possible for the board to replace the chips because when you look at digikey, it's very common for a bunch of dc-dc chips to be in the exact same size, but rated for better power output.
Just because a 4070 GPU has the same board as a 4070 TI GPU, doesn't mean the 2 GPU's are equal to each other, same with circuit boards of all types.
you could argue the reverse for getting the most expensive PSU in a range, if it offers the
best caps, chips, protection, fan, noise filtering, etc, because it's possible for the cheaper PSU to cheap out on them, and those components are more likely to fail than anything else.
But spending more than $80 on a PSU isn't worth it unless you are buying a 4090 or something, MSI MPG has 10 years warranty, and chances are the PSU will fail due to user error, like spilling coffee over your PC.
You really don't understand manufacturing at all.
>at most it adds more wires outputs / layers
Kek. Those are absolutely crucial. On top of that, I also said to see how it is populated. On top of that, the design is absolutely a balancing act to support a range of wattages. It is never ideal, yet getting as close to ideal as possible is achieved by moving down. This is because the common components are selected for the upper range.
Tooling costs money. Every component that is different costs money, because you need different code both on the board and even while laying up components on the assembly line. It snowballs, so as many components as possible are selected to be common. As a result, the bottom end of a family of PSUs -provided they are in the range you need- will always be more reliable.
So they are kinda like CPU binning?
Yeah, but artificially to hit different points in the market. Different products built on a common foundation. It's the cheapest way to do it and isn't really unethical. It's just good to know where the boundaries are because you're always better off at the low-mid range of each revision.
Jesus bro how moronic are you?
100>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>500
500>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>1000
If you want 500 you buy the second one because the parts inside are better and have a higher tolerance. This is not hard. I'm ESL and I know shit about electronic.
a lot of Gankerirgins are kids and/or people who just play games and don't know much tech stuff. at least post this on Ganker if you want an argument
I posted here for a reason though, to reach the people most affected by the marketing wank.
What did you expect, this site's been taken over by low IQ redditors and discord zoomers for years now. Should've just posted a vaguely political Twitter screenshot if you wanted to activate anyone's almonds around here.
the political Twitter shit is awful but let's not pretend Ganker used to be a bunch of geniuses
>comes in here making wild claims
>dude trust me lol
>expects to be taken seriously
Lol
What a dumb ass
>I started my first semester of electrical engineering and now I'm a genius and you are all imbeciles
>my entire posts was about reliability and not saving money
>the first 2 replies are consoomer morons not realizing they have been fooled into putting their systems in jeopardy by throwing money at an issue they don't understand
This is exactly why I made this PSA. You're welcome. There's a reason why the PSU is still the highest failure point of a PC.
Sounds like electrical engineers are bad at their jobs if power supplies fail so often.
Well you're supposedly talking to one who doesn't even know the fundamental laws of electricity so yeah I would say so
get a real job, gay
porn always needs more actors anon
Can you ever say anything relevant you dick in the booty ass Black person
we're gonna kill you homie
Last thing i would ever do is listen to some random 4cuck autist
The most reliable industrial controllers in the world almost never need their power supplies replaced... why do you think that is? Are they just made better? No. Do they use ratings far above what the system requires? No.
It's almost as if consumers are morons who make poor decisions... why do you think the rating is so prominently displayed on these units, and always in stylized text like a logo? It's marketing. You're being duped. You're buying a less reliable, more dangerous component for your PC because you are conditioned.
so whats the best
I said it in the OP... find out what your system needs. Find a PSU family that has your model near the lower part of that range.
Internally, the models will be identical (to keep production costs low) yet capable of operating within a wide range. This is how they get their model numbers, by simply asking more or less of the same hardware. So if you choose the lower end of that range, it will be far more reliable and safer for your system. Especially nowadays with such high frequency CPUs and GPUs. You want clean, steady power.
This thread was never about saving money, kek.
Stinks like poorgay backpedaling.
>far more reliable and safer
Armchair theorizing doesn't cut it even if the principles are correct.. Post numbers and methodology or skedaddle and stop posting FUD.
>list the specs and internals of every psu model on the market
No. You're being unreasonably autistic and you know it. More than likely you're just coping for posting something moronic above.
I'm telling you how these things are manufactured so you can do that yourself. The next time you're looking at models, find out what's in them. Look at RMA reports and part numbers for repairs. Ask the fricking manufacturer. Go to your local computer retailer and literally look through the slots on the power supply, you can see everything without even opening it. Compare the 750W to the 1200W. If they are identical layouts, then you absolutely do not want to run the 1200W but the 750W is probably great. If the 750W and 1200W are different, then that's another story.
It's not as simple as swapping components on a board. To jump from 750W to 1200W, you will want a different board layout altogether with room for more caps rather than just bigger ones, shorter traces, and room for a bigger heatsink. These manufacturers build everything to maximize their profit, not the quality of the product. It's a balancing act so position yourself toward the safe end of the act. That's where the engineering will be the strongest and you will end up with the superior product.
If you need a 1200W power supply, then get one from a family that goes from 1000W to 1600W, not from 1200W down to 600W unless you know for sure (by looking) that they are not the same board design. If they are the same, you are getting scammed and putting your whole system at risk.
That's way too much effort to maybe theoretically potentially spare yourself $50 if you get unlucky.
>too much trouble
I'll put it this way: Among the big manufacturers (you know them) I've never seen a PSU family that wasn't identical. These things are mass produced. So if you can't be bothered checking, still stick with the formula in the OP: Find out what you need and go slightly above that. Going to the end of the range means you're just getting the same thing pushed harder, well toward the upper range of its capabilities, for no reason. You get more heat, less steady power (meaning you can't overclock as much among other things) and shortening the lifespan of your entire system, especially the GPU.
You should be striving for consistent, clean power above all else. Be good to your hardware... quality over quantity. Bigger numbers on the PSU case means nothing if you don't need it. You're just feeding your system dirtier power for no reason. There is no "overhead" with a more powerful PSU, kek. That's marketing BS and it's actually the polar opposite of reality.
https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/
is this a good start to look for information regarding new psus?
>If the 750W and 1200W are different, then that's another story.
Did you really start a thread to say "buy only what you need"? Great advice, what are your thoughts on light bulbs?
LEDs are bad for your eyes because they produce more blue light than infra red. The power savings over halogens are negligible.
I wad being an butthole, but I do genuinely dislike LED light bulbs and think they're over rated
>blue light than infra red
oh great, another pseudosience moron. Blue light does not impact eye health, there's been plenty of studies done that show this. The strain and fatigue arises from not blinking enough and focusing on a plane at a fixed distance when looking at screens.
and if you're that autistic about blue light, you can buy warmer colored LEDs
>The power savings over halogens are negligible
it's not negligible if you use lots of bulbs, but even then LED bulbs are cheaper and last longer.
>you can buy warmer colored LEDs
Fuddcore.
It's the "putting your whole system at risk" part and "far more reliable and safer" you need to justify. If you can't put any numbers on that there's no way to know if it's worth worrying about. If "safer" means .00001% chance of failure instead of .00002 that is correct but negligible. You may be right but it is irresponsible to tell people this is something they ought to be using time and brain cells to think about unless it's statistically significant.
Let me tell you something EE anon. I did mechanical and industrial and the knowledge you received from school is useful to you on a level. You can make connections that others wouldn't think much of. You'll waste your energy trying to get people to think like you/understand you because you spent 4 years learning mildly complex math that helped you understand the way things work on a very in depth level, but guess what anon, no one else did. Most are sour grapes about it and say it's all bullshit worthless math (because they don't do math past algebra.) or "I woulda dun it but it's too expensive." Or they're the "I know the physics but can't do the math." And trying to get them up to speed ain't worth the time or effort.
