This. Not only is the build quality great but since it's essentially a digital PS1 pad that means any PlayStation to whatever else adapter works just fine with it.
You can even play PS3, PS4 and PS5 games using an adapter if the game has support for generic USB pads like some fighting games do.
The Namco NPC-102 is a typical HORI arcade stick of the time period.
The parts are of very high quality from all the photos I have found so far.
Hori made revisions to their arcade sticks over the years within the same console generation. Thus you may find different versions of controllers that look near identical externally.
I have not researched the Namco stick in-depth but it is possible there were multiple revisions of this product.
All versions of the Namco stick I have seen so far use the following
>buttons
Hori flat-top 30mm buttons withTokai MM9-2 soldered key-switches. These buttons are near identical in size and performance with Seimitsu PS-14-G buttons. Said Seimitsu buttons are classic 90s Japanese arcade buttons and were ubiquitous in the time period.
Personal rating: A+
>lever
Hori short-hinge lever with Omron-brand microswitches based on a Seimitsu design which was the standard for home arcade sticks. This design is compact and allows a small lever body to fit in a smaller controller casing. The shaft of the lever is shorter than average compared to a standard arcade lever. This changes the action slightly.
Personal rating: A
Note that there is nothing special about the Namco stick in particular and the Hori Fighting Stick PS and SS have near identical parts, or in some cases are arguably superior. I recommend the early revision Hori Fighting Stick SS which used Matsushita Switches and has the ability to have a PS1 connector soldered to the board to make a dual-system stick.
Well if you mean ITT you're correct. At least not until you posted it.
If you mean your silly made up terms are more real than someone elses silly made up terms then, no. All the silly terms that silly children make up are equally silly.
I make my own because I can, and do it better than any of the mass produced shit. Also because people are willing to pay good money for custom made stuff done by someone who doesn't need to watch a youtube to learn how.
Most 3Dprintgays are vile cringe. But there's nothing wrong with the technology. I 3D print a lot of stuff, especially where functionality what matters.
I don't use one because my right hand needs to be in a similar position to the one when I'm writing on a keyboard or using a mouse, and I do those things a lot. If I add an arcade stick on top of that, that's a sure way to develop arthritis. So I just play fighting games with a controller.
You would think that would be the case but my hands actually feel better when I use my arcade stick for a few minutes. The movement is different, somehow it exercises the hands in a way that provides some relief from the arthritis.
Why wouldn't you be able to?
Honestly the Mayflash sticks are pretty decent anyway, and their parts can be easily swapped if you want premium buttons/stick later.
>I dont wanna put down $140 for something I wont use that often
Maybe check ebay/gumtree for an old Madcatz, Hori, Razer etc. first. Several great 360/PS3 era sticks going for decent prices
Not a retro stick, but I use it for most all my retro arcade gaming and shmups.
I fricking love this thing. The steel base is great. Night weight (heavy that is) does not budge from it's place at all. It has a Noir button and stick layout so it has a comfortable bit of extra distance from the stick and the buttons. I don't even have huge hands but many sticks have everything just too close together.
colors where never planned but I think it came out okay, first I found the fake book in a dollar store and decided to build around that, then found the balltop marked wrong in a store so I got it for basically free and the dude that sold me the JLF threw in the blue buttons to sweeten the deal
colors where never planned but I think it came out okay, first I found the fake book in a dollar store and decided to build around that, then found the balltop marked wrong in a store so I got it for basically free and the dude that sold me the JLF threw in the blue buttons to sweeten the deal
This is such a simple build but has a cool and unique concept. Even the book aspect makes it easy for maintenance. I would invest in some latches or magnets to keep it securely close. dont want to drop it and all the guts spill out, potentially damaging it.
>modding a book
You're disgusting. Don't you realize that a limited number of those books were made? That they aren't ever going to make any more? That the machines required to make that book cost millions of dollars and no one knows how to run them anymore. And you go and destroy it so you can display it on your table and take pictures for likes and upvotes. You should have just given it to someone who would have enjoyed it the way the writers originally intended. To be displayed on a bookself.
The classic LS-32 and LS-40 arcade levers have long-hinge designs. This means that the microswitch has a long hinge which stick out past the length the switch. This is said to allow the user to have finer and more even control of exactly when the switch is engaged.
However, the short-hinge design appears in a great many console style levers as well as the Seimitsu LS-56, which is highly regarded as a very accurate lever. The LS-56 was the standard lever for Naomi-era arcade fighters.
Therefore I do not believe there is any downside to using it, it is a matter of personal preference and tuning to what you perform best with.
There is also the no-hinge design which is used by Sanwa in the JLF. The lack of hinges is replaced by a larger actuator.
This. Not only is the build quality great but since it's essentially a digital PS1 pad that means any PlayStation to whatever else adapter works just fine with it.
You can even play PS3, PS4 and PS5 games using an adapter if the game has support for generic USB pads like some fighting games do.
What made this stick so universally loved? Were the parts noticably high quality?
The Namco NPC-102 is a typical HORI arcade stick of the time period.
The parts are of very high quality from all the photos I have found so far.
Hori made revisions to their arcade sticks over the years within the same console generation. Thus you may find different versions of controllers that look near identical externally.
I have not researched the Namco stick in-depth but it is possible there were multiple revisions of this product.
All versions of the Namco stick I have seen so far use the following
>buttons
Hori flat-top 30mm buttons withTokai MM9-2 soldered key-switches. These buttons are near identical in size and performance with Seimitsu PS-14-G buttons. Said Seimitsu buttons are classic 90s Japanese arcade buttons and were ubiquitous in the time period.