And honestly, they don't give a flying frick except for the bottom line. So you, as an engineer needs to understand that. An engineer that's trying to get everyone to be an engineer is a bad engineer. A good engineer is one that can dumb it down to "if do x people like, y happen, make big money." And then everyone claps. If they ask you more you can go into it. But otherwise, don't.
Just, smoke a doobie and take a deep breath. You're casting pearls before swine. Also you sound like a spaz, but you have to be a bit of one to have not gotten turned off by the 4 years of education with little practical application.
i love you
You ain't wrong. But I post on Ganker because I like the ensuing disasters. Every post I have ever made on Ganker and /n/ is like this, I just wanted to branch out.
Beautiful post, but by being here you're basically the 'bad engineer' you so talked about.
I feel bad too, because I'm just a homeless dude stealing WiFi from the McDonald's near the bus stop.
Black person I was too dumb to be able to dumb it down so I left my engineer job for a tradie job. Feels good. Make more money too.
Engineer is literally a pajeet tier degree these days.You ARE the swine, sirs.
>thinks everything is css and python
Literally not a single integrated circuit on this entire planet was designed by a poo.
Wait hold on, are you implying that f.e. Seasonic Core GX are the same internals all the way except how much they pull in in the AC, and how much they release to the output rails? Are you implying that the higher wattage level models are pushing outside spec or what? I'm not too familiar with electrical circuitry wear if there is even such phenomena so bear with me.
He's saying the internal components are built for the lower power levels and then are basically hacked to draw and output more at the higher level models, which wears them faster and causes them to fail sooner.
so i need a ~700watt power supply so according to you i should get something like a bequiet straight power 11 750w since it's the lowest in it's family or an i misunderstanding something?
I actually found this advice useful thanks OP
yeah that's what I also understood
meanwhile, in reality, in the world of commercial use of computers (datacenters etc) you have enough power supply failures in servers that it justifies redundant power supplies, hot swappable power supplies, and additional PSU monitoring sensors (all of which cost money).
>commercial applications are consumer applications
It's like you don't read or something. This thread is terrifying me about the future of humanity.
what is your claim, that PSU manufacturers re-label a single product 5 times to make money off of idiots? Because your claim that running a PSU at 90% capacity or whatever is best isn’t always true.
>running a psu at 90% capacity
>a psu
A PSU is made up of many components. When a product range is based on a common board (most are these days) which common components would you consider to be running at 90% capacity, the ones in the 750W or the 1000W? You know the transformer itself is one of the most robust parts of the supply right? It's caveman tech. It's what comes before and after it that is silicon. That is the shit you need to consider.
>running electronics at lower temps is a bad thing!
https://www.edn.com/the-effect-of-temperature-on-failure-rate/#:~:text=As%20stated%20in%20the%20section,Arrhenius%20equation%20predicts%20this%20behavior.
>has no idea what he's talking about so keeps posting false narratives
So you think every component has its own heatsink now? And I already said to get more PSU than you need. I said to do that as long as that PSU falls in the lower band of a product line that contains common parts. For frick's sake moron, you can go UP in power by doing what I am saying. Don't breed, I beg you. Damn.
dilate
Youre an caddy little twat. The only thing you need worry about with a psu is
1. Is it powerful enough
2. Is it stable so i can overclock
3. Does it run cool
Turns out buying more expensive and overwatted psus run cooler than whatever youre suggesting. Youre trying to optimize something that cant be done because after everything having a cooler running system IS the only optimization that you should be worrying about after ensuring that its powerful and stable enough.
Heat degrades componants and comes mitigating heat comes at a cost. Cooling solutions on overwatted psus are better because they have to be. Fans are better. Heat sinks are better. Etc. The plain and simple truth that has been tested to death is that more expensive overwatted psus cool better leaving less heat for the rest of the system to deal with.
So if I'm running a 14900K, 4090, 4 drives, etc. and my calculator is saying about 985W, I should look for a 1000W Titanium PSU with others above it? In this case be Quiet!, Corsair, and Seasonic all have 1000W models, and 1200W above them. Is that the correct logic? Go with the 1000W instead of the 1300W because it can handle that higher wattage in case of transient spikes, but will idle at 1000W?
That's the idea, but I'd go a bit higher than 1000W. Maybe 1200.
I thought OP said overhead is a scam???
No, paying for fake overhead by moving to the upper end of a board design is scamming yourself. Find a PSU rated for 1200-1600 and you're golden. That's real overhead because you aren't taxing the hardware. Assuming it was engineered competently, obviously. Which it should be to handle 1600.
>My overhead is real and yours is fake
sounds like you are pushing the scam now
Thanks! As for extra spending though, would splurging on Titanium over Platinum over Gold guarantee any sort of benefit in noise or visible reliability for high end parts or is that all buzz too? Most of the 1200W ones are Plat in a family with 850W Gold as the lowest and maybe 1200 is top.
>Which it should be to handle 1600.
it won't because it doesn't have the same through hole components, mainly mosfets.
some surface mount components could also be modified, like in one PSU it replaces the capacitor discharge IC.
ok but what's the best brand
You're conditioning people by calling them NPCs for not believing you. You are a manipulative snake.
lol, expecting morons to understand your argument from an industrial level. Also industrial psus are designed specific to the hardware they are powering which perform specific repeatable tasks within a spec. It's hardly a useful comparison. The 24v PSU powering a control loop isn't anything like a computer psu except they are both rectifiers.
>industrial psus are designed specific to the hardware they are powering which perform specific repeatable tasks within a spec
Exactly, you moron. What the frick do you think the point of this thread is? A consumer PSU is basically that + upward expansion, which is where the trouble begins. Baseline is always going to be the most reliable, since (on designs with common components) those common parts are designed for top tier duty with bottom tier load. Once again, you can move UP product lines to hit this band. You can spend MORE money if you want. This was never about saving money on a PSU, kek. Just put that money toward more than a handful of components. Move to a better product family.
I made the mistake of thinking I was going to be talking to sentient beings in this thread. No wonder the media has such an easy time manipulating you spergs.
A. I don't care, B. expecting consumers to build their PC like a piece of industrial tech is moronic, this thread is pointless u gay
>being informed is moronic
Get your booster.
It's actually the sign of a good relay.
I've never needed to replace a power supply ever
Schizo thread
>engineer
Please don't swear. This is a children youtube channel
Only gay here who has any bant abilities.
No. I go to a brick & mortar store and pick up the boxes. Whichever one is the heaviest in my price range is what I get. Heavier = more copper = more reliable cooling = longer lifespan.
PSU manufacturer here, we fill those ones with lead and sand.
Dick smoker here, I open them up to check.
Turtle farmer here, I use them to keep the tanks warm
>Remember, these are constant output supplies
I'm still using a 1500w psu that I used for a 980gtx tri-sli on my 4090.
but what about the green future?
I too need some green with my hennessy.
It's strange that this was a common knowledge in Pc building a decade ago yet at some point people abandoned it for "more is better".
That's what happens when marketers control public perception
I went with a 1000w power supply because I was gonna buy a high end GPU and the last gen GPUs had power spikes and I was expecting it to be the same for the new gen.
Turns out they fixed that issue and I'm sitting here with 300w I realistically don't need. Maybe more.
I've had 2 cheap PSUs crap out on me and neither damaged anything else inside
moron
>Did you know that most of the time a 650W and 1000W PSU are simply the same unit being pushed harder up front?
If that were true then the efficiency graph of them would be the same (just truncated).
>Entire post hinges on: "you know that most of the time a 650W and 1000W PSU are simply the same unit being pushed harder up front?"
>doesn't post a single piece of proof to back up the claim
>ignores which shows it's wrong for at least one model line
OP always and forever is a homosexual.