Personal rating: A+
>lever
Hori short-hinge lever with Omron-brand microswitches based on a Seimitsu design which was the standard for home arcade sticks. This design is compact and allows a small lever body to fit in a smaller controller casing. The shaft of the lever is shorter than average compared to a standard arcade lever. This changes the action slightly.
Personal rating: A
Note that there is nothing special about the Namco stick in particular and the Hori Fighting Stick PS and SS have near identical parts, or in some cases are arguably superior. I recommend the early revision Hori Fighting Stick SS which used Matsushita Switches and has the ability to have a PS1 connector soldered to the board to make a dual-system stick.
Who had It was a reddit all along fro April?
I like this but can I swap the joystick topper? I have big hands and ball tops are too small. I need bat tops.
I would assume so, not many levers have a fixed top, worst case you just wire in a jlf
This is the one. The USB version has all Seimitsu parts, even.
MAS obviously
The one that works best for the game I'm playing.
The problem here is you're calling a fightan stick an "arcade stick"
There's no such thing as a "fight stick".
Well if you mean ITT you're correct. At least not until you posted it.
If you mean your silly made up terms are more real than someone elses silly made up terms then, no. All the silly terms that silly children make up are equally silly.
go frick yourself
Obese amerimutt detected.
bot post
He's not wrong.
I bought this on release when new from JP, still in completely perfect condition.
Without doubt the best stick I’ve ever owned.
I make my own sticks because I'm a cheap Black, I only play using Retroarch on my PC, and I use industrial materials (no 3D printed homosexual stuff)
post pics
still waiting on those pics
I make my own because I can, and do it better than any of the mass produced shit. Also because people are willing to pay good money for custom made stuff done by someone who doesn't need to watch a youtube to learn how.
Most 3Dprintgays are vile cringe. But there's nothing wrong with the technology. I 3D print a lot of stuff, especially where functionality what matters.
>cheap
>make my own
>better than mass produced
>industrial materials
I swear to god if you post a pic of a plexi stick
Who are you quoting?
Let's see a photo.
I don't use one because my right hand needs to be in a similar position to the one when I'm writing on a keyboard or using a mouse, and I do those things a lot. If I add an arcade stick on top of that, that's a sure way to develop arthritis. So I just play fighting games with a controller.
>So I just play fighting games with a controller.
AKA a sure way to get a RSI on your thumb
Better than getting RSI on my entire wrist.
You would think that would be the case but my hands actually feel better when I use my arcade stick for a few minutes. The movement is different, somehow it exercises the hands in a way that provides some relief from the arthritis.
TE1 is pretty solid too but the sides and original balltop on mine have yellowed. The slant on the SE also makes a difference.
can I get one of those cheap Mayflash sticks if Im only using it to emulate MAME? I dont wanna put down $140 for something I wont use that often
Why wouldn't you be able to?
Honestly the Mayflash sticks are pretty decent anyway, and their parts can be easily swapped if you want premium buttons/stick later.
should* I
>I dont wanna put down $140 for something I wont use that often
Maybe check ebay/gumtree for an old Madcatz, Hori, Razer etc. first. Several great 360/PS3 era sticks going for decent prices
Not a retro stick, but I use it for most all my retro arcade gaming and shmups.
I fricking love this thing. The steel base is great. Night weight (heavy that is) does not budge from it's place at all. It has a Noir button and stick layout so it has a comfortable bit of extra distance from the stick and the buttons. I don't even have huge hands but many sticks have everything just too close together.
my homemade one
Tempted to give you shit over the colors, but it is a cool design I have to admit with the book setup
colors where never planned but I think it came out okay, first I found the fake book in a dollar store and decided to build around that, then found the balltop marked wrong in a store so I got it for basically free and the dude that sold me the JLF threw in the blue buttons to sweeten the deal
Nice simple setup with the PS1 pad.
>all that jizz
Who had Drakon comes out as trans for April?
This is such a simple build but has a cool and unique concept. Even the book aspect makes it easy for maintenance. I would invest in some latches or magnets to keep it securely close. dont want to drop it and all the guts spill out, potentially damaging it.
>modding a book
You're disgusting. Don't you realize that a limited number of those books were made? That they aren't ever going to make any more? That the machines required to make that book cost millions of dollars and no one knows how to run them anymore. And you go and destroy it so you can display it on your table and take pictures for likes and upvotes. You should have just given it to someone who would have enjoyed it the way the writers originally intended. To be displayed on a bookself.
>Just pretending to be moronic
I'll take the bait
Pull your head out of your ass. Not everything is meant to be preserved.
>I'll take the bait
Damn. You must really be jonesing for a (You). Here you go.
Thank you
I swooped in on a Dreamcast Agetec stick I actually found in-person and enjoyed the hell out of it.
I have found these lever revisions within other HORI products.
You may identify the early revision HORI Fighting Stick SS by the standard Sega Saturn plug instead of a generic Hori plug.
RE: long-hinge vs short-hinge designs
The classic LS-32 and LS-40 arcade levers have long-hinge designs. This means that the microswitch has a long hinge which stick out past the length the switch. This is said to allow the user to have finer and more even control of exactly when the switch is engaged.
However, the short-hinge design appears in a great many console style levers as well as the Seimitsu LS-56, which is highly regarded as a very accurate lever. The LS-56 was the standard lever for Naomi-era arcade fighters.
Therefore I do not believe there is any downside to using it, it is a matter of personal preference and tuning to what you perform best with.
There is also the no-hinge design which is used by Sanwa in the JLF. The lack of hinges is replaced by a larger actuator.