Still waiting on OP's response.
>pushed harder
By what?
>up front
What could this mean?
A handful of swapped components on a common circuit, anon. Not a purpose-built circuit for 1000w, but one for a range that ends at 1000w.
Shut the frick up, you have no idea what youre talking about
>Do you want the same hardware constantly pushing 750W or 1000 when you only need 650W?
that's not how power supplies work, just look at cybenetics and you will see the efficiency of the PSU at certain wattages.
it's true that more expensive PSU's within the same range have the same circuit, but they do replace components with higher rated ones so that you can use more power, and sometimes they might even cut corners on protection / noise.
personally it's more important for PSU's to be audibly quiet (if you are already investing in a quiet CPU cooler and GPU), and to get a decent warranty on the PSU.
bronze PSU's are also cost effective if you are the type of person to never care about warranties. the lost of efficiency from bronze is like 10% max, just to spend 2x more one the PSU (most of the time your PC will be in low power so it's negligible).
You would save $80 in one year with 24/7 full power draw at 500watts (which is about a 50 watt difference between bronze and gold) for the cost efficiency to pay off itself (with a 20cent per kilowatt bill).
And that's after you spent like $876 on electricity.
people think that efficient PSU's are like stocks, where the power you save gives added interest or something, but in reality you are paying just for the warranty (better passive components like capacitors or protection only adds like $5-10 to the final product).
Anon, it's almost always the common components that fail. This is what happens when things are engineered to be as cheap as possible to break into market segments rather than for reliability.
Marketing works.
I've been using the same 650w psu for 13 years now. the "dood just get a 1000w psu" morons somehow became 99% of pc gamers over the course of last decade.
Buy the big round number and spend the time you saved with your family.
This isn't g nobody cares, we post porn(preferably dicky) on this board
>just buy an underpowered PSU and brick your build
Sure thing pro i'm gonna buy a 450w PSU right now.
OP what the frick was the point of 3 paragraphs to say "check if you need 700w then buy 700w if you need it", are you autistic?
>i need 700w psu
>buys 700w supply from a board designed for 300-700w
>why my psu fail?
Reading is your friend, friend.
Nothing like that in your post, in fact you flat out said a 650w and 1000w are exactly the same internally which is completely wrong and leads me to believe you have debilitating autism.
>i'm too stupid to understand what you're saying
>i am too lazy to read more than the first sentence
I know.
You rambled on for so long in the OP but now won't reply with anything but completely autistic greentexts which don't refute anything, is this some form of advanced trolling or what?
You can't understand the simple things I typed. What do you want me to do about it? There isn't anything I can type that I haven't already typed.
Manufacturers will design a board to handle a certain wattage range, and swap out a couple of cheap components to break down into models. Look for a PSU family that fits your requirements, yet has more models above your needs than below. This way you have what you need, yet the common components are designed to handle more power.
When manufacturing, swapping components costs money. Depending on the price of the component (very cheap ones) it will actually cost more to swap them than to keep the better ones. So the better ones will be used across the whole range of models. Do you understand this? Sticking near the bottom or middle of a range of models that share a common foundation will result in a much more reliable supply that outputs cleaner power. Find a supply that has the requirements you need that falls into this category.
Corsair RM750x here, how did I do OP?
Good. I went with the RM650x on this PC, after load testing the system. Our power supplies are nearly identical inside, save for 3 or 4 board components that cost about $4.
So wait, buying higher than what you currently need can reduce the lifespan of your PC?
>these are constant output supplies with mostly the same parts, save for coil and capacitor values
Professional baskerweaver here
Capacitors and inductors are NOT capable of increasing the wattage inside circuits, no matter how you swap them around
The only way this would be even remotely possible is if the manufacturer would deliberately lower the power factor by increasing the reactive power in the circuit, which would be completely moronic and it would result in MORE heat because reactive power turns into heat inside inductors, thus making the circuit more prone to failures
Either OP is a disingenuous lying homosexual or he doesn't have any idea what he is talking about and he is just larping as someone with triple digit IQ
>missed coils/transformers
Kek. All you had to do was keep reading but your impotent rage took over before you could do this.
The fact that you have no idea about manufacturing proves how much of a marketing victim you are; they go hand in hand. You can't possibly make good decisions without knowing this.
>just swap transformer bro
Ideal transformer doesn't exist you turboBlack person
As soon as you try to swap transformer inside a circuit you need to factor in the negative resistance due to the leakage flux, therefore you need to calculate new resistors inside the circuit, not to even mention the joule losses
Post proof or gtfo
>post proof for electricity basics
Lmao what do you want a link to a high school textbook. How can you be this stupid and still be alive
No, post proof that the components are the same, you daft moron.
What's wrong with me buying a platinum rated corsair psu that has way more overhead than I need?
>way more overhead
Running less current through the same components is more overhead, anon. You have it backwards. Get more wattage than you need, but not the "most". Also, how do you think a platinum rating is achieved? You realize they could double the output for a silver, right? Are you catching on yet?
thanks OP im gonna buy a pico psu for my 4090 build now
Dumb. The entire "overhead" argument is because they cool better and you dont have to buy a new one when gpu manufacturers start requiring 1000w power supplies.
The lower watt psus have dinky little fans and if you are maxing them out they generate a lot of heat that goes right into your gpu. Also, they arent constant output so youre a fricking moron.
>they aren't constant output
It's almost as if you don't know how resistors work.
You mean transformers and transistors.
The resistors/capacitors are for fine tuning the output of the transformer to meet a specific threshold.
The BJT or MOSFET does all the heavy lifting after that, which is why they put fricking huge heatsinks and a fan on them.
I know enough about consumer products and verified testing to know youre wrong.
>Remember, these are constant output supplies
>Remember, these are constant output supplies
>Remember, these are constant output supplies
holy shit, you are a fricking idiot.
You're not an electrical engineer and you have no fricking clue how a switched power supply works or what an efficiency curve is.
Optimally, you want a power supply that regularly operates at 40-60% of its rated capacity.
I don't know what any of this means. I bought the Corsair RM1200x shift so the plugs were facing me and it was easier to build, and I figured I would get extra power because who the frick knows how much power the 5090 or 6090 will use?
It's the same board as the RM850x with a bigger transformer. You fricked up, and should have gone up a few models to get a new board design.
don't listen to OP, he's a fricking homosexual and moronic Black person.
Here's the 850x and 1200x boards from the same angle side by side.
Still at it, huh? Pathetic.
This post was ignored because it spoke the truth.
Stop samegayging, nobody fell for it
Try again, nerd.
>implying you can't shoop that in .5 seconds
>implying you aren't phoneposting
>ignoring the fact that the post wasn't even ignored like you claimed
Please.
Who are you quoting?
>now people are pretending to be op and responding to themselves
Kek. All because you were losing an argument. Like I said... mental illness runs strong here.
>ctrl+f
>amps
>0 results
you guys dont know what the frick you're talking about
Cringe LARPer right here doesn't even know why we don't need to mention amps. Doesn't realize the answer is coming out of his wall and having sex with the number printed on the side of his PSU.
>what is transient amperage
>what is running less amperage through the same components because you are more concerned with quality and longevity than muh big number muh anime girl on box
there's some israelite controller that shuts down the psu if it exceeds the power even if the units are the same
To the 2 other people in here who seem to have some grasp of electronics: Good. But now learn about manufacturing. Where do you think the engineer meme comes from? Engineers are autistic and insist on engineering the perfect solution. But you can't do that in consumer electronics. You have to work around manufacturing and sales. Look and learn.
PSUs are typically most efficient around 50% load. This difference of 2-4% can outweigh the increase in price, particularly if you are in Europe or somewhere with high power costs, combined with a computer using a lot of power on a consistent basis.
>mfw using the same PSU for the last 10 years
You can test for voltage spikes on the 12v rail pretty easily. If its going way out of spec (you can check the specs online) you should get a new one as it can fry your shit. My old psu started frying all the usb ports on my mobo which was better than frying my cpu i guess.
It can only fry it if it goes over the spec, not under. Just to clarify.
pic is me and my seasonic
rm850x
rm1200x
I'm currently running an i7 7700k & GTX 1080 build which puts my PC at just about 7 years old. I'm using a power supply that is more powerful than needed for my builld. My PC has had 0 issues in 7 years.
Before that I was running an i5 2500k for nearly 10 years and again, no issues with an overwatted build. Sounds like OP is full of shit.
>how do i reading comprehension
This thread is scary.
You're a midwit.
His assumption is that all power supplies are the same and cool the same so theres no need to get an overwattes one. That assumption is pants-on-head-moronic and debooonked by watching a few youtube videos that test thermals. Even if the the improved thermals is marginal its still an improvement.
>OP claims to be an expert on a matter
>makes a claim
>immediately becomes hostile and defensive when asked for proof
>ignores, derides and insults others posting proof against his claims
Why? moron, troll or chink PSU shill?
my psu popped last year and when i got a new one i was scared that the clicking noise when starting my pc was going to damage my pc
I just go off of whatever the /pcbg/ says on Ganker
>Electrical *ngineer here
Show your degree.
>prove that you have a mediocre career
Says more about you than OP, you failure.
>tfw Jonnyguru died
They were such a useful site, doing full PSU teardowns and component analyses as part of every review.
what the hell is that demonic implement
?
what is this evil thing
What's that behind it?
is that for space photograhpy what the frick is that camera
A motorized German equatorial mount and 11 inch Schmidt-Cassegrain reflector optical tube
>Remember, these are constant output supplies with mostly the same parts, save for coil and capacitor values. Do you want the same hardware constantly pushing 750W or 1000 when you only need 650W
Some electrician you are. My UPS says a 650w PSU is drawing only ~100w when not under heavy load.
>pre
>post
Derp
Why do you think they can meet increased demand so quickly? GPUs changed everything. Well, almost. We're still to smelly to get solid state and instead get dirty pleb windings and glue splooge. We get what we deserve.
What
Are you trying to explain the concept of reactive/apparent power or something?
OP is there anyway to keep the original Nintendo Switch from overheating during intensive play say 2+ hours it starts sounding like a literal jet engine getting afraid it could melt soon
Not him, but it'll absolutely shut down before it gets hot enough to melt anything. High temps will damage ICs over time but it's not like you're gonna use the Switch this often for the next 10 years.
t. Computer Engineer (derogatory)
Lucckily it doesn't fricking matter as PSUs are often the last to fail anyway and the whole point of buying a higher wattage one, is to future proof it to save needing to buy a new one everytime you upgrade
So yeah, frick your stupid ass advice even if it was correct
PSUs are by far the highest failure rate component, next being RAM. Caused by... wait for it... dirty power.
LMAO
Maybe if you are using cheap ass chink shit at near full capacity then yes.
But my PSUs never fail on any builds either, because I know what I'm doing. If you rely on dumb luck, that's fine too. You lucked out. Well done, consooomer.
Congrats, you didn't buy cheap chink shit which are responsible for tnis misconception of psus having a high failure rate.
Any psu worth its salt should last you 10+ years
>worth its salt
In the lower band of a core model range. Yes. Bet it lower or upper tier. Yes. The difference between us is that I actually understand the definitions of your arbitrary terms.
>aggressively trying to "help" people he obviously looks down on
>censors the "e" in "engineer" for some reason
>using "mental illness" insult to try and fit in when he's clearly the mentally ill one
Yep. There are more checks, but frankly, the weird censoring yourself thing makes me disregard anything else you say
Get a hold of yourself, anon. Consider the possibility that you don't know board etiquette or memes.
>gets triggered by the censoring
It was ingenious.
For me, it's my 1600w power supply that I'll never have to replace
But anon the psu will fail before other parts in your machine due to psus having high failure rate
At least that is what some moronic anon said
I bet you've never even done board repair. I also bet you're poor.
I don't do psu board repairs because I haven't looked into doing it because i never had a psu fail on me. Why would i waste my time learning something that I won't ever need to know because i don't use cheap ass chink shit?
>psu board repair
Kek. Who repairs something as cheap as a PSU? I repair industrial controllers, you dork.
In the context if this thread a board repair would imply one done to a psu
Otherwise why would you bother bringjng it up when it isn't relevant? That is right, you have been booty blasted by anons this thread and are an extremely insecure person thus the need to seek validation from random homosexuals.
Except from now on you're going to be aware of model families and will pay more to move up a tier even though you won't admit it.
I don't even know what model families are even now
I don't care for that knowledge
Being able to wire up some light bulbs does not make you an expert on computer components. Tradies love to think they know everything but electricians are on a whole different level
I post my personal projects on Ganker. Machining, coding, wiring.
Wrong, Nvidia ruined the GPU market forever, official power specs are inaccurate and can't be trusted.
You're right, but I've been an AMD boy since 2005.
ITT: Clueless consumers squirm to justify their low-information approach to buying PSUs based on marketing appeal. I think I may have helped 2 people though, so that's great.
The power supply isn't "pushing" power you fricking homosexual tradestard. Any dumbass with a multimeter can very easily check what the power draw is. A 1000W power supply isn't going to randomly draw 600W of extra power if your system only needs 400W.
>draw more power
Input doesn't change, dork. Your system draws from the PSU. Also what your PSU is outputting to your system is not what it is producing. It is what it is outputting. You really think when your CPU and GPU suddenly demand more power that they are going to wait for a toroidal transformer to step up? Kek. It isn't 1995 anymore, dork.
jesus christ this is the level of education that trades-"people" have
>doesn't capitalize or use punctuation
You're not very convincing, anon.
Go grab your multimeter and prove your claim right now. It should be absolutely trivial for you to prove this.
>thinks the transformer's current and its output to the motherboard are the same
Do you know what microcontrollers, capacitors, and resistors are for anon? You think they are just there for show?
Hey moron, you said
>Remember, these are constant output supplies with mostly the same parts, save for coil and capacitor values. Do you want the same hardware constantly pushing 750W or 1000 when you only need 650W?
This is absolutely false, and you would be able to demonstrate your claim very easily by getting the voltage and amperage readings on a fresh booted PC with any wattage rating power supply. You claiming that PC PSUs are constantly drawing their max rated wattage is so insanely fricking moronic I'm surprised you'd attempt to claim to work on electronics.
>drawing
Kek. Holding, anon.
>resorting to pedantry
I accept your concession, tradestard
>pedantry
You literally have no idea what you're saying and it matters a lot. There is more to a PSU than muh input muh output. It's what goes on between that will kill a PSU. Measure one at the transformer if you can't understant.
How is the PSU creating 1000 watts if it's not getting all of it from the wall?
>electrical wires are the same as a garden hose
>electricity is just water bro
Kek. Go to school.
Where did I imply such a thing? Now you're just getting desperate
>b-but you can't have more current going out than going in
Yeah, it's weird how yout motherboard can handle 120 volts too, right? That's what's going in so it must be what's coming out, right?
Are you actually trying to imply that the wattage draw from the wall won't equal what you measure at the output because of the transformer stepping down the voltage? Did you fail middle school electronics?
>drawing
The only thing your PSU is drawing is the exact same 120 AC regardless of what it outputs. Stop humiliating yourself.
>volts are amps
holy fricking shit you are insanely moronic
nuh uh
>thinks power supplies draw current on-demand in realtime depending on what the system requires
Anon... if that were possible the only thing you'd need on the board is the transformer. Why do you think your PC can stay on when the power flickers?
The PSU has capacitors and inductors to smooth out the power fluctuations. A 1000 watt rated PSU does not output 1000 watts at all times. If it did it would need to draw that from the wall at all times. If you're claiming it doesn't draw this at all times but it outputs 1000 watts at all times, you need to explain where this magic power is coming from
>if that were possible the only thing you'd need on the board is the transformer.
Maybe you should have sprung for the DC powered computer you colossal homosexual. Take this troll shit to Ganker, you'll get more bites
This dumb c**t thinks electronics are ordering electric current and waiting for it to be delivered like it's Amazon
I don't get it, is a 400w psu is alright for a 4090. Corsair never dissappoints btw
Where does my PSU push all the constant excess power output that's not being drawn by components?
It's almost as if you don't understand AC current.
As depressing as this thread is, I know 2 people were helped. This is good.
>Buy psu just barely above my needs
>upgrade some other part down the line
>now psu is choking and needs to be switched
>parts have gotten even more expensive
This is dumb. Unless you're going some absurd amount over your current needs ample voltage room is good.
Kek. Things are getting more efficient though, not less. If you need to make that big of a jump you're bottlenecking yourself elsewhere. And you have still missed the point of the thread: Get a 5000W PSU if you want, as long as the model family it is in rises in model numbers rather than decreases.
I swear, zoomers are incapable of reading multiple sentences and drawing meaning, then coming to logical conclusions via critical thought processes. You're all so emotional that you make up your mind and start typing your responses halfway into the first sentence. This is your brain on TikTok.
>Unironically thinks that reliability between bottom and top model varies enough to justify losing actual several percents of efficiency
Wake up, it is not 2010, capacitors long ago became reliable enough not to worry about actual components failures(if you are not bying cheap-ass chink shit). And also to actually lover chances of PSU failure better to buy good online or line-interactive UPS
I haven't had any component fail in over a decade.
I don't even know who is trolling who in this thread just don't buy a pos psu that burns your house down and you will be good
Op wrote "lifehack" and begun trolling anons-consumers, who while sensig that he's mocking them could not formulate coherent answer due to their incompetence, while ignoring anyone actually competent who points on his trolling.
PSU are one of the few parts you can still get 5-10 year warranties for.
Unless you're buying chink garbage, its pretty much good to go.
Joke is on you. I use a custom microhydroelectric power supply to power my PC.
The reason why PSUs blow up is dirty power. The electricity in most cases is dirty and should get cleansed - using special cables and earth boxes. It also helps to use ceramic stands under the computer case itself too.
The best way to ensure the power is sufficiently clean is to buy your own power line.
To stop this pathetic trolling here have efficiency ratings in ratio with load
>TitanLum
Please, anon.
So I guess you have nothing to say about actual theme other than spellcheck random picture I found in 10 sec.
if OP had posted an image showing what he meant by getting the lower end within a certain PSU family, and stepping up to a new family if more power is desired (rather than going up within the family), I think 90% of the arguments wouldn't have happened
words are hard, brain need pictures with circles
You know, I was going to but I haven't been able to post an image since
I don't know if it's because I deleted them or what, but it's done now. No image posting allowed for me. Maybe things work differently on this board.
Wouldn’t it be simpler to just recommend us some power supply’s? Anyway pretty sure my evga g2 750 is fine
I think it's a teach-a-man-to-fish kinda thing
I'm doing a NAS build in pic related. What's the most power efficient SFX PSU that will mostly run at low loads but can also power 6-8 HDDs?
I'd power the HDDs individually, and externally. The system won't notice.
Makes sense, thanks.
I was lying though.
You are a piece of shit underage b&.
Efficiency at near maximum load, what a joke
That's why you go for the babby PSU with the gold rating. Just about every lineup has one.
moron here, what's wrong with it? Every tier seems more efficient at every load.
I’m not sure what point they’re trying to make, but here’s the efficiency curve of a typical PSU.
a donut shaped coil
So you're telling me this 1000w PSU is actually 650w? Because that's what I'm hearing.
https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/psu/cp-9020201-na/rmx-series-rm1000x-1000-watt-80-plus-gold-fully-modular-atx-psu-cp-9020201-na
OP is a jackass and doesn't know how to talk in 'layman's' terms to proper laypeople. Autism or headupass syndrome
What OP is saying is to do more research than you rationally can. IF Corsairs 650w model is using the same board as the 1000w, AND IF you need less than 650w, then yes, the 650w model what you want.
But odds are, corsairs 650w model is NOT using the same board as the 1000w model.
Instead, saying you need 650w, there might be a 700w, or 500w, or something in proximity, which does. You want to find which product lines actually use the same internals. OF THOSE, if the highest model is 700, you only need 600, but the 500w model (which shares the same internals) exists, then get the 500w, because it's the same shit at the 700, and you're still 'over-provisioning' your PSU.
I don't believe it's actually true, nor worth trying to find out (conclusively) which PSU models are functionally identical internally, but at least this is the extent to which I understand OP is trying to use words.
They move traces to make room for larger components and heat sinks. If you knew how to read a schematic you'd see this. Also look at the 95% of the components that are identical in value. Also look at heat... if larger PSUs were truly running with a lot of overhead on a lesser system, they'd be fine with smaller heat sinks. But they aren't.
then those clearly wouldn't be the same board, and not apply to what I believe OP was saying
You can move traces without changing common components or code. It's the same board design, just a different layout. There's a difference.
Basically. But instead of going for the 500w, find a different line of PSU that starts at your power needs. So if you need 650W, find a brand that starts at 650W, instead of one that has 650W further along the line.
Would a Corsair 650 Watt 80 plus Gold be enough for a Ryzen 5 1600 and an RTX 3060 12GB?
Go for 750. It's the 12V rails that people keep killing anyway. Stop being so addicted to fans.
>an "electrical engineer" who doesn't know ohm's law
why did this thread get 230 replies
241.
>Black person attending to his first year in university comes to 'educate' the masses
>Electrical Engineer here
>constantly pushing 750W or 1000 when you only need 540W
Imagine killing your entire post at the very end because of your own stupidity.
I can buy a 1500w psu and it will ONLY output as much power being drawn. It doesn't constantly run at full power draw you absolute fricking mongoloid
Kek. Measure it at the transformer.
Why don't you and show us the voltage and amperage?
Note where the transformer is in this diagram. If you buy a 1000 watt power supply for "overhead" then it is supplying 1000 watts for no reason, and you are making everything downstream hold back excess current for longer, for no reason.
Do you know what a transformer does?
The part you're overlooking is that it supplies power that is has prepared before it is needed, with a small buffer from capacitors.
So show us that it's outputting the max current at all times
>outputting
Kek. Electricity isn't water.
You've said output a bunch of times in this thread, have a nice day and prove your claim you homosexual.
>you used a word sometimes, you should use it all the time
Output and supply are different, you turd.
Show that the current measurement on the wire after the transformer is at the maximum rating the entire time the computer is on
Depends if its an Autobot or Decepticon.
ITT:Several morons trolling each over over units
ok mr. electrinal engginer how do i get rid of the ground loops fricking up my audio?
Optical.
FOR real or just memeing?
i want to hear e-girl breathing noises without that fricking buzz
If you don't want to do that, at least get shielded cables and make sure they don't run parallel to AC. Across it is fine. If you're using a card, make sure to move it as far away from your GPU as you can, then try away from the PSU. You can get a shield for it as well. I just use optical running to a DAC.
I thought they only draw as much power as they use though.
how'd I do?
Fantastic bait. Holy shit I got mad just reading that.
what's wrong with my rig 🙁
Not him, but for me it would be not using AMD or Linux, using a HDD, using liquid cooling in 2023, and Nvidia card.
>AMD
just as israelited as israelitevidia but with shittier drivers
>Linux
just as pozzed as Windows but less user friendly
>HDD
imagine not using a HDD for a download driver
>liquid cooling
got me there, shop was out of good aircoolers when I bought the rig
>shittier drivers
Kek... not on Linux
>pozzed as windows
Cope harder. Although I don't think it's possible.
>less user friendly
Filtered.
didn't Linux issue a public announcement about it being run by trannies?
There is no "linux", anon. Linux is you. You are Linux. Do whatever you want with it. Use whatever file manager or front end you want. I get 10-20% higher framerates in all games on Linux, and haven't found a single game that I couldn't run yet. I haven't had a single game crash in well over 3 years.
but I like thinking that glowies are monitoring me through Windows 11
helps relieve the loneliness
>i5
Get the i9 for 150 bucks more
>liquid cooling
are you planning on overclocking? if not don't bother.
>64GB of ram
I mean, that's more than over kill. With the price of ram the way it is, I'd say just get 32 GB. Do you see a need for 64? What will you use it for?
>3 different types of storage, one of which isn't even priced or available.
Yeah I get buying the cheap SSD, installing the OS on it, and putting everything else on the HDD, but bro if you're already buying an NVME ssd just get a 4TB one for 200 bucks.
>1000 dollars for the GPU alone.
What the FRICK are you trying to do? If you want 4k at 60-144fps fine but if you want to do anything else it's ridiculous to spend that much on a GPU. Frick that shit.
>Buying windows
>Buying windows ELEVEN
bro you can do what ever, but I can't stand 11. Also just make your own installer on a USB and buy a code off of GOG or some shit for 20 dollars.
>curved monitor
>no price listed
C'mon.
>Buying windows
I just listed it there as the OS
I upgraded from a cracked 10 OS using windows update
>I just listed it there as the OS
How was I supposed to know that anon? With all the other moronic shit in your build, I would have not been surprised if you spent 200 dollars on a windows installer CD.
There's honestly less need to get the i9 this CPU generation.
For me, it's emulation. Emulating PS3 and 360 better than it could natively feels good man. But yeah it all depends on what you're trying to do.
I've been emulating PS3 games about as well as they can be emulated with a 13700k, although I only go for 1440p. Honestly feels like a 13600k would've worked too.
I had to upgrade from my i5 6500 that I had for 8 years. So when I upgraded I wanted to go over kill on the CPU this time rather than doing what I did last time and bottle necking my system later. Still, 8 years aint bad.
There was a bundle for the i9 13900k, a Z790 MOBO and 32GB of DDR5 6000MHz ram for 800usd so It seemed like a decent deal. Saved 130 bucks if I had bought everything separately.
>emulating PS3
Get a Ryzen 7 7800X3D then.
>Get the i9 for 150 bucks more
the only thing I do with my PC that's using over 50% of my CPU is using HandBrake reencode my porn to x265 to save space
>4070ti (anything below a RTX 4090 is a rip-off dogshit gpu this gen, just buy a used last-gen card with more vram or blow your load on a 4090
>storage, as has already been mentioned
>64gb is overkill when your other components are not maxed out yet
>intel cpu (the extra 100W vs AMD will cost you a fair bit vs an AMD cpu)
>going for anything other than the cheapest motherboard on the chipset you want
>curved chink monitor
for anything other than the cheapest motherboard on the chipset you want
Enjoy your capacitors blowing up and random blue screens out the ass
Caps will probably be fine, it's the drivers.
>cheapest motherboard
>he doesn't know how you can get fricked over by cheapo mobos
ngmi
Yeah, cheapest is just stupid. Chipsets can be a bottleneck in several ways.
nice ai post Black person
>it doesn't matter what's between your cpu and your ram
Kek.
>MUH CHIPSET
> JUST BUY A B650 moron
LITERALLY ANY B650 WILL DO
>he thinks it's just shitty chipsets that you need to be worried about
When did I say that? I know people usually tell you to take your meds, but I'm going to suggest flushing them. Clear your mind, anon.
>not using linux
These maps are old. It's even worse now. Imagine making your PC do this
When it could be doing this... and LARPing as Windows faster than Windows can be Windows if you want, using Wine.
Modern Windows is just a mess of telemetry, it's way worse than now.
What am I even looking at here?
System calls. Bear in mind that Linux can translate Windows calls. In other words you can make
programs run in
with practically no overhead. Wine doesn't emulate, it translates. So you get to enjoy Windows programs without the absolute disaster under the hood. If you think your Windows PC is fast, try Linux. If you have AMD CPU and GPU, that is. They are way more Linux-friendly. Hell, AMD paved the way with Vulkan.
spiders in the system
Bear in mind that's Windows Server, which is "efficient" and bare bones compared to Home/Pro.
moron here
just let pcpartpicker pick your part and buy that
>Do you want the same hardware constantly pushing 750W or 1000 when you only need 650W?
if your PC draws 650w, they'll both be pushing 650w moron. One will be less efficient because the load will be towards the middle of it's efficiency curve instead of near the top where PSUs are most efficient.
Most PSUs are most efficient at 50% load.
nta, but they used to be, not anymore
>not anymore
?
>system load
>not psu load
Marketing wank, anon.
>grasping at straws
????
>not anymore
??
>not anymore
???
>my efficient 1600w psu died today
>i guess maybe i needed 2000w
Keep chasing that dragon, op. Or put your money where your mouth is and buy a 3000W mining supply and wonder why it's so hot.
>op
wut
>fell for the marketing bs
Measure at the transformer. Do it.
If your PC was asking for 650W and the PSU was trying to push 1000, you'd be frying shit. It'll push 650W, but pull more than that from the wall, depending on how efficient it is.
No, the transformer will make much more than that in anticipation of it being needed, when it won't ever be. That gets absorbed by the rectifier.
there's plenty of examples of people measuring PSU wattage draw at the wall under load. And accounting for inefficiency usually adds up to what the PC is asking for. Tell me how the PSU is pushing more wattage than it's pulling from the wall.
Measure it at the transformer. Go ahead, I'll wait.
>anon never heard of the electricity bill
>anon's living with his parents
No, you moron. The unused power gets sent back into the grid, but it's still flowing through the transformer.
>knows how ac works
My dude.
>npc gif
I bet you think electricity flows through wires.
At least I pay for my electricity
I already told you, go to Ganker and you can see my projects. I'm currently building a telescope autoguider. Here I am machining the stainless OTA that doubles as a heatsink.
bump
Sorry, anon, I'm too lazy to download more laughing gifs.
You were the first moron who made me get one but this is getting old, so I'm gonna tap out.
>i didn't have a laughing gif before
>i got one just for you
>honest
Bye.
Yes, you were indeed this impressive.
Be proud of yourself!
>i'm actually even more pathetic than you thought
Kek.
ngmi. Stop trying to posture bro. It just makes you look insecure and pathetic. I remember when I used to be like this. Try to do better bro.
>another gif
Feed me. Tell me again how I don't pay for electricity, that was really secure behavior.
bro, I'm not even that anon.
I'm this one.
Sorry bro. It's done. You rambled your way into a corner again. Lol. Lmao even.
>another gif
>on an IMAGE BOARD.
>IT MUST BE HIM
bro...come on.
Dance, monkeys. Both of you.
OOOHOOOH RAAAHAHAHHAHAA
OP's an attention prostitute in a desperate need of a new fix, please understand, he'll do literally anything to get it
>op gives information
>anons make personal attacks
>omg op is making everything about himself
You literally dance to your own tune, monkey. I'm just clapping.
>you should get the most powerful supply you can for overhead
All I know is that the Corsair AX860 (860W; obviously) couldn't handle the long transient spikes my RTX 3090 produces, randomly causing reboots under load. I replaced it with a 1000W Seasonic PSU, and the problem went away.
Ay thank for the explanation OP
I'm going to buy a 650w greatwall PSU for my 13900k+7900xtx build 🙂
This is BULLSHIT.
There are SOME psus that are like that but they aren’t that common.
THEN YOU ARE EXPECTING THE moronS IN HERE TO BE ABLE TO FIND THEM?
You are just as stupid as them your fricking moron.
>bullshit
>some
>aren't that common
Look at all of these metrics.
Is platinium worth it?
Also, which brands do you recommend?
It's worth it if you care about saving $18 per year. If you're after longevity/reliability then you have to take a much deeper dive I'm afraid.
>deeper dive
And that is?? what is there a website where they take apart all the parts of PSU and talk about the components or what?
You'd have to look at the output across its entire range while measuring thermals.
Also with the same sized heatsink on them all to get accurate measurement of heat generated vs dissipated.
Better off measuring submerged in mineral oil so you can measure the thermals of the entire circuit.
you will only save $18 if you spend around ~$200 on your electrical bill just from your PC, and the efficiency difference is 10%.
The problem is, to pay $200 on electricity, with 20cents per kilowatt, you would need to power your PC to 1 kilowatt for 1000 hours. not impossible for a whole year, but pretty unlikely for gamers who don't spend all their time gaming (and by pushing your PC so hard, you are probably also wearing your components hard too).
SeaSonic, EVGA, Corsair.
Unironically look up a few "PSU tier lists", glance at their methodology so it makes sense, and then pick whatever is high tier that is not overpriced where you live.
>Is platinium worth it?
Yes and no.
A properly certified 80+ is generally mandatory by this point because companies rarely skip it when their product can easily pass it.
By the book, the difference between 80 Bronze and 80 Titanium is fairly trivial but in reality, Platinum/Titanium stuff is simply more premium, so it is subject to higher QA standards and whatnot.
So while Platinum isn't supposed to tell you anything about the PSU outside of its efficiency, it generally does.
The QA would be true if it were made in Japan, but if it's made in China the whole thing is pretty much a crap shoot.
>A properly certified 80+ is generally mandatory by this point
Problem with 80+ is companies tend to ship review units with higher specs than the retail one.
Remember, those common components are just taken into consideration to get you just past your warranty period. If you fly too close to the sun you know what can happen, and it won't be from taxing your PSU.
I buy PSU based on how much power do I need and how many years of warranty it has
>mercury 4hp, 5hp, 6hp outboards are all the same block
>had better buy the 6hp, it won't have to work as hard to push my boat
Meanwhile it's just the same motor doing more RPM with a bigger carb. Only difference is you'll go faster unlike with a bigger PSU.
>4090
with 420mm AIO
>48GB RAM
>2 m.2, 1 SSD, 1 HDD
>0 RGB
Which PSU am I buying?
Go for a 2000 one to dunk on le enigtrical engiqueer itt
first year electrical engineering student here*
not giving you any (you)'s, tard, but keep responding, that'll make you seem less desperate, trust me
>not giving you any (you)'s
I'm not sure you could seem any more desperate, kek. Keep falling for the manufacturer marketing tactics of getting you to pay twice as much for the same hardware + $4 of swapped parts to get dirty power.
the reason why 1200 watt PSU's have a different board is because they use multiple 12v rails, which is not used in lower end PSU's because they are less efficient (you can look at cybenetics, 600-800 wattage gets platinum efficiency, 1000 watt gets gold, but if you spend $300 on a 1000 watt PSU it will go back to platinum), but it's necessary because you don't need 1200watts for gaming, unless you buy a i9 + 4090, and you are probably making a farm and you don't want all 12v rail components to spread damage in a fault.
>he' still responding
LMAO, how mindbroken and desperate for even an ounce of attention can OP be
>literally can't stop posting
>thinks if he doesn't (you) this looks less pathetic
>it just looks more pathetic
My dick's bigger than yours too.
Great thread, OP. Well done. Huge fan of your work here and on Ganker. You are extremely intelligent, funny, and handsome. Also I am OP.
>no proof
Just like every other post you made
no dick, no balls, no skills, no life, but all talk, sad really
>trying to trick op into showing his dick and balls
Kek, suppress your urges or go to /lgbt/
the burden of proof lies on the maker of the claim
If he cant prove it, he is a certified dicklet malding and coping itt for his tiny shrimp dick
>PLEASE post your dick and balls
>PROVE me wrong
>i'll wait here
bet you need all those telescopes and Ganker shit so you can finally be able to see your dick and balls, lmao
>PLEASE, I AM BEGGING YOU
>POST YOUR DICK AND BALLS
Kek. If you put in the effort in an archive, you can find them linked to on Ganker. You have to work for my dick, bro. I ain't just gonna slap it down for you.
Can't slap down what you don't have, chump
We already proved that the only thing you're good at is lying through your teeth, keep coping and deflecting
I can guarantee that even those epic photos of "you" machining your epic contraptions are just photos you asked your dad to make in his garage while you shitpost down in the basement while the rest of your family laments about the disappointment their son turned out to be
You think like a teenager.
Nice reply bro, don't forget to repost and flex this epic ownage on Ganker
>can't into electricity so rages about penises for an hour
You do you.
I have a master's in EE and work as an energy storage engineer instead of going on Ganker and thinking I'm the hottest shit for flexing 1st year uni knowledge, but you do you
>flexing knowledge
Man, society has sunk so low.
He sees someone helping and gets mad because he wants to be a knowledge gatekeeper. That or he legitimately learned something from this thread and it made him insecure.
Kek, the latter for sure
Pretty sure i could figure it out in a pinch
You can explain knowledge in a genuinely helpful way that ordinary people would understand and follow up with actual proofs and elaborations or you can be a pretentious fart sniffer with a head up your own ass who doesn't elaborate anything, brings 0 value to discussions and when presented with arguments that might (or might not) go against the so-called "knowledge" he oh so graciously bestowed upon the unwashed masses, instead of elaborating why or why not exactly this is wrong, just deflects, shitposts or answers with fallacies.
You chose the latter because you want to stroke your own ego, simple as, you had the chance to make an actually intelligent discussion and you failed miserably because it was never your intention to begin with
>basic common knowledge about production is too hard for me to grasp
ngmi
Thanks for proving my point.
You need to learn how to take information and make use of it. Nobody is going to hold your hand for the rest of your life. If you want to be insecure and rant about fart sniffing and ego stroking then that's fine too. But try to not be so angry all the time.
I already know all that information, moron, consider stopping acting like some sort of a high and mighty PSU guru for spouting basic electronics 101, you're not special and neither is the info you are giving
Black person
YOU CAN'T EXPLAIN SHIT
SHUT THE FRICK UP
OP is correct. Every 1200w PSU I had was a pile of shit that broke after 3 years. Best PSU I ever had was a 700w one that was gold rated. Shit that thing lasted 10 years and as far as I am aware it is still going in my friends gfs machine which is my old old computer.
And you had no coil whine either, I'm sure. Yes, the right PSU is a game changer.
>do you actually know what's inside these?
Power
Surely the lower wattage model would have its overcurrent/voltage/etc protection tuned to that voltage?
>117 posters
>only 4 people not losing their minds as far as i can tell
Doing God's work, OP
>post power supply info
>390 posts later people are begging for your dick
Yep, it's Ganker.
Thanks for the tip. I'll keep that in mind.
Does the rtx 40x series run on 650w power supplies, because I highly doubt it.
So this thread is just some random autismo trying to make anons open their PSUs and plop their balls on it's inside?
20 years assembling dozens of pcs, never once have i had a PSU that killed my entire system. Cope homosexual OP
Give me one (1) reason why your pc doesn't have two psus like mine.
It doesn't need to.
Oh
>it is worth noting that a higher wattage power supply will consume more electricity, which can increase the user's electricity bill
-ChatGPT
B-but I thought it will only draw what it neeeeeds
>B-but I thought it will only draw what it neeeeeds
oh sweat summer child. it doesn't work like that
>using obsoleted tech that delivers inaccurate answers
Literally nobody is saying to use a lower wattage psu than you need. They are saying to make sure it's designed to handle more power than it is outputting rather than just buying 2 or 3 models up without checking. It's the same logic as using a higher output psu.
Read hwbusters lab reports.
Most high end psu run super efficient at 10-60% of their capacity. So no, a 650w psu is not better for 500w system than a 1000w psu.
Your chatbot is outdated
It is if the 1000w is just the 650w with some lipstick on. There's another 1000w out there that's much better, and it has a 1500w sister with lipstick on.
Rvery psu has its own power efficient curve. They are not the same
>when you change the transformer and capacitors on a power supply board it has a different curve
Shocking.
>high end
Exactly...high end. Not pushed to its limits. Go up a tier. Pick the 1000w from the 1000w-1300w lineup. But not the 1300w. If you want a 1300w, go to the 1300w-1600w lineup. They release together because they are the same foundation.
Worst post I've seen in a long time
AI concurs. Watcha gonna do, go on a conspiracy rant? Put on your tinfoil hat, lmao
So a higher rated power supply will provide overhead, but choose one that's designed to output even more than it will be. Makes sense! Informed customer is best customer.
I bought a GTX 4series and I'm running a 4 year o ld 650W PS right now, was thinking about upgrading but honestly I have no issues what so ever
>650w
I can almost guarantee that it is a board rated for 500-800 or 600-900, that's why it's doing so well. Even if it's running out of its efficiency band, it will be nowhere near overtaxed and will probably last a long time.
>Did you know that most of the time a 650W and 1000W PSU are simply the same unit being pushed harder up front?
not with the same efficiency rating
how does a Ganker thread have 400 replies on Ganker? bots?
>didn't read the rest
>will never know
The shared components aren't running more efficiently, they are running hotter. You could have them running efficiently if you bought a higher tier PSU that was in the lower range of its model family. Instead of just buying the bigger number in the same lineup.
>a Toyota Corolla with all the options
>the cheapest Acura
Walla
It's voilà, you uncultured swine.
Is this the thread?
I have single module of 32gb ram with 2666 frequency.
What would be better upgrade?
1. Buy another one to have 64 gb ram
2. Buy 2x16 gb ram with higher frequency instead.
Depends on the application, honestly. If you're never going to use 64 gigs then go with higher frequency. If you're going to play something like DCS World with shit open in the background, go for more.
I uh play video games and do video editing in pirated adobe products.
I play both pixel indeshit and big 3D games like Armored Core or Elden Ring.
I rarely touch western AAA game, but am planning to play new Jedi games eventually.
Go with 64.
Thanks.
What do you need 32gb-64gb of ram for? Are you playing 5 games at the same time? Either way, unless you're hitting memory cap, your speed gains will be better going for a better cpu or gpu while gaming. Most load screens are cpu or gpu based, hitching is generally hdd load into cpu or ram. Realistically, today, i would recommend hybrid 24gb of ram, or straight 32gb. Minimum 16gb, but I think you will get more disk read like that. Just make sure the mhz match on the RAM.
I just bought the peak efficiency on the graph and called it a day
This just always seemed like common sense to me. Like, why wouldn't the parts be different? I first noticed it when I had a 750W die, but then I bought a 650W from the same line and never had a problem with it, and my pc even ran better afterwards. Since then, I've always gotten just what I need in wattage and had 0 problems.
Yeah, I had a friend kill two 850W in 2 years running extremely inefficient software (Steel Beasts Pro PE map editor) and then I told him to get the 650 which is the same design. He's been fine ever since (over 3 years). I know his pain as well, because I use it too. It is hard on your system. I hate it.
samegay gay homo
Swing and miss, bro.
>750W die
moronic pseudoscience
>just gotten what i need in wattage
moronic
>steal beasts pro pe map editor
non existent software made up by ai
>he's been fine ever since
cool tiktok story bro
holy fricking Black person shit this board has gone down the drain might as well wipe my ass with it
Nice schizopost that's easily debunked.
you think you have the right to come talk here?
like a Black person?
hell no
I think OP is a pretty cool guy. Eh posts psus and doesnt afraid of anything.
I'm too braindead to understand what you guys are talking about.
How do I know how much wattage I need?
PSU family? What does that mean?
Lowest end of the PSU family? What does that mean?
I have been using my PSU without listening to that advice and I see no problem at all, why should I change now?
You've probably been cheaping out and that's been saving your ass. Just keep doing what you're doing.
If it works for you dont worry too much. Generally, I would just put the part list in pcpartpicker as it gives you the power wattage at the top
>muh power efficient
Good psus are very efficient at low load nowadays. You can get 1200w psu and it runs @ 80w just fine. At best you save 15$ a year.
This is the thinking that fricks you over, kek. Is that 1200w psu a different design or the same as the 800w but with $4 of shit slapped onto it? It will have lower thermals but actually be doing more work in other areas. The areas that fail because they aren't heatsinked.
I can't wait for LTT to look into this and you fanboi NPC trannies can parrot it as if you knew it your entire life.
>LTT
Oh no no no no who's gonna tell this boomer
That they stopped production for a week? It won't stop them from discussing this eventually, nor will it stop you from pretending you weren't fooled.
>watching cancelled youtubers
that's very cringe of you, boomerbro, s m h
You can't derail this thread, Moshe.
>namegay calling anyone else out
kys
Op my refurbished 450 watt psu for my 1050ti has been running without any issues since 2016, but doing a bit of a peep sound even when the computer is turned off. Schould I be concerned?
Yes, it's going to die. Don't be surprised if you start getting random hard resets or crashes soon.
I remember my psu failed on me one time and I used to heat it up with a hair dryer to get it started. Why did that work?
>superflower 1000w is 88℅ efficient from 100w to 700w
>"but muh low power psu is better. Aaaah Save me Linus"
Poorgays cope
>still can't comprehend what the thread is about
Kek. Try reading.
how is an smps rated? Is 700W peak load or average load?
based. I ran an RTX 3080 and Ryzen 5600X on a 650W power supply for years.
B A S. E D
A
S
E
D
>op exposes the israeli scheme
>the shills come crawling out of the woodwork to shit everywhere
very informative. thanks OP.
You're welcome. I could have worded it clearer sooner, but I'm used to smarter boards. I forgot where I was so 90% of people here completely missed the point.
but your original post was clear and comprehensible. I think it depends on whether the reader actually wants to analyze what's being said or whether they are so jaded that they just want to make any counter argument for the sake of banter.
Hi, op
Wrong again my dude. I'm OP, and so are you.
Thanks, Bro. It doesn't always apply though. Just usually. Regardless, it's easy to check several ways and something to be conscious of.
I've literally never, not ever, had a computer power supply fail.
>engineer
gooooooooooooood morning sirs!
>ctrl f
>engineer
Not seeing it in OP. Where are you getting this from?
Every poster in this thread should be executed, 12 hour long off topic schizo fight
get out, console babby
>mfw my 750w Gigabyte PSU has not blown up yet
Here's to 10 more years